Hiking Zupok Peak

February 14, 2026January 13, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

Zupok Peak is a little bit off the regular beaten path, located on Highway 5 in the Coquihalla Summit Rec Area. It’s often paired with other peaks, like Ottomite Peak, Llama Peak, and Alpaca Peak. Ottomite Peak is a great option for snowshoeing and snow camping in the winter because it’s fairly short and stays in simple terrain, but I wouldn’t recommend any of the other peaks in snowy conditions because they go into challenging avalanche terrain, so stick to summer and fall when visiting those.

Me and Brandon have a tradition of going on a big hike every Thanksgiving weekend, and we picked Zupok Peak for our 2025 Thanksgiving hike. It was still early October, so we thought we might need microspikes for a small amount of snow, but were surprised to discover that the peak had gotten a dump of snow the night before we hiked the trail. So despite gorgeous sunny conditions on the day we visited, there was quite a lot of fresh powder on the trail.

The trail starts at the Zopkios Rest Area in the Coquihalla Summit Rec Area. You can park at the end of the lot and walk over to the west side of the washroom to access the trailhead. It’s a fairly well established trail, but it’s not very popular. Needle Peak and Flatiron, which are located on the other side of the highway, draw most of the crowds in this area, with Zoa Peak being the next most popular trail after those.

It’s a nice walk through the forest as you head towards Ottomite Peak. There is one river crossing and the bridge is in pretty rough shape, so take your time. There was snow along the entire trail, but it wasn’t very deep at lower elevations. Our biggest problem was that it was extremely cold. Usually I don’t need to layer up too much while hiking, even in winter, but on this particular day it was very chilly!

After ~3km of hiking along relatively flat trail, you will reach a junction to Ottomite Mountain. If you go in the winter or during snowy conditions, I recommend just visiting Ottomite and skipping the other peaks due to potential avalanche hazards. There’s a nice view from Ottomite and the trail is wide and still very easy to follow. Since it was the first snowfall of the season, we continued on towards Zupok Peak.

From here, the trail became harder to follow in the snow. There was one group that had started ahead of us, so they were breaking the trail. Once you start the ascent to Zupok, there’s markers on the trees that you can follow, but if the other group hadn’t broken the trail to the base of Zupok, it would have involved a lot more route finding for us. Instead, we were able to just validate the track using GPS to make sure we were on the right track.

After the junction to Ottomite, it’s ~2km to the summit of Zupok. It doesn’t sound like a lot, but this part of the trail gets really steep and it’s a big slog to climb up to the summit. You climb ~500m of elevation in 2kms, so be prepared for a steep grade! Most of the trail is through the trees, but there is one nice viewpoint halfway up. Near the summit you pop out of the trees for an incredible view of the area. In the summer, I think the trail would be a lot easier to follow, but it was a bit of a struggle in the last 300 metres to the top. The snow was much deeper on the summit (knee deep) and it was very windy, so we were pretty cold.

When we started the day, we planned to continue to Llama and Alpaca Peak, which looked fun since you get to walk along the ridge after Zupok, but that plan was quickly abandoned when we got to the summit. We only had microspikes and it was evident that we would need snowshoes along the ridge. Plus, it was just too windy and cold, so we quickly amended the plan to eat lunch at the summit and then turn around.

If you visit on a nicer day, I’d definitely check out the other peaks, but be prepared for the hike to still be fairly strenuous. You have to climb down Zupok Peak, only to immediately climb up Llama Peak (and then repeat again for Alpaca Peak), so you do still expend a lot of energy on each ascent. Plus, you’re in the alpine the entire time, so on a hot day, be cognizant of the exposure and sun protection.

We stopped for a quick lunch and Simmer got herself in a bit of a pickle. She wanted to put on her snowpants, but she didn’t want to take off her boots because her feet were so cold. She accidentally put them on backwards and then got stuck in them trying to reverse them with her large boots on! So we had a good laugh at her before snapping a few photos and heading back down the mountain.

We didn’t spend much time on the summit and we hiked back down to the base of Zupok pretty quickly. It was like a different world down there. There was no wind and the sun was out, so we were able to take a proper break to warm up. Brandon decided to build a snowman to stand guard at the mountain base. Otherwise, it was a pretty quick hike back to the car and we continued back to Hope for a proper meal.

I thought the view from the top of Zupok was beautiful, but this is a pretty challenging hike. I don’t think I’d be in a rush to re-do it because the hike up is such a slog, but I would love to explore the ridgeline on a less snowy day. I have heard that Fall is a good time because the shrubs along the top change colour and it’s not too hot along the exposed ridge, but obviously we were a bit too late in the season on this occasion, so early September might be the sweet spot!

The Ultimate Guide to Snowshoeing near Vancouver

February 7, 2026February 6, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

Hiking in Vancouver is definitely becoming less and less of a fair-weather activity. People want to be outside all year round, not just in the summer, and snowshoeing is a great way to do that! While going into the backcountry has inherent risks in every season, they are definitely increased in the winter. It’s colder outside, you have less daylight, trails can be harder to follow, and depending where you’re going, there’s the added risk of an avalanche. I’ve written an entire post on avalanche safety and my biggest recommendation is that, if you don’t have avalanche safety training, don’t go into avalanche terrain.

Even if you plan to stick to easy trails, without taking a course, it can be hard to know if you’re putting yourself in avalanche terrain or not, which is why I recommend for everyone to take an AST1 course. Did you know that popular winter trails like Pump Peak, Elfin Lakes, Hollyburn Mountain, St. Mark’s Summit, and Joffre Lakes all go through challenging avalanche terrain at some part of the trail? Just because a trail is popular, it doesn’t mean there is no risk.

The safest option is to take a course, but if that’s not in your budget right now, I’ve compiled a list of trails that are in simple terrain, so the risk is greatly reduced, though never removed! Always check the avalanche forecast and only go out if the avalanche rating is low or moderate.

Lower Mainland

Bowen Island Lookout – Located in Cypress Provincial Park, this is a great option for beginners. The trail is 4km round trip, with 125m of elevation gain and follows a staked trail. It leaves from the resort, you just need to pick up a free backcountry pass from the BC Parks Black Mountain Lodge (not available online, only self-registration on site). The trail hikes through the woods to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Bowen Island.

Dam Mountain and Thunderbird Ridge – Located on Grouse Mountain, take the gondola to the top and follow a 5km there and back trail up to the top of Dam Mountain. With over 300m of elevation gain, this is a more challenging trail, but it’s easy to add a walk along Thunderbird Ridge for another 1.5km once you make it to the top of Dam Mountain. Both trails boast incredible views of the city.

Dog Mountain and Dinkey Peak – Located in Mount Seymour Provincial Park, this trail is popular in all seasons. It’s a 5km there and back trail, with 150m of elevation gain to the Dog Mountain Lookout. The trail is in the forest, except for the city viewpoint at the end. Add another 1km if you want to add Dinkey Peak, which has fantastic views of the backcountry. In the winter, you will need a free day pass to visit the park, which can be obtained from BC Parks 2 days in advance of your visit. The walk from the parking lot to the trailhead adds an extra 1km each way.

Brockton Point – Located in Mount Seymour Provincial Park, this is a more challenging hike than Dog Mountain. The overall length is 5km there and back, but there is 250m of elevation gain, making it a steeper hike. The views from the top of Brockton Peak are incredible as you’ll be able to see both the city and the backcountry. The same day pass rules apply as for Dog Mountain.

The view of Cypress Mountain ski resort from Black Mountain in the winter along the snowshoe trail near Vancouver, BC.

Black Mountain – Located in Cypress Provincial Park, this is a 5km there and back hike that covers 300m of elevation gain, making it one of the steeper hikes on this list. Trail access is from the resort and the trail hikes through the forest along the edge of a ski run. The same rules apply as for Bowen Island Lookout, you must obtain a free backcountry pass from Black Mountain Lodge.

North of Vancouver

Brandywine Falls or Alexander Falls – These are beginner trails that often don’t need snowshoes (just microspikes, or sometimes just boots). Brandywine Falls is located off the Sea to Sky Highway on the way to Whistler. It’s a 1km there and back trail to see the waterfall, but if the gate to the parking lot is closed or there are no parking signs along the highway, you won’t be able to visit. Alexander Falls is a good alternative, which is located in the Callaghan Valley, off Callaghan Valley Road. The trail is 500m there and back.

A female snowshoer backpacks on the snowy trail to Elfin Lakes with the snow covered forest in the background in Garibaldi Provincial Park in BC.

Red Heather – Located in Garibaldi Provincial Park, this is one of the more challenging hikes to access. Red Heather has the same trailhead as Elfin Lakes and is located at the end of Garibaldi Park Road outside of Squamish. In the winter, you must have chains to travel the last 2km along the road, so be prepared to hike an additional 2km each way without them. The trail follows an old forestry road for 5km to the Red Heather Hut, with 400m of elevation gain. It’s a steady uphill, but it’s not challenging. This is one of the longer trails on the list, a total of 10km from the main parking lot.

Edwards Hut – Located in Tetrahedron Provincial Park on the Sunshine Coast, this is the hardest trail to access. Winter tires are a must along the forestry roads and chains may also be required pending the conditions. It may be necessary to park at the lower lot, which adds 1km to the trail in each direction. It’s 5km to the Edwards Hut, but under 100m of elevation gain. You can customize this trip, ending at Edwards Lake, or to do a loop trail around Batchelor Cabin. The total trail length is 10km from the upper lot. I have only done this one in the Fall.

Coquihalla Summit Rec Area

Falls Lake – This is a great beginner trail located just off the highway at the turnoff for Falls Lake Road. Falls Lake Road is not plowed in the winter, so you can park in the pull out and it’s a flat 4km there and back trail along the road to Falls Lake.

Zoa Subpeak – Located at the same turnoff to Falls Lake Road, this is an 8km there and back trail that covers 550m of elevation gain. The first 1 km of walking along the road is flat, but be prepared for a steep climb up Pipeline Road, followed by another steep hike through the forest. This trail isn’t staked, so be on the lookout for summer markers and be prepared with GPS. Don’t hike beyond the subpeak as the trail to the true peak passes through avalanche terrain. The best view is from the subpeak!

Ottomite Peak – Located at the Zopkios Rest Stop, this is an 8km there and back trail with 300m of elevation gain. This is an easier and less busy alternative to Zoa Peak. However, this trail is not staked, so make sure you are prepared with GPS navigation. Do not continue on the trail to Iago Peak as this will take you into challenging avalanche terrain.

E.C. Manning Park

Shadow Lake – Located at the Strawberry Flats parking lot, this is a 4km there and back trail across flat terrain that is popular among beginners. It’s shown on the park snowshoe map and I’m pretty sure it’s a staked trail. Hike through the forest to the edge of Shadow Lake and take advantage of the strawberry flats warming hut on the way back. Some people continue on to the 3 Falls Trail, but I don’t recommend this as it passes through complex avalanche terrain.

Lightning Lakes – Located at the Lightning Lakes parking lot, follow the trail around the first lake and/or the second lake. If the conditions are appropriate, you can even snowshoe across the lake itself, but make sure to return to the trail before the second lake as the river between the two lakes doesn’t normally freeze. You can customize the trail length to do one or both lakes and the trail is completely flat.

Similkameen River – Located at the Windy Joe parking lot, this is a there and back trail that hikes through the forest along the river. You can customize the length, hiking as far as you want and then turning around. There is a bridge 2.5km in that you can cross, but the trail on the other side of the river is cross-country ski only in the winter, so just return the way you came without crossing the bridge.

Poland Lake – Located at the base of the ski resort, this is a more strenuous trail and not recommended for beginners. Park at the base of the resort and follow signs for uphill travel along the long green ski run for 2km. Once you reach the top, you’ll see a sign for backcountry access and you can follow the trail for another 4km to Poland Lake. If staying overnight, you have to park at Strawberry Flats and hike from there. As a day trip, it’s 12km with over 500m of elevation gain.

Hiking the Alta Via 1: Coldai to Belluno

January 31, 2026January 30, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

After 6 days of hiking the Alta Via 1, we still had 1.5 days to go, but it definitely started to feel like the trip was winding down. We had 6 days of incredible sunny weather, but it was due to shift and there was a rainstorm moving in on Day 7. This caused me and Kristine to have to re-assess how we wanted to finish the trail.

At this point, it was late September and the rifugios were starting to shut down for the season. Our biggest issue on Day 7 was related to poor planning on behalf of the third party, Mac’s Adventure, which we used to book our hike. They didn’t realize that some of the rifugios would be closing earlier than expected that season and our planned stay at Rifugio Vazzoler was cancelled. In order to save the trip, we decided to combine the distance we’d do in two days into one and continue on to Rifugio San Sebastiano, which meant we had a 21km day with over 1300m of elevation gain (and 2000m of loss). We knew it would be a big day and the incoming rain storm put a dampener on our plans.

Most of the Alta Via 1 trail is located in the alpine, hence why the trail is known as the “high route”. Because it receives so many visitors every year, the trail along exposed rock is very eroded, meaning that it becomes very slick when wet. We were concerned about potentially dangerous wet conditions while having to cover so much ground, so we opted to take another alternate route to get to the next rifugio. (note: because of the rain, I don’t have a lot of photos from the last 2 days on trail, so enjoy some more photos of Lago Coldai first).

Instead of trekking 21km through the alpine, we opted to take a 5km detour down to the town of Pecol. This meant that we had to backtrack along the switchbacks from the previous day, and then take an alternate route through a ski resort to get to town. It wasn’t raining yet, but it was very cloudy and ominous, so I was glad we’d taken the opportunity to visit Lago Coldai the previous evening. After an uneventful hike down to the village, we treated ourselves to hot drinks and a sweet treat at a cafe while waiting for a bus.

Fortunately, Rifugio San Sebastiano is located right off the road, so we had to navigate two highways in order to get there. The first road was passable by bus, which saved us 8km of road-walking. But the second road didn’t have any transit options, so we were prepared to hike the remaining 8km and hope for a hitch along the way. We figured 8km of road walking in the rain was preferable to 21km of slippery trail walking.

It turns out that we’d be saved the entire road-walk. As we were waiting for the bus, two hikers saw us and asked where we were headed. Turns out, we were all headed to the same place. They were two parents hiking the trail with their adult children. The woman had injured herself the previous day and they had come to the same conclusion as us about bypassing the trail (though their children were still hiking it). They had already paid for a taxi all the way to San Sebastiano and generously offered for us to join them! So instead of spending all day road-walking, we ended up with a pretty easy drop off to the rifugio before noon. (a few more photos of Coldai below)

It was too early for us to check in, so we decided to head out for a little walk to see a bit of what we’d missed. It’s approximately 2.5km between Rifugio San Sebastiano and Rifugio Bruto Carestiano, which was also closed for the season. We had a pretty leisurely walk along the trail to the Refugio, which took about 2 hours, but of course, it started raining right when we got to the rifugio and continued for most of the hike back to San Sebastiano. Kristine had a few last moments with the cows in the area and then we had a late lunch while we waited to get into our room.

San Sebastiano had a different vibe than the other rifugios since it was located right on the road, but it was a nice place and we at least had spacious rooms and free showers. Kristine had a nap and I headed down to the bar to journal and enjoy an aperol spritz. There was one other hiker in our room and she joined me and we had a great chat for a few hours. She was visiting from Australia on her own and doing the entire trail, so we swapped stories about our travels and our experiences in our home countries.

We had a nice last night on the trail, but a very chaotic final hike out. The trail actually continues for another 35km to Belluno, which most hikers do over 2 more nights. But our plan had always been to do a shortened version of the trail, so our itinerary had us hiking out to the town of Agordo and then taking a bus to Belluno for the night. The challenge was that hikers that go to Agordo generally hike out via either Rifugio Vazzoler or Bruto Carestiano. In retrospect, the best way out for us would have been to hike the 2.5km back to Bruto Carestiano and go from there. But Mac’s didn’t provide us with any directions for this part of the hike my GPS showed a route further down the highway that looked like the shortest option, so we did that.

This was the first of two mistakes. I thought we were in for 1km of road walking to get to the trail, but when we arrived at the trail, it looked like it had been logged in previous years and we couldn’t find the trail. It looked like there was another junction further down, so we did another 3km of road walking to the village of Casen, where my GPS showed another shortcut to Agordo. This was where we made the second mistake, which wasn’t really a mistake, but caused us a lot of anxiety due to a very creepy dude on the trail.

In order to get down to the trail, we had to cross through a farm and then down through a narrow wooded trail before popping out on an old forestry road. This road was pretty wide and fairly easy walking, but before we got to that road, we passed an Italian guy in the woods. He passed by me and didn’t say anything, but then when he got to Kristine, he tried to explain to her in broken english that he would take her to Agordo in his car and then got fairly aggressive trying to turn her around to go with him (he lied to her and said he’d already talked to me and that I was following). She called out to me through the forest and I quickly backtracked and explained to the man that we were fine. He kept insisting that we didn’t want to hike the trail and I tried to clarify if the trail wasn’t passable. He said the trail was passable but too hard for us (wow, dude). He was giving off really bad vibes, so we managed to ditch him, but we were both feeling a bit shaken once we got to the forestry road.

Neither of us wanted to backtrack, but nor did we really want to keep going. I was really nervous about the condition of the trail further on. It was all downhill, so I didn’t want to have to backtrack again later. The trail ended up being totally fine, it was wide and a gentle downhill for 90% of it. It definitely saved us time from walking the winding road to Agordo, but I think the road would have been better for our sanity. It was like we were both waiting for this guy to pop back out of the woods and abduct us. I was seriously concerned that he knew where we were headed and I was worried he might be waiting for us at the end of the trail (the joys of being a woman).

We didn’t encounter a single other person on the trail, so it appeared to not be in frequent use, but it also had a ton of signs on it advertising the direction of a trail race that had occurred at some point in the past, so it’s clearly used for something. The trail did get narrower (and creepier) towards the end, the closer we got to town, but we eventually popped out of the woods onto one of Agordo’s town roads and immediately felt 100% better. So terrain-wise, the trail wasn’t a bad idea, it wasn’t hard (especially in comparison to the rest of the Alta Via 1), and it saved us time, but it wasn’t a nice way to end an 8 day trek, to which I’d really like to tell that man, F-you for ruining our final kilometres.

We walked into town and had the most delicious cheap gas station style pizza I’ve ever had, before walking to the bus station to catch a ride to Belluno. Things got a bit hilarious at this point because we didn’t realize we’d be taking the bus at the same time as approximately 500 high school kids. When the bus finally showed up, they all rushed it and Kristine and I were left feeling very overwhelmed. We did manage to get on the bus, but it was a long and crowded ride with our backpacks. The whole thing felt surreal and we had a good laugh that after escaping a potential abduction, we were going to die in a stampede of sweaty teenagers.

And that pretty much concluded our trek on the Alta Via 1! We had a nice hotel room in Belluno and treated ourselves to more pizza for dinner. I must profusely thank Kristine for inviting me to join her on this hike because I honestly loved the experience. I’m a bit of a sucker for punishment and love roughing it on a good wilderness hike, but I could definitely get on board with the hut to hut European experience every now and then! The trail was incredibly scenic and varied and overall, the huts were phenomenal. I feel like every experience on the Alta Via is different. In total, we hiked 100km of trail, with ~80km of AV1 trail and ~60km of the traditional route. It was such a cool experience and I would definitely do it again to add on some of the original route that I missed and to tag the last section of trail to Belluno. In conclusion, it was a 5-star experience for me and I feel so grateful to have had the opportunity!