14 Free Backcountry Campsites in BC

Welcome back to the second part of my 2-part series to help you get camping with minimal advance planning, in any season! Part 1 focused on permitted campsites (that don’t require reservations) and Part 2 focuses on unpermitted (free) campsites! 

Camping is incredibly popular in BC, especially near Vancouver. The popular campsites require reservations that release 4 months out and being coordinated to plan so far in advance can be a real challenge for people. It might seem like all the good campsites are booked, but there are lots of great options that don’t require advance bookings!

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Why do some campsites require a permit and others are free?

The simple answer is that a lot of free campsites are located on crown land or in BC recreation sites (also considered crown land). The land doesn’t have park status, so it generally receives limited maintenance or it is maintained by users and volunteers. As a result, free campsites are often more rustic than traditional permitted campsites. There are lots of campsites located on crown land that are privately managed, either by for-profit or non-profit groups, and those campsites will usually have a campsite fee to go towards ongoing maintenance, though some non-profits will fundraise for the upkeep of facilities, like on the Sunshine Coast Trail.

That said, there are still some free campsites located in provincial parks, especially the further you get from the lower mainland. I don’t know the exact reason why some campsites have permits and others don’t, but I think it’s likely related to the popularity of a park and how much maintenance the park gets. For example, I visited South Chilcotin Provincial Park last year for 6 nights and didn’t pay any camping fees, but the park is very remote, has limited infrastructure, and several of the places we camped were considered wild camping (no outhouse or bear cache). When sites become more popular, permits will often be introduced.

If you are visiting a free campsite that does not have bear cache facilities or an outhouse, it is absolutely essential to practice bear safety and leave no trace practices. You must hang your food or bring a bear bin. In addition, you must be prepared to dig catholes or use a wag-bag, and pack out your toilet paper, pads, and tampons. It is not acceptable to poop in the woods without burying it, or to leave your toilet paper around the backcountry. We are so lucky to have access to incredible backcountry in Canada and we need to respect it.

Campsites Near Vancouver

Hanging Lake

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Hanging Lake is located in Whistler, sharing a trailhead with the Rainbow Lake trail on Alta Lake Road. Rainbow Lake is Whistler’s water supply, and as such, it’s a protected watershed area, so you’re not allowed to camp there. But if you hike a few more kilometres over Rainbow Pass to Hanging Lake, you can enjoy a nice view from the pass and a relaxing night at the lake. It’s a 10km trail to the lake, but the real challenge comes from climbing 800m of elevation along the way. There’s a fair bit of space for tents at Hanging Lake and there is an outhouse and a bear cache. You can also access this trail from the Rainbow Madeley trailhead near Madeley Lake.

Tikwalus

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In my opinion, Tikwalus Heritage Trail is an underrated trail along the Fraser Canyon. To access it, you take Highway 1 past Hope until you pass Alexandria Bridge Provincial Park. The Tikwalus Heritage Trail has been used by indigenous peoples for generations, and in more recent history, it was used by fur traders. It’s only 6km along a semi-loop trail to the campsite, but you’ll climb almost 800m in elevation, so it’s steeper than Hanging Lake. Most of the trail is in the trees, but there are some beautiful mountain views from the campsite. There’s lots of space for tents, as well as an outhouse and a bear cache. There’s no water source directly at the campsite, so fill up at the creeks on the way up to save yourself having to backtrack.

Brunswick Lake / Deeks Lake

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Deeks Lake and Brunswick Lake are both located on the Howe Sound Crest Trail, but are accessible from the northern trailhead at Porteau Cove if you’re not doing the 30km thru hike from Cypress Mountain. Both lakes are beautiful and offer an easier alternative to the strenuous Howe Sound Crest Trail. It’s 6.5km to Deeks Lake (which is the smaller site) and 10km to Brunswick Lake, however there’s almost 1200m of elevation gain along the way. Most of the elevation gain is in the first 6.5km to Deeks Lake, making this part of the trail the steepest on my list. Of the two lakes, Brunswick is the most scenic and has more room for camping. It’s also important to note there are no facilities at either site, so be prepared to hang your food and dig catholes.

Flatiron

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Keeping in theme with the previous trails, the trail to Flatiron is just as steep, climbing over 800m in ~5.5km, with most of the elevation gain in the first 3.5km. It’s located in the Coquihalla Summit Recreation Area off Highway 5 and shares a trailhead with Needle Peak. The first section of the trail is a huge slog through the forest, but the views are incredibly rewarding. Once you pass the junction for Needle Peak, there’s a small lake where you can camp. You can also camp at the summit of Flatiron, but there’s no water source up there. There are no facilities at either site, so be prepared to hang your food and dig catholes.

Brew Lake

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Brew Lake is less steep than some of the other trails on this list, but still a big hike, covering 900m of elevation gain over 8.5km. However, if you have access to a 4×4 vehicle, you can reduce some of that distance along forestry roads. We parked along Brew Creek FSR, at the entrance to Branch 50, and hiked the entire trail from there, including 3.5km along other FSRs. This isn’t a very popular site, so it’s a nice place to go to escape the crowds. There are no facilities, so be prepared to hang your food and dig catholes.

Fairview Bay / Manzanita Bluffs

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We have finally arrived at some options that are not super steep! Both of these sites are located on the Sunshine Coast Trail, which has lots of possibilities for backpacking trips. The whole trail is 180km long, but there are lots of sections that can be done over a day or two. The campsite at Manzanita Bluffs, located on the north end of the trail, is especially beautiful. I also really like the campsites at Fairview Bay and Rainy Day Lake, located on the south end of the trail. All campsites along the trail have outhouses and most of them have bear caches or huts. They do not all have water sources, so plan accordingly. While these sites are free, I do recommend a donation to qPAWS if you opt to stay in one of the huts.

Campsites Accessible by 4×4 Vehicle

Tricouni Meadows

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Tricouni Meadows is a popular campsite located northwest of Squamish. The trailhead is located on Branch 200, off of Squamish River FSR. If you can make it all the way to the trailhead, the hike to the campsite is just over 3km, with 250m of elevation. However, there was a large wash-out on Branch 200 when I did this hike in 2022. If you park at the wash-out, it adds 3km to the trail. In 2022, some vehicles could get through, but I’ve heard it’s gotten worse, so play it safe. There are 3 lakes near the meadows, with the campsite located at the middle lake: Spearhead Lake. It’s not a large campsite, so I recommend getting there early. There are no facilities, so be prepared to hang your food and dig catholes.

Blanca Lake

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Blanca Lake is another campsite located northwest of Squamish. In general, I would say this road is in better shape than the road to Tricouni, but it’s further away. The trailhead is located off E300 on the Elaho Mainline. The trail is 4.5km, with almost 500m of elevation gain. It starts off pretty steep, but then levels out along the middle. The view from Blanca Lake is incredible and there is tons of space for camping. Give yourself extra time to explore around the alpine once you get to the lake. There are no facilities, so be prepared to hang your food and dig catholes.

Conglomerate Flats / Manson Ridge

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Both of these campsites are located on the HBC Heritage Trail that runs 70km between Hope and Tulameen. Manson’s Campsite is located on the Hope end of the trail (off Peers Creek Road), so you don’t need 4×4 to access this site, but if you want to access Conglomerate Flats for a night, then you need 4×4 to get the trailhead at Jacobson Lake Rec Site (off Tulameen FSR). Both sites are beautiful, though Conglomerate Flats is the more stunning of the two. It’s 6.5km and 600m of elevation gain to Manson’s Camp from the southern trailhead, and 2.5km and 150m of elevation gain to Conglomerate Flats from Jacobson Lake. Both campsites have outhouses and bear caches.

Winter Campsites

Falls Lake / Zoa Subpeak

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Both of these sites are located in the Coquihalla Summit Rec Area off highway 5. Falls Lake is a great site for beginners because you only have to snowshoe 1km along the road (which isn’t plowed in the winter) and 1km to the lake. Zoa subpeak is a bit more challenging as it’s 550m of elevation gain over 4km. Both trails are located in simple terrain, but make sure to stop at Zoa Subpeak – if you try and snowshoe all the way to the true peak, you will be entering challenging avalanche terrain. I’ve never actually been to Falls Lake, but I believe there is an outhouse. There are no facilities at Zoa Subpeak.

Ottomite Peak

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Ottomite Peak is also located in the Coquihalla Summit Rec Area off highway 5. The trailhead is at the Zopkios Rest Area. It’s a 4.5km trail with 300m of elevation gain to get to the summit. It was completely empty when I camped there, but the general area is popular among ski tourers, so you may see people along the trails for the day. The trail is in simple terrain, but always exercise caution – in general, I always recommend taking an AST1 course. It’s not a challenging trail, but there are no facilities.

Water Access Campsites

Widgeon Creek

A photo of a line of canoes on the shore of Widgeon Creek at the Widgeon Campsite in Pinecone Burke Provincial Park, with the mountains and trees in the background on a cloudy day in BC.

Widgeon Creek is located near the lower mainland and is extremely popular on summer weekends. It’s a ~5 paddle across the Pitt River and up Widgeon Creek to get to the campsite. You can rent canoes or kayaks at Pitt Lake. There are lots of campsites and great facilities, including a large bear cache and 2 outhouses. But I recommend getting their early on a nice weekend to beat the crowds. From the campsite, you can do a day hike to Widgeon Falls.

Twin Islands / Granite Falls

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Twin Islands and Granite Falls are two campsites located in Indian Arm, so they are very accessible from the lower mainland. As a result, they are very popular on summer weekends, attracting paddle boats and motorized boats. You can rent kayaks from Deep Cove. It’s only 5km to paddle to Twin Islands, so this is the easier campsite to access. You’re only allowed to camp on the north island, but it has an outhouse (no bear cache since it’s an island). Granite Falls is at the far end of Indian Arm and is an 18km paddle from Deep Cove, so you should be an experienced paddler if you want to do this trip. It has 2 outhouses and a bear cache, but it’s severely undersized. Be prepared for northern afternoon winds.

Nine Mile Point / Kunechin Point

A photo from Kunechin Point in Sechelt Inlet on a kayaking trip, with the water and mountains in the background on the Sunshine Coast in BC.

Nine Mile Point Beach and Kunechin Point Campsite are both located in Sechelt Inlet on the Sunshine Coast. There’s a kayak rental place at the end of Sechelt Inlet Road, where you can launch from. It’s ~6km to paddle to Nine Mile Beach and ~10km to paddle to Kunechin Point, but the latter involves crossing the arm of the inlet, which can get windy. Both are beautiful sites and have outhouses, but no bear caches.

Granite Falls Kayak Trip

I feel like summer gets shorter every year that I live in Vancouver, but my bucket list of summer activities only gets longer. I love kayaking, but the alpine backpacking season is so short that I often forget to schedule in kayaking adventures. I always go kayaking with Seth, and we can’t take our dog with us, so it’s hard to find someone to look after her every time we want to go out. But we celebrated our 5 year wedding anniversary in August, and I was determined to go on an overnight trip!

We’ve done lots of kayaking in Indian Arm, more recently known as Say Nuth Khaw Yum Provincial Park or Selilwet, which is located right in the middle of the lower mainland and easily accessible from both the North Shore and Belcarra. Our favourite day trip is to launch from Belcarra and paddle up to Jug Island and Ferrar Cove, but we’ve never spent an overnight in the Arm. There’s 3 campsites scattered along the route and I’ve wanted to paddle up to the end for many years. Twin Islands is located at the southern end and is the most popular site. There are 2 more BC Parks sites at the northern end: Berg’s Landing and Granite Falls. We’ve paddled to Twin Islands a few times, but I really wanted to get to Granite Falls at the far end of Selilwet.

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The first thing to be aware of is that this is an extremely popular trip. We planned it for a Saturday night, so we knew it would be busy with both kayakers and pleasure boaters (anything with a motor). If you’re able to go on a weeknight, I think it would be a much nicer experience. You can rent kayaks from either Deep Cove Kayaks or Takaya Tours in Cates Park. Deep Cove Kayaks seems to be the most popular option as they have a huge fleet and it’s a shorter paddling distance, but Takaya is also a great option to avoid crowded Deep Cove and support an indigenous owned company.

I wish we could start our trip out of Belcarra, which is the same paddling distance as Deep Cove and much closer to our home, but unfortunately there’s no overnight parking from Belcarra or Barnet Marine, so Deep Cove or Cates Park are the only options. Deep Cove gets insanely busy in the summer, so we got up really early on Saturday morning to beat the traffic. I dropped off Seth and the kayaks at the loading zone and then found parking. The nearby parking is 3 hours maximum, so it’s a bit of a walk, but it was relatively easy for me to find parking at 7:30am. It was insanely crowded when we returned the following day in the mid-afternoon, so definitely go early.

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We were on the water around 8:30am and Seth dropped a crab trap at the mouth of Deep Cove. Selilwet is a beautiful place to paddle, but the second perk of getting up early is that the conditions are much better for paddling in the morning. The Arm gets a notoriously strong southerly wind in the afternoon and it can get quite choppy. We had a really enjoyable paddle out of Deep Cove and ended up paddling ~7.5km to Thywates Landing before taking a break. There were lots of kayakers on the water, but most of them weren’t going further than Twin Islands. 

Another option for paddling is to stop at Jug Island or the campsite at Twin Islands, but both options require an open water crossing, which I usually try and avoid having to do too many times, so it depends what route you prefer. The thing I don’t like about paddling in the Arm is that there aren’t a lot of public rest locations. When the tide is low there are some places you can stop, but a lot of the beaches seem to be attached to people’s properties. In most cases, you can’t own the beach (unless your property is really old and you’ve been grandfathered into old bylaws), so you can pretty much stop wherever you want, but I’m never really sure and try to stick to public spaces. 

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Thywates Landing is a really great option on the west side of Selilwet. It’s a small beach, but it’s owned by Metro Vancouver Regional Parks, so it’s primarily meant as a stopping place for paddlers. There’s a short walk (100m) up to a little waterfall and pool, which is really nice. The water was still really flat by the time we got to Thywates Landing, so we only took a short break to take advantage of the optimal paddling conditions. We started seeing a few more paddlers heading up the Arm and the pleasure boaters increased throughout the day, stirring up wake.

We paddled another 7.5km to Berg’s Landing, which is the second campground owned by BC Parks. Along the way we passed Silver Falls, which is a real highlight going up the Arm. There’s lots of space at Berg’s Landing and there was only one other tent there when we arrived. I’m sure the campsite got busier later, but Granite Falls definitely seems to be the more popular of the two sites. We stopped at Berg’s Landing for lunch at noon, right around when the wind started to pick up. It’s another ~2km to Granite Falls (for 17km in total from Deep Cove). It was choppy for the last 30 minutes of paddling, but at least we had a tailwind!

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Granite Falls was already quite busy when we arrived at 1pm, but there is a lot of space for tents and we didn’t have trouble finding a site. As a kayaker, you’re never going to beat the people in motorboats, so leave early enough that you don’t have to fight the waves on the way up. There’s always going to be a bunch of novice paddlers that show up much later in the afternoon and evening, so just do your best.

Berg’s Landing is mostly a big field with some campsites around the edges and a big beach. Granite Falls is more popular because it has a bunch of campsites along the coast and it has a large freshwater source in the form of the waterfall cascading down from the mountain. I have visited Granite Falls once before by zodiac in June and there is a big difference in the water flow in the Spring and late Summer. When I visited in June, the Falls were a violent, rushing cascade of water, versus in mid-August when it’s much more of a trickle. There’s a nice pool at the bottom that you can swim in and there were a lot of yachters visiting for the day. There used to be a public wharf, but it’s gone now, so it’s a bit trickier for the pleasure cruisers to access.

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Granite Falls has 2 new outhouses and a bear cache. Unfortunately neither are really appropriate for this type of site. While Granite Falls attracts all kinds of campers, it’s a backcountry site that gets treated like a frontcountry site. By which I mean, it gets a lot of inexperienced campers and it’s not treated with the respect it deserves. I wanted to love the site – it’s very beautiful – but the other campers left me feeling frustrated. It’s a wilderness campsite that could easily be frequented by bears, but because it’s easy to access by motorized boat, it attracts a lot of party people and it gets treated like an urban picnic site. People bring in large coolers of food and beer and don’t bother to secure anything. I could easily see the public losing access to this campground in the future from misuse. 

For this reason, I didn’t think the facilities were appropriate. There are only 4 small bear bins and there were easily 50 people staying at the site on Saturday night. So even if people practiced bear safety, there still wouldn’t be enough space for everyone. Several groups were hauling in coolers of beer, which they left unattended all night. Hard shell coolers are not bear proof, so either leave them on your yacht or at home. We overheard another camper say to their friend, “We’re not worried about bears are we? There’s so many of us.” Please, it’s not about being worried about bears. Bear safety is about avoiding opportunities for bears to become food habituated, which almost always results in the death of the bear and sometimes, the closure of the site. 

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The outhouses were actually really nice. They’re the urine diverting outhouses with the conveyor belt pump. Unfortunately, no one seemed to have any idea how to use them and people were not pumping the belt after using it, so they quickly became clogged. Bless Seth, he tried for the better part of 20 minutes to unclog the toilet using a stick, but had no success. I think they just need a bit more educational info in the stalls. But this technology might be too advanced for the party people. To be fair – a lot of the people at the site were very respectful, but a few large groups can really ruin it. 

So I did leave this trip feeling a bit annoyed, but overall, I enjoyed the experience. Because of the paddling conditions, we arrived at the site early in the day and had lots of time to relax. We spent some time exploring the waterfall and we went for a swim in the ocean, which is really warm at this time of year. Seth took a nap in the shade and I read my book. It’s easier to bring fresh food when kayaking, so we had tahini yam and halloumi tacos for supper, which I had made the evening before. We went for a short evening paddle before sunrise, which is always a highlight for me. It was super warm since we were at sea level, and we went to bed early to prepare for an early rise.

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We had bad luck in that we got a surprise rain shower right when we were getting up at 6am. It didn’t rain a lot, but enough to make all our equipment wet while we were packing it up. We were on the water by 7:30am. It’s tiring to get up so early, but I do love having an early start!

We paddled on the west side of the Arm on the way in, so we decided to stick to the east side going back. There’s definitely more places to take a break on the west side, but the water was flat, so we were pretty fast and didn’t need a lot of breaks. We paddled 8km to Buntzen Bay and pulled out on a small rocky beach for a break. It’s not a public area, but the mountain gets really steep after that, so it was the last opportunity to pull out. You get to pass by two hydroelectric facilities, which are a neat feature of the Arm. The northern facility is still in use and draws water from Buntzen Lake via a large penstock. The southern facility is decommissioned, but is an interesting piece of architecture. It was 4.5km from Buntzen Bay to Twin Islands, where we stopped on the South Island for lunch.

The wind did start to pick up again after noon, but it was very manageable. We paddled to Raccoon Island and then crossed back to the west side to kayak into Deep Cove. I drank a lot of iced tea at lunch and it caught up with me at this point, so I had to do a hurried paddle into Deep Cove to use the washroom while Seth checked his crab trap. He got 6 crabs, but only 1 that he was able to keep. We’ve only caught dungeness crab in the past, so this was our first time catching rock crab. It was smaller, but still yummy! We paired it with some Newfoundland cod tongues at home, along with local corn and beets. 

We arrived in Deep Cove at 1pm. There were people everywhere and it was chaotic landing on the beach and moving our kayaks to the loading area. I had 3 cars fighting over my parking spot when I left and we had to load the kayaks really quickly (while also getting stopped every 3 minutes by people trying to take our spot, not realizing it was 15min parking). Overall, it was a fun trip and Selilwet is really beautiful, but I don’t think I’ll be in a rush to do it again. It’s one of the most accessible sea kayaking trips from Vancouver, but it’s a very different experience than, say, Desolation Sound or the Gulf Islands. Worth doing, but maybe only once.

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