San Josef Bay Backpacking Trip

May 7, 2025May 1, 2025 / Maria / 6 Comments

If you’ve been following my blog for awhile, you might be aware that I first attempted to visit San Josef Bay in 2020. I backpacked both the Cape Scott Trail and the North Coast Trail in June 2020, but thanks to a series of misadventures at the start of my trip, I had to cut San Josef Bay from the itinerary. A few years ago I saw San Josef Bay ranked on a list of the “most beautiful beaches in the world” and it’s been haunting me ever since that I still haven’t been there!

So this was a bit of a redemption trip for me. Over the Easter long weekend in April, I decided it was finally time to tackle San Josef Bay. It’s located on the far eastern coast of Vancouver Island and it is a journey to get there. I left Vancouver on Thursday after work with my husband, Seth, and our anxious Australian Shepherd, Sadie. We had a reservation on the 6:30pm ferry, which was absolutely necessary because the ferry sailings were already completely sold for the whole day by the time we arrived at the ferry terminal. Unfortunately, our sailing was delayed by almost 2 hours, meaning we didn’t get to Nanaimo until almost 10pm.

I’m a hyper-planner when it comes to trips, but this was one of the rare times where I didn’t have a booking for the night. I’ve been trying to embrace the unknown a little bit more and take advantage of FCFS and rec sites. We’d been hoping to drive to Campbell River before finding a place to sleep, but given the late hour, we drove ~30 minutes to Little Qualicum Provincial Park in search of a site instead. We were able to secure the second last campsite and quickly put up the tent to catch some sleep before continuing the journey in the morning.

We were up early to finish the 1 hour drive to Campbell River, followed by 2.5 hours to Port Hardy. Our friend Victoria was also joining us with her friends from Victoria, so she walked on the first ferry on Friday morning and they picked her up on their way north. They were a little bit behind us, so we stopped for a nice lunch at Cafe Guido in Port Hardy. It was an excellent choice because they also have a bookstore and artisan craft shop in the same space! So we picked up some souvenirs before finally meeting our friends and their Australian Shepherd, Daisy, to continue the journey.

We already had 4 hours of driving behind us, but we still had the most challenging part of the trip ahead – the Forest Service Road to San Josef Bay. Considering that Port Hardy is on the east coast of Vancouver Island and San Josef Bay is on the west coast, it’s pretty impressive that there’s a 65km gravel road extending the entire width of the island. Despite it being a gravel road, it’s not in terrible condition – you can do the entire drive in any vehicle, you don’t need 4WD or high clearance. That said, the road isn’t in great condition either! If you want to avoid the drive altogether, there is a shuttle that runs from Port Hardy.

The last time I did this road, Brandon was driving way too fast and got a flat tire 30 minutes in. This wouldn’t be the end of the world, but his mechanic had put the wrong lug nuts on his tires, so it left us entirely unable to change the tire. This devolved into a 24 hour expedition involving hitchhiking, sleeping on the FSR, and paying a mechanic to break all the lug nuts off. I really wanted to avoid any flat tires this time around, so we drove pretty slow. The first 30km of the road are in reasonable condition, but the last 35km have a continuous stream of potholes that make gaining any kind of speed risky. I’d say we averaged ~30km/h along the road, so it took us around 2.5 hours to get to the trailhead parking lot – with no flat tires!

From the parking lot, it’s a 3km hike along a well-maintained trail to San Josef Bay. Me and Seth backpacked, but Victoria and her friends had a very special “Swagon Wagon”, which they used to transport some more luxurious camping equipment! The first 1km of the trail is a shared route into the park, after which there is a branch. If you go right, you can hike 23km to the Cape Scott Lighthouse, or 60km to the end of the North Coast Trail. This is the trip I did in 2020. But if you turn left, it’s another 2km along a leisurely trail to San Josef Bay, one of the most beautiful beaches in the world!

The trail itself is gorgeous. We had a pretty late start, around 6:30pm, but it only took us an hour (even with the wagon) to hike through the forest to the beach. Along the trail, I was reminded why the north coast of Vancouver Island is such a special place. Like most of BC, it’s second growth forest, but you can still see lots of old growth trees scattered throughout. Somehow, these trees have withstood the test of time and it’s truly humbling to stand beneath their gigantic trunks, so I really enjoyed the walk to the beach. Although my shoulders were hurting – I also took advantage of the short distance to pack a few of my own luxury items!

The beach was surprisingly busy for mid-April, but not overly crowded. San Josef Bay consists of two beaches that are only connected at low tide (although there is a forest trail connecting them). The first beach is very large, so there were a steady amount of hikers camped along the back of the beach, but everyone was spread out and it didn’t feel too crowded. I can only imagine how much busier it must be in the summertime. When I visited in June, the parking lot was much busier than in April.

We set up on the main beach because we couldn’t get the wagon to the second beach. Most people were camping on the first beach and after visiting the second beach, I will say that there is much more limited camping space on that one. There’s more log jams at the back of the beach and the water comes closer to the forest at high tide, leaving limited space for tents. High tide is quite a way back from the forest on the first beach, so you can feel pretty safe camping there.

We were pretty late getting set up, so we enjoyed the sunset over the mountains while putting up our tents, and spent the rest of the evening enjoying a fire on the beach. We were able to collect firewood around the beach (never cut down live wood), but dead wood is in limited supply and I imagine it gets much harder to find later in the season. It rained earlier in the afternoon, so I definitely had my work cut out for me getting the fire started!

You never really get to sleep in when you go camping with a dog (they get up with the sun), but Sadie was more reserved than usual and let me sleep until our normal weekday wake-up time at least. It rained overnight, so my first order of business upon waking was to get a tarp set up. I put up one tarp and then Miranda put a second, so we had a nice tarp city ready for when the rain really started!

If you’ve ever been to the north coast of Vancouver Island, you know the weather is super unreliable! The fog loves to hang around the coast and it’s normal for the weather to oscillate between sun, grey, and rain multiple times a day, sometimes within the hour! I didn’t get a lot of rain when I hiked the North Coast Trail, but I didn’t get a lot of sun either. While visiting San Jo Bay in April, we got a little bit of everything all at once. It didn’t rain for any extended periods of time, but there was a pretty reliable cycle switching from rain to sun and back again, all day long.

It was dry during breakfast and we got ready to go for a beach walk, but then it started pouring, so we decided to wait it out. Low tide was at noon and the rain let up again around 11:30am, so we quickly got ready to go beachcombing. A lot of day hikers showed up around this time, presumably to explore the tidal areas. There’s a frontcountry rec site close to the parking lot, which I think is popular for campers that want to visit San Jo Bay, but don’t want to backpack.

Exploring the beach during low tide is really the highlight of visiting, so definitely plan your trip around it! When the tide drops, you can walk along the sand to the second beach. The low tide exposes a number of sea stacks and caves along the shoreline and you can walk on several of the islands, looking at sea creatures in the tidepools along the edges. We saw lots of sea anemones, sea stars, and crabs along the tide pools, as well as many other marine organisms that only Seth was able to properly identify. We had a great time exploring and ended up walking the beach for several hours!

Our companions took the wagon to the second beach, where firewood is much more plentiful, and me and Seth went in search of the freshwater source. The main consideration in camping on the first beach is that there’s no fresh water. My Gaia noted a water source on both ends of the second beach, but we opted for the source on the far west side. You do have to hike up into the woods for a few hundred metres and the trail is very muddy, but it’s a reasonably nice source – it’s just a little discoloured from the tannins, which I’m used to from Newfoundland. It was running pretty high because of the rain, so it might not be as nice in the dry season (if such a thing exists in this area).

Overall, it was a pretty low key trip and we mostly relaxed for the rest of the afternoon as the rain continued on and off. The downside of going camping in April is that it was pretty damp and chilly. I spent some time in the tent to warm up, and then later in the afternoon, Seth and I walked down to the opposite end of first beach to the estuary. I’m not sure if you can drink this water when the tide is going out, but based on my experience at other estuaries on the NCT, it’s probably very brackish. Though you could likely drink it if you walked much further upstream.

We had a lot of firewood for night 2, which was good because it rained a lot more. We got the campfire going and kept it pretty big for warmth. It sprinkled on us several times, but it was always short lived, so we never got properly wet. We caught a glimpse of the starts on our first night, but it was completely clouded in on our second night.

The rest of our crew took off pretty early on Sunday morning because they had to drive all the way home. Seth and I had an extra day, so we took our time packing down our tent and were rewarded with a beautiful blue sky view of the beach on the way out. It didn’t last long and was soon raining on us as we trundled through the forest, but the sun made a reappearance near the end of the trail, turning the trees the most beautiful shade of green as the sun peeked through the canopy!

So I finally redeemed myself from my first trip and made it to San Josef Bay! I do think it is worth the hype and would be keen to see what’s it’s like in more reliable weather. But I’m thrilled I can finally check it off my bucket list. Tune in next week to learn what Seth and I did with our last day in the backcountry, because the adventure didn’t end with San Jo Bay!

A Guide to Snow Camping Near Vancouver

February 19, 2025February 6, 2025 / Maria / Leave a comment

Camping is one of my favourite things to do in the summer, so I would always be sad when the season ends and I’d have to wait a whole year to sleep in the backcountry. I quickly came to the conclusion that I didn’t need to wait and decided to get into snow camping!

It’s definitely not for the faint of heart. It is much more intensive than camping in the summer and it is a lot of work to stay warm. Not to mention, quality 4-season camping equipment is not cheap. I’ve written an entire guide to winter camping and how to stay safe and warm. Once you’ve established you’re ready to try winter camping, the next dilemma is assessing where to go! First check out my guide to avalanche safety and then take a look at some of these recommendations.

Beginner Walk-in Camping (with warming hut)

Lone Duck I Campsite

A small log cabin at Lone Duck II Campground covered in a fresh layer of snow on the ground and cabin, with tall trees with the sun peaking out behind the trees, in E.C. Manning Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada.

This is my number one pick for snow camping if you’re brand new to it. The Lone Duck I Campsite is located in Manning Park and is a first-come-first-serve site through the winter. It has a field for tenting and a communal hut with a woodstove for eating and hanging out. You do need to bring your own firewood, but the benefit is that this campsite is only a couple hundred metres from your car. So if you don’t have the money to invest in quality winter camping equipment, you can just lug in a bunch of gear from your car and not have to worry about fitting everything in your backpack. The site is located right next to Lightning Lake and has immediate access to cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trails. Permits are available through camping.bcparks.ca

Mount Seymour Group Campsite

As the name suggests, this is a group campsite, so if you’d like to use it, please make sure you actually have a group. But if you do, this is one of the easiest and closest options to Vancouver for snow camping. Its located off Mount Seymour road, just below the ski resort. The site is a large field with a warming hut and outhouse, only 100 metres from the parking lot. Similar to Lone Duck, you can use the hut to keep warm and it’s easy to carry in lots of warm gear. Reservations are required and can be booked through camping.bcparks.ca

Beginner Backpack Camping

Falls Lake Campsite

Falls Lake is my top pick for beginners that want to go backpacking because it’s only a short hike from your car. It gives the illusion of remoteness, but in a pinch, if you’re really cold in the middle of the night, it’s not too far to hike back out. Falls Lake is located off the Coquihalla Highway at the exit for Zoa Peak. In the summer, you can drive almost to the campsite, but the road isn’t plowed in the winter, so it’s a short ~2km hike to the lake along the unplowed road. There is an outhouse at the lake and reservations or permits are not required.

Lightning Lakes

A group of hikers have set up a snow camp in a clearing in the forest, with a 4-season tent and snowshoes and shovels around at dusk. There are many snow covered trees on the mountain in the background at Lightning Lakes in E.C. Manning Provincial Park in BC.

Lightning Lakes is another great option for snow camping when the lake is frozen. In the winter, the lake usually completely freezes except around the bridge between the first and second lake. Technically, there’s no official campground here, but there is some open forest area at the end of the second lake (~3km hike) where you can set up camp. I know some people will head as far as Flash Lake to get access to the summer campsites, but the trail to Flash Lake is adjacent to steep terrain where there could be overhead avalanche risk, so I haven’t gone past the end of the second lake. There is no outhouse, so only consider this location if you’re comfortable digging winter catholes. A permit is required from camping.bcparks.ca

Red Heather

Red Heather hut is located halfway to Elfin Lakes in Garibaldi Provincial Park. You can’t camp here in the summer, but snow camping is permitted in the winter. It’s a 5km hike up an old forestry road to get to the site. This hike is a bit longer than the other beginner options and is all uphill, but I include this in beginner backpacking because there is both a warming hut and an outhouse at this site. You cannot camp in the warming hut, you must set up somewhere in the meadow, but it’s a great option to have access to the hut. Chains are required to drive the last 2km to the trailhead (or you can park at the lower lot) and a backcountry permit is required from camping.bcparks.ca

Intermediate Backpack Camping

Ottomite Peak

Ottomite Peak is located off the Coquihalla Highway at the Zopkios Rest Stop. This trail is a bit longer than the beginner trails noted above and has uphill travel to the peak, but overall it’s not a challenging trail. It’s ~4.5km along an old forestry road and it passes through simple avalanche terrain only. There is no official campsite, but there’s a nice place to pitch a few tents at the top of Ottomite Peak. The area is more popular for ski touring, but I was the only one camping there where I visited. There’s no permits for this option, but also, no outhouse.

Zoa Subpeak

Zoa Subpeak is also located off the Coquihalla Highway and shares the same trailhead as Falls Lake. Park on the side of the road and hike in over the unplowed forestry road. Once you reach the summer parking lot, you can hike up along Pipeline Road until you hit the winter trail to Zoa Peak through the trees. The key with this trail in the winter is to only head as far as the subpeak, which is ~5km. The trail to the subpeak is a bit steep through the trees, but it’s all in simple avalanche terrain. The trail to the actual peak goes through challenging terrain, so I don’t recommend it. There’s lots of open space near the subpeak to camp for the night and I’ve heard it has better views than the actual peak. There’s no permit required, but again, no outhouse available either.

Intermediate Backpack Camping (AST Required)

Poland Lake Campsite

An orange tent is set up in the snow for camping with snowshoes and shovels outside the tent and a large snow covered lake and snowy trees in the background, on a sunny blue sky day at Poland Lake in E.C. Manning Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada.

Poland Lake is located in Manning Provincial Park and has an actual campsite. The winter route to the campsite is a bit tricky because you can’t park at the ski resort overnight, so you have to park at Strawberry Flats. You can either walk along Gibson Pass Road, or you can take the trail that runs parallel to the road. However, it’s important to get off the trail partway to avoid going through the middle of the ski resort. You have to hike along the side of a beginner ski run to get up to the official trailhead. This trail is all in simple avalanche terrain, but I noticed a fair bit of overhead avalanche risk when I visited, so I think it’s better to have AST. The campsite is on the far side of the lake, but we opted not to hike across the lake, so I can’t confirm if there is actually an outhouse there. This trail is almost 8km, so it’s definitely a more challenging option due to length. A backcountry permit is required from camping.bcparks.ca

Elfin Lakes Campsite or Hut

Elfin Lakes is a very popular campsite, which people can misconstrue to mean that it’s safe to go there. In the winter, you can opt to either book the hut (which is very popular and books early), or camp in the snow. At 11km, this is by far the most challenging trail on the list. 11km may not seem that long, but it can be very tiring in deep snow with a large pack. Plus, a lot of the trail is located along the ridge, which can be windy and have poor visibility. But the main thing to be aware of is that this trail passes through challenging avalanche terrain, so I don’t recommend it without AST. If you are comfortable in avalanche terrain, I highly recommend this campsite and trail, as both are very beautiful. Reservations are required for the hut and a permit is required for camping from camping.bcparks.ca

Pump Peak

A group of snowshoers head downhill in winter on a snowy mountain with snow covered trees and a view of Vancouver city in the background from Brockton Point in Seymour Mountain Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada.

I left Pump Peak for last because this trail and peak are both located in challenging avalanche terrain (whereas Elfin Lakes just passes through challenging terrain). Pump Peak is a super popular trail due to its proximity to the city and the incredible views. It definitely attracts a lot of people without AST, but I don’t recommend camping here without it. It’s a great option if you want to stay near the city, but I wouldn’t consider it a beginner trail. Once you feel comfortable in avalanche terrain and camping, check this one out. Permits are not required, but you do need a day pass in order to park at the base of the mountain, available at camping.bcparks.ca

Mount Seymour Snow Camping

February 5, 2025January 27, 2025 / Maria / 1 Comment

This post will be a bit different from my usual snow camping trip, but there’s so many ways to enjoy the outdoors and I like highlighting all of them! It is on my bucket list to one day snow camp on Pump Peak, but if you’re nervous about the exposure (and avalanche terrain) and want to get out with a group, there’s an excellent alternative just below the base of the ski resort!

This trip was done with my Trex unit, which is a special branch of Girl Guides of Canada that is focused on outdoor adventure for teenagers. It’s not part of the core guiding program, which is for all ages (Kindergarten to grade 12), and is more well rounded and focuses on art, STEM, physical and mental well-being, and activism, in addition to camping skills. Trex is for teens (including girls, trans-girls and non-binary individuals) who want to go to the next level with their outdoor skills.

This winter we reserved the Mount Seymour Group Site to practice snow camping! The site is located next to the P1 Parking Lot and is closed to the public unless you have a booking. It’s a very economical option for non-profit groups, but a little more expensive for others (but still very reasonable). The site has a warming hut with 6 picnic tables and a large field to camp in. Unfortunately, our camp was at the end of a week of particularly warm weather, so there was very little snow on the ground. We weren’t able to practice making snow shelters, but it was still a good opportunity for Trex to camp outside in below zero conditions in a safe environment.

We were able to hang out and eat all our meals in the shelter, which has a wood stove. So it was easy to keep warm before bed. As a precautionary measure, one of the guiders (in this case me) slept in the hut all night to keep the fire going in case of emergency, but all members did great overnight and everyone slept in their tents for the full night!

Given the proximity to Seymour, we were able to take advantage of the nearby recreation activities. We walked up the road to the ski resort base and spent some time playing in the snow along the trails. We didn’t do a full hike, but nearby options include snowshoeing Dog Mountain or Brockton Point, or exploring within the Mount Seymour trails. We got some wet snow in the morning, followed by sunny breaks in the afternoon and an absolutely gorgeous morning on our second day.

There’s not too much else to share about the site. Like I said, you do need a booking to stay there. A day pass is required in the winter to visit Mount Seymour, but you can just use your permit for the group site to get up the mountain. It’s only a minute walk from the parking lot at P1 to the site and there is an outhouse. There’s also a tap, but it’s turned off in the winter, so make sure you bring all the water you need with you. We used snow melt for washing dishes, but didn’t want to drink it since there hadn’t been any fresh snow in at least a week.

The only downside is that people will continually walk through your site despite 3 signs instructing them not to and informing of a fine. Please don’t do this, especially when youth groups are using the site. I was there with minors, and while I know you just want to take a photo with the pretty snow on the trees, I have a responsibility for their care and can’t have randoms walking around the site where they sleep, taking photos. The site was closed for 2 years during COVID, so people seem to think it’s just fair game now.

Overall, we had a great time. We’ve also stayed at the Lone Duck group site in Manning Park. I would say the Lone Duck site is nicer (it’s more private, gets more snow, and it’s right on the lake), but the real benefit of Mount Seymour is how close it is to the city. A great option if you’re looking for a safe way to try snow camping!