Rohr Lake Backpacking Trip

November 9, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

Rohr Lake has been on my hiking bucket list for years. I was hoping to visit in the middle of the summer, but I had bad timing and there was a wildfire in Pemberton, so I opted not to go, hiking the Heather Trail in Manning Park instead. I felt like doing one last backpacking trip over the Thanksgiving long weekend and convinced Adriana to come out with me for a 1-nighter.

After a beautiful September, the weather switched right before our trip and the mountains got their first dusting of snow the night before. Adriana claims that winter camping is too cold, but she was still excited about camping at Rohr Lake in -5 degrees Celsius, so her logic doesn’t check out, but I’m glad she was willing to join me! We got up early on Saturday morning and drove to the trailhead, just past Joffre Lakes, arriving shortly before lunch. Since we knew it would be cold, we both came prepared, meaning that my pack was feeling a little heavier than I prefer as I was carrying my winter sleeping bag.

It was a nice day, with no precipitation, but it was overcast. We weren’t sure of the condition of the access road and since we only had one car, we parked at the very bottom. The road is in really good condition for the first kilometre and I recommend driving up to the main lot, but it’s not a difficult walk, so we didn’t mind the slightly longer hike. If you have 4×4, you will be able to drive another kilometre, but I wouldn’t attempt it without. The middle lot is the safest route.

Even with the extra kilometre, I only tracked 4.5km from the bottom lot to the lake. It’s not a long hike, but it does have 500m of elevation gain, so be prepared for a climb. Once you finish the road, the trail meanders through the forest. It’s a nice hike through the trees and while there was a little bit of snow on the ground, the trail was pretty much bare from other hikers. Eventually you hit the junction for the Wendy Thompson Hut. If you’re going to the hut, follow the trail left, it’s much less steep, but if you’re going to Rohr Lake, follow the trail right.

The trail continues through the forest and gets quite a bit steeper until you emerge in a meadow. It was nice in the shelter of the forest, but once we hit the meadow, we were exposed to the wind and it got quite cold. The last part of the trail can be deceiving because it doesn’t look very long, but it travels up through a very steep boulder field, so be prepared to slow down the pace. This was particularly challenging with snow. There wasn’t a lot of snow, but the trail was much harder to follow through the boulder field and we got off track several times, having to course-correct. While it had snowed overnight, it was above zero degrees when we were hiking up, so it was quite muddy through the boulder field where the snow had melted.

We reached the top after about 2.5 hours of hiking. There were quite a few day hikers, but we didn’t expect to see many other backpackers. There was a group of 3 guys when we arrived, but that was it. The view from the lake is beautiful, but in early October, it was very cold and windy. Our first order of business was to eat lunch and then set up camp as soon as possible so that we could change out of our sweaty clothes.

That was probably the hardest part of the trip. I don’t regret camping in the Fall because there’s not actually a lot of space at the lake to pitch a tent and I hear it’s a popular destination in the summer, so if you’re going in July or August, I recommend starting early. We looked for a sheltered spot to pitch our tent in the trees, but didn’t find one, so we set up by the lake instead. We were both quite cold as we ate lunch and wanting to warm up, I changed as soon as we got the tent up. I felt a lot better after that, but in general it was a lot colder than we were anticipating.

We spent the afternoon taking it easy and doing a little bit of exploring, but I felt pretty stuck because of the conditions. In the summer, we’d planned to hike to Mount Rohr, but that wasn’t really an option with the snow and limited daylight hours. We were happy to discover that the lake has both a bear cache and an outhouse, neither of which we were expecting, so that was a nice surprise. In our search for the outhouse, we stumbled upon a campsite hidden in the trees and went through the effort to move our tent up there instead. It didn’t have a view, but it was 100% the right decision. It was noticeably warmer out of the wind and I think we both slept better because of it.

We made supper and figured we’d be heading to bed fairly early, but the guys had gotten a campfire going and after heating water for our nalgenes to act as a hot water bottle, we joined them. The fire was incredibly warm and the guys were pretty entertaining, so we had a fun time chatting with them. We would have gone to bed super early otherwise and I think the campfire really helped set us up for success overnight. My body temperature was already quite warm and toasty when I crawled into my sleeping bag, and thanks to my hot water bottle which had been warming my bed, I stayed comfy and warm all night. I do have a -30 degree bag, so that is probably to be expected, but Adriana had a -18 degree bag and a sleeping bag liner and she was nice and warm too.

All things considered, I slept pretty well. I got up to pee once overnight and the clouds had cleared out and the stars were really putting on a show. I would have loved to stargaze for a little while, but it was much too cold and I quickly crawled back into the tent. The weather forecast showed it getting down to -5 degrees overnight.

We had a lazy morning, enjoying breakfast before packing up the tent and our gear to head back to the car. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, but it was still very cold. Where it had been very muddy along the waterfront the day before, everything was now frozen, including the edge of the lake. Honestly, I preferred the ground this way, much easier to walk on and much less messy. But again, I was glad we moved the tent to the forest because otherwise we would have been sleeping on ice all night.

Unsurprisingly, the hike down the boulder field was more challenging than the hike up. The trail was easier to follow on the way down, but now that all the mud had frozen, it was extremely slippery. There wasn’t any snow on the trail, but we wore our microspikes because otherwise it would have been very easy to take a slip on a frozen rock. There were quite a few day hikers coming in, some of which had microspikes, others that did not.

My criticism of this hike would be that I think it has become the overflow hike for Joffre Lakes. There were several large groups of people who did not seem equipped to be hiking at all. A few of them stopped to talk to us and ask for directions. They didn’t seem to have any idea where they were going and said that the park rangers at Joffre Lakes had suggested the hike. My hypothesis is that a lot of people show up to Joffre without the day pass and the rangers recommend Rohr Lake instead. I have mixed feelings about it. It’s very close, so it seems like an appropriate hike, but it’s a lot more technical than Joffre Lakes.

Once we got past the boulder field, the trail got much easier and we layered down, but it was still a bit challenging on the knees on the way out. I quite enjoyed the walk down the road though. You get a great view of Mount Matier on the way out and there’s a few deciduous trees along the road that had turned a beautiful shade of yellow. We got back to the car shortly after lunchtime and hightailed it into Pemberton to treat ourselves to burgers. I’d still love to come back and do this hike in the summer, but glad to cross it off my bucket list for now!

West Coast Trail: Darling River to Cribs

August 8, 2026August 18, 2026 / Maria / 1 Comment

Our strategy with the West Coast Trail was to avoid overwhelming ourselves. We had a few long days in our itinerary, but the goal was to intersperse them with more gentle, rest days. After a busy first day on the trail, involving a 4 hour shuttle ride and 14km of hiking, we planned to hike only 11km on Day 2.

It felt great to wake up on the sandy beach at Darling River. The clouds returned overnight, but it wasn’t raining and it was a cool overcast morning, which is very comfortable for hiking. Even though we only planned to hike 11 kilometres, we had to complete the first 9km before 1pm due to a tidal window.

Managing tides is definitely a big part of the West Coast Trail. As the name suggests, the trail is centered around following the coastline, and where possible, the trail will always follow the beach. There are some sections where there are impassable headlands and you are forced to follow the trail through the forest, and there are other sections where you cannot traverse the beach during high tide. In many cases, these sections have alternative re-routes through the forest, but in some sections, there is no re-route and if you miss the window, you have to wait.

On day 2, we had one section will a high tide cut-off and no re-route. So if we didn’t make it to Klanawa River Campsite by 1pm, we’d have to wait until 3pm. There aren’t a lot of sections like this, most of them have re-routes, and the sections without re-routes are generally only unavailable for a few hours during the very high tide.

We started our day with 3km of beach walking from Darling River, followed by 3kms in the forest. The final 3km before lunch was the tidally dependent section of beach walking. The goal was to start the final section by 11:30am. We were right on schedule, arriving at the beach around 11:15am and taking a short break before starting the beach walk. In general, I found the beach sections to be much easier than the forest. Sometimes beaches can be slow if you have to do a lot of walking across boulders, or cobble, or rocky shelves riddled with surge channels, but as a rule, they are easier to navigate than some of the muddy forest sections (wait until day 5).

The walk to Klanawa River was a little more technical, with some rocky shelves and beaches to navigate, but overall not too challenging and it only took us as hour to complete. Klanawa is a nice campsite on the beach, with a large river flowing through, but I don’t think it gets a lot of campers because it’s only 2km away from the much more popular Tsusiat Falls, which was also our final destination for the day. We weren’t in a rush and took a break for an hour at the river to eat lunch and go for a swim.

The first of five cable cars is located at Klanawa River. I believe later in the summer, you can sometimes cross a large sandbar across the river, but we opted to take the cable car. Fortunately there was a group of 4 guys at the cable car at the same time as us and they offered to assist us across so that we could go in the same car. The cable cars have varying levels of length and difficulty. This one was particularly long and it would be challenging for us to pull ourselves across if we both went in the car at the same time, so we were planning to go one at a time. Since they offered to assist, we went together, resulting in a lot less work.

Once across the river, we enjoyed 2km of forest walking to the beach at Tsusiat Falls. Along the way we passed several viewpoints along the bluffs and were very lucky to spot several whales playing in the shallows! Adriana spotted the first one and then we noticed several more, including a mama and baby. I’m not sure what kind of whales they were, but my guess is humpback or grey. We watched them for a long time because they were quite close to shore.

Arriving at Tsusiat Falls, it’s a long downhill and several ladders to get to the beach. You cross the top of the waterfall about 10 minutes before you arrive at the beach and I advise filling up your water bladder at the river. There is no flowing water at the beach and the waterfall isn’t accessible, so your only option is the pool at the base of the waterfall where everyone swims. We didn’t know this at the time and we didn’t fill up our water. I didn’t want to hike all the way back up to the river later, so I ended up filling from the pool anyways, but I used two methods of water purification, filtering and chemical treatment. It wasn’t my favourite water source, that’s for sure.

Aside from the drinking water issue, Tsusiat Falls is one of the highlights of the trail for a reason! It’s incredibly beautiful and you get to camp right next to the waterfall along the beach. It already felt quite busy with campers when we arrived, but we got there at 3pm and a lot more groups continued to arrive after us, making it even more crowded. There’s a lot of space to set up tents, but it was definitely more people than I like to camp with and what Brandon always refers to as “tent city”. We did find a nice place on the beach to set up and it was really beautiful. Adriana claims it was her favourite spot, but I personally favoured some of the less busy sites more.

We started to observe a familiar pattern with the weather on the trail. For the first 4 days, we would awake to overcast mornings that would change to sun by mid-afternoon and stay that way into the evening. It made for really nice days because we had the cloud cover while hiking in the morning, but we got to enjoy the sun while relaxing at camp in the afternoon. The only issue was that it could get quite hot and there is limited shade on the beach.

We brought a tarp with us, which proved very handy, and we got into the habit of Adriana setting up the tent while I would set up the tarp. In my opinion, tarping is a real skill. If you have the right support structures nearby (i.e., trees), it can be really fun, but if you don’t have anything solid in which to attach the tarp, it can be very challenging. Tsusiat Beach was difficult, but I was able to build a reasonably functional shelter. By the time we got it set up, we were feeling overheated and took a break underneath to eat some snacks, but ultimately decided the waterfall was the best way to cool down.

I changed into my swimsuit and walked to the end of the beach to see the waterfall. I’d swam at Darling River the previous day and it had been quite cold, as was the swim at Klanawa River. But I was delighted to discover that the pool at the base of Tsusiat Falls was the warmest freshwater on the trail! It was really refreshing and we were able to linger in the pool for a while. There’s a large rock near the edge of the waterfall and we hung out there, taking turns to swim out under the spray. We met 3 women on the bus that were on a similar itinerary as us and we spent some time with them at the pool (credit to them for the photo above of us on the rock). It was one of the most enjoyable moments on the trail.

It was really nice to arrive at Tsusiat Beach at 3pm, because unlike the first evening, it gave us lots of recovery time before the next day. We had to do a longer distance on Day 3, due to a lack of campsites, so it was nice to have lots of time to take it easy. We enjoyed our dinner and then collected some firewood. Since it was late June, the province wasn’t yet under a fire ban. We weren’t sure how long that would last or how long we would continue to get nice weather, so we took the opportunity to enjoy a campfire. Carolyn introduced me to the one match challenge a few years ago, where you try to light your campfire using only one match. I’ve really taken it to heart and I was successful in getting our fire started with just a single match, of which I’m pretty proud!

Day 3 was our longest day, distance wise. We got into a habit of waking up at 7am and starting our hike by 9am, which I thought was pretty reasonable, but seemed to be late for everyone else. People were often leaving by the time we got up and it wasn’t uncommon for us to be some of the last people to leave. There were two other groups that were of the same mindset as us, the 3 women from the bus, and the group of guys that helped us across the cable car. As a result, we got to know both groups over the course of the week. Although the women ended up increasing their pace at some point at we didn’t see them anymore after day 4.

We had to hike 17km, which was the minimum distance for the day. There’s not a lot of campsites in this section of the trail, so a lot of people stay at both Tsusiat Falls and Cribs Beach because the only other option is to stay in the cabins at Nitinat Narrows, which are more expensive and have limited capacity. Nitinat Narrows is located around the midpoint of the trail and requires taking a very short water taxi across the water. The crossing is managed by the first nations in the area, the Nitinat, who also manage the crab shack and cabins located on the other side of the crossing.

We had to hike ~8km to get to the crab shack, but it’s a quintessential part of the trail and hikers are usually thrilled at the opportunity to have a fresh cooked meal in the middle of the trail. The day started with a long beach walk, during which we got to pass through a sea tunnel at Tsusiat Point since the tide was low. It was really cool, but we did cut it pretty close to the tidal cut-off and the water was nipping at our heels as we went through. The beach was followed by a larger forest section, though you could pop in and out of the forest to hike along the beach in a couple sections. We opted to stick mostly to the forest in this area, which had lots of nice beach viewpoints.

We were very excited when we finally arrived at Nitinat Narrows, which has some of the bluest waters. It’s probably less than 100 metres to cross the channel, but we got to ride with a very nice man named Sam and his very calm dog. But mostly we were excited about the crab shack! In the end, I didn’t actually end up ordering crab because they also had halibut and ling cod, so we opted to get the ling cod with a fully baked potato instead. It was really yummy and not as messy as the crab, but if I ever go back (unlikely), I think I’ll opt for the crab next time.

It was really nice to take a break, but we still had 10km to go after lunch, so after massaging our feet and stretching our legs, we returned to the trail. There’s another large forest section after the crab shack, but it had a lot of boardwalk that was still in reasonably good shape, so it made for a quick walk. The West Coast Trail has a reputation for being very muddy and challenging in the forest. We definitely encountered this in a few sections, but overall, the forest walking isn’t too bad on the north side of the trail. It’s much worse on the south side because a lot of the old trail infrastructure and boardwalks are deteriorated to the point that they’re now a hazard rather than a help, but up to this point the forests were still quite manageable.

We stopped at a bluff viewpoint and ended up spotting some more whales! These ones were further out, but we could see them spouting and we were really excited when we got to see one of the whales dive, meaning we got to see its tail. Eventually you arrive at a bridge where you can cross the Cheewhat River, then it’s a nice straight path through the forest to return to the coast. We arrived at Clo-oose Bay, which is a giant golden sand beach that ended up being one of my favourite beaches of the entire trail. It was hot and sunny when we arrived, so we decided to stop for a snack break. The water looked so inviting in the sun, so I convinced Adriana to take our shoes off and we ran into the water to soak our feet before continuing on.

If you time it right with the tide, you can walk along the beach pretty much the entire way to Cribs Beach, but we did not, so we had to go in and out of the forest. We were able to walk most of the way to Dare Point, after which we opted to take the re-route through the forest for a couple of kilometres. The trail returns to the beach at Dare Beach, where we took another break and I ate my second lunch, which was taco salad for taco Tuesday. At this point in the trail, I felt like we were constantly ravenous. Usually it takes me a few days on trail before I get hiker hunger, but both Adriana and I had it from the very beginning. We were honestly worried we were going to run out of snacks and were cognizant of rationing them, but fortunately our hunger did even out later in the trail and I had enough food for the whole trip.

By the time I finished second lunch, the tide had receded enough that we could follow the beach to our final destination at Cribs Creek. There were several rocky shelves and some boulders along the way, which made for a more interesting hike. The only challenge is that at the end of the trail, when you arrive at Cribs Beach, you have to walk out on the rocks partway into the ocean before you can find a place to climb down to the beach. It’s a rock shelf that acts like a natural breakwater for the beach. This was problematic because, while the tide was low enough, the waves were crashing against the rocks on the other side of the breakwater. It was too close for comfort for me, so we stuck to the shallow edge of the rocks in case a big wave came up that could knock us over, and we got out of there as quickly as possible. It ended up being fine, but it wasn’t our favourite.

We were some of the last people to arrive at Cribs Beach for the night and similar to Tsusiat Falls, there was lots of space for tents, but it was very busy. We ended up setting up camp on the far end of the beach, which meant it was quite a walk to the outhouse and bear cache, but there was only one other tent nearby. It was much later in the day when we arrived at Cribs, but it was still hot, so I tried to get another tarp shelter up and failed miserably. It was probably one of my worst tarping jobs. I was able to hide under it for sun shelter, but if tested, it would not have stood up to rain.

I like Cribs Beach, but it felt like we didn’t spend a lot of time there. By the time we set up camp, filtered water, and cooked supper, the sun was already setting. We chatted with our neighbours for awhile, a couple from Saskatchewan. They were nice, but we decided the man lacked some serious judgement. He’d convinced his partner to hike the trail with him and it was both her first backpacking trip and her first time camping ever! To make matters worse, they had a very aggressive itinerary and she was not having a good time. I know the West Coast Trail is a world renowned trail, but most of the people we met were local to BC. Even though it’s popular, it’s a very challenging trail and it’s not a good idea to under-estimate it. It’s definitely not a trail I would recommend for first time backpackers or campers.

At this point, we were more than halfway through the trail, but not halfway through the itinerary. The trail was about to get a lot more technically challenging, and we encountered some pretty adverse weather conditions on day 5. Tune back in next week to read about it!

10 Easy Day Paddles near Vancouver

July 28, 2026 / Maria / 1 Comment

The main focus of this blog is definitely backpacking, which is one of my favourite summertime activities. But I also spend a lot of time kayaking and have slowly been working my way around the easy paddling trips near Vancouver. My husband and I own two sea touring kayaks and for this post, I decided to compile some of our favourite day trips near the lower mainland! It’s easy to rent boats for a lot of these trips, but there are a few where it’s easier if you have your own.

Jug Island / Twin Islands

A kayaker paddles towards Jug Island on a sunny day with calm waters in Indian Arm. Jug Island is located near Belcarra Regional Park in Vancouver, BC.

Jug Island is by far our most frequented kayak day trip. It’s located near Belcarra Regional Park and can be accessed from either Belcarra or Deep Cove. We always choose Belcarra since we live in Coquitlam, but it’s a ~5km round trip from both starting locations. There’s a large beach where you can land your boat and an outhouse, so it’s a nice place to stop. It usually takes us ~45 minutes to paddle there from Belcarra and we’ll often take a break and then continue on to explore Bedwell Bay or Twin Islands. Twin Islands makes for a longer day, as it’s a ~9-10km paddle, but it’s very beautiful there and it’s fun to swim from the south island. If you’re renting, you can choose from Deep Cove Kayaks or Takaya in Belcarra. Alternatively, you can also rent from Cates Park for a slightly longer paddle.

Barnet Marine Park / Rocky Point

A female kayaker wears a lifejacket and holds a paddle while smiling next to her yellow Boreal storm kayak on the rocky beach of Barnet Marine Park with the ocean and mountains in the background in Burnaby, British Columbia, Canada.

There are a few options for where you can paddle from Barnet Marine Park. I usually just use it as an alternative access point for Jug Island since it’s located in Burnaby and is sometimes a closer drive, but you can also paddle between Rocky Point and Barnet Marine from either location. Rocky Point is located in Port Moody and is a very easy access point. The annoying thing about Barnet Marine is that they now limit parking to 4 hours, which is difficult if you’re looking to do a longer trip. If you leave from Rocky Point, parking is also a challenge in the summer, but it’s easier to rent boats from Rocky Point than Barnet.

Buntzen Lake

Buntzen Lake is located super close to the city, in the town of Anmore. It’s the perfect place for beginners because the lake isn’t that long, but it’s big enough to make for a nice paddle to the end and back, roughly 10 kms. Plus you can also explore around the river and hang out on either end of the lake. A day pass is needed in the summer, which is free, but must be obtained 2 days in advance from BC Hydro. There are often canoe rentals available along the south beach.

Whytecliff Park

Whytecliff Park is located in West Vancouver near Horseshoe Bay and is one of many paddling options in West Vancouver. You can launch your boat from Whyte Cove, which is located in the park, or from Batchelor Bay or Horseshoe Bay. If you don’t mind a longer paddle, you could also launch from Eagle Harbour, at the beach next to the yacht club. There are no rental options from this location that I am aware of, but it’s a fun place to explore. Watch out for ferry traffic if you are paddling around Horseshoe Bay.

Bowen Island

I haven’t actually done this trip myself, but I’ve heard Bowen Island is great for kayaking. The best option is to walk on the ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Bowen Island and rent boats from Snug Cove on the other side. From here, you can paddle around the edge of the island. I recommend heading north as there are more beaches to land at in this direction. I believe more experienced paddlers will cross from Horseshoe Bay on their own, but I don’t recommend this.

Keats Island

Keats Island is a great destination from Gibsons. You can launch from the marina and paddle across the straight to Keats Island. Follow the coast north past the Shelter Islets until you reach Plumper Cove Marine Park, which is a great place to hang out for the day or to camp overnight. It can be windy crossing the straight, so I recommend doing this trip early in the morning. Rentals are available from the marina in Gibsons.

Widgeon Creek

Widgeon Creek is a very popular summer paddling destination in Pitt Meadows. Park at the main lot on Pitt Lake and paddle across the Pitt River to Widgeon Creek, which is a leisurely 6km paddle to the campsite. From there you can do a day hike to Widgeon Falls. This area is very busy in the summer, but head out in April or May to avoid the crowds. Be careful crossing the Pitt River, which can have strong currents, and leave early to avoid the wind. You can rent boats from Katzie in the summer, or through independent operators that deliver the boats to the lot.

Alouette Lake

Golden Ears Park is most popular for paddlers in the Gold Creek area, especially for SUP. But I think all of Alouette Lake is a great option for paddling. The easiest location to launch from is the boat launch at South Beach, and then you can head north on either shore of the lake. But pick one or the other because it gets windy on the lake and it’s not easy to cross back and forth. I regularly like to go out for a few hours and paddle up to Gold Creek and back. You can usually rent canoes on South Beach in the summer.

Harrison Lake

Harrison Lake is somewhere that you need to be really careful paddling, but can make for a fun trip in the right conditions. It can be very windy at the lake, so my recommendation is to stick to early morning paddling and stay near to the edge of the lake. We camped at Bear Creek on a rainy weekend in June and stumbled into premium kayaking conditions. It was dead calm on the water and mystical with the cloudy skies. But exercise caution on a nice day.

Lightning Lakes

Lightning Lakes is a pretty safe place to kayak and is incredibly scenic. It’s located in E.C. Manning Park, east of Hope, and comprises two lakes connected by a small creek. It is possible to navigate between the two lakes, but it is narrow, so exercise caution. The views are beautiful and there’s no power boats, so it’s a great place to explore and enjoy the water and the mountains.