Rohr Lake has been on my hiking bucket list for years. I was hoping to visit in the middle of the summer, but I had bad timing and there was a wildfire in Pemberton, so I opted not to go, hiking the Heather Trail in Manning Park instead. I felt like doing one last backpacking trip over the Thanksgiving long weekend and convinced Adriana to come out with me for a 1-nighter.
After a beautiful September, the weather switched right before our trip and the mountains got their first dusting of snow the night before. Adriana claims that winter camping is too cold, but she was still excited about camping at Rohr Lake in -5 degrees Celsius, so her logic doesn’t check out, but I’m glad she was willing to join me! We got up early on Saturday morning and drove to the trailhead, just past Joffre Lakes, arriving shortly before lunch. Since we knew it would be cold, we both came prepared, meaning that my pack was feeling a little heavier than I prefer as I was carrying my winter sleeping bag.
It was a nice day, with no precipitation, but it was overcast. We weren’t sure of the condition of the access road and since we only had one car, we parked at the very bottom. The road is in really good condition for the first kilometre and I recommend driving up to the main lot, but it’s not a difficult walk, so we didn’t mind the slightly longer hike. If you have 4×4, you will be able to drive another kilometre, but I wouldn’t attempt it without. The middle lot is the safest route.
Even with the extra kilometre, I only tracked 4.5km from the bottom lot to the lake. It’s not a long hike, but it does have 500m of elevation gain, so be prepared for a climb. Once you finish the road, the trail meanders through the forest. It’s a nice hike through the trees and while there was a little bit of snow on the ground, the trail was pretty much bare from other hikers. Eventually you hit the junction for the Wendy Thompson Hut. If you’re going to the hut, follow the trail left, it’s much less steep, but if you’re going to Rohr Lake, follow the trail right.
The trail continues through the forest and gets quite a bit steeper until you emerge in a meadow. It was nice in the shelter of the forest, but once we hit the meadow, we were exposed to the wind and it got quite cold. The last part of the trail can be deceiving because it doesn’t look very long, but it travels up through a very steep boulder field, so be prepared to slow down the pace. This was particularly challenging with snow. There wasn’t a lot of snow, but the trail was much harder to follow through the boulder field and we got off track several times, having to course-correct. While it had snowed overnight, it was above zero degrees when we were hiking up, so it was quite muddy through the boulder field where the snow had melted.
We reached the top after about 2.5 hours of hiking. There were quite a few day hikers, but we didn’t expect to see many other backpackers. There was a group of 3 guys when we arrived, but that was it. The view from the lake is beautiful, but in early October, it was very cold and windy. Our first order of business was to eat lunch and then set up camp as soon as possible so that we could change out of our sweaty clothes.
That was probably the hardest part of the trip. I don’t regret camping in the Fall because there’s not actually a lot of space at the lake to pitch a tent and I hear it’s a popular destination in the summer, so if you’re going in July or August, I recommend starting early. We looked for a sheltered spot to pitch our tent in the trees, but didn’t find one, so we set up by the lake instead. We were both quite cold as we ate lunch and wanting to warm up, I changed as soon as we got the tent up. I felt a lot better after that, but in general it was a lot colder than we were anticipating.
We spent the afternoon taking it easy and doing a little bit of exploring, but I felt pretty stuck because of the conditions. In the summer, we’d planned to hike to Mount Rohr, but that wasn’t really an option with the snow and limited daylight hours. We were happy to discover that the lake has both a bear cache and an outhouse, neither of which we were expecting, so that was a nice surprise. In our search for the outhouse, we stumbled upon a campsite hidden in the trees and went through the effort to move our tent up there instead. It didn’t have a view, but it was 100% the right decision. It was noticeably warmer out of the wind and I think we both slept better because of it.
We made supper and figured we’d be heading to bed fairly early, but the guys had gotten a campfire going and after heating water for our nalgenes to act as a hot water bottle, we joined them. The fire was incredibly warm and the guys were pretty entertaining, so we had a fun time chatting with them. We would have gone to bed super early otherwise and I think the campfire really helped set us up for success overnight. My body temperature was already quite warm and toasty when I crawled into my sleeping bag, and thanks to my hot water bottle which had been warming my bed, I stayed comfy and warm all night. I do have a -30 degree bag, so that is probably to be expected, but Adriana had a -18 degree bag and a sleeping bag liner and she was nice and warm too.
All things considered, I slept pretty well. I got up to pee once overnight and the clouds had cleared out and the stars were really putting on a show. I would have loved to stargaze for a little while, but it was much too cold and I quickly crawled back into the tent. The weather forecast showed it getting down to -5 degrees overnight.
We had a lazy morning, enjoying breakfast before packing up the tent and our gear to head back to the car. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, but it was still very cold. Where it had been very muddy along the waterfront the day before, everything was now frozen, including the edge of the lake. Honestly, I preferred the ground this way, much easier to walk on and much less messy. But again, I was glad we moved the tent to the forest because otherwise we would have been sleeping on ice all night.
Unsurprisingly, the hike down the boulder field was more challenging than the hike up. The trail was easier to follow on the way down, but now that all the mud had frozen, it was extremely slippery. There wasn’t any snow on the trail, but we wore our microspikes because otherwise it would have been very easy to take a slip on a frozen rock. There were quite a few day hikers coming in, some of which had microspikes, others that did not.
My criticism of this hike would be that I think it has become the overflow hike for Joffre Lakes. There were several large groups of people who did not seem equipped to be hiking at all. A few of them stopped to talk to us and ask for directions. They didn’t seem to have any idea where they were going and said that the park rangers at Joffre Lakes had suggested the hike. My hypothesis is that a lot of people show up to Joffre without the day pass and the rangers recommend Rohr Lake instead. I have mixed feelings about it. It’s very close, so it seems like an appropriate hike, but it’s a lot more technical than Joffre Lakes.
Once we got past the boulder field, the trail got much easier and we layered down, but it was still a bit challenging on the knees on the way out. I quite enjoyed the walk down the road though. You get a great view of Mount Matier on the way out and there’s a few deciduous trees along the road that had turned a beautiful shade of yellow. We got back to the car shortly after lunchtime and hightailed it into Pemberton to treat ourselves to burgers. I’d still love to come back and do this hike in the summer, but glad to cross it off my bucket list for now!



























