Favourite Hikes in Southwestern BC: Part V

December 4, 2024November 15, 2024 / Maria / 1 Comment

It’s been over 10 years since I moved to British Columbia, so every 2 years I compile a list of my favourite hikes from the past 2 years. You can view my other favourite hikes in Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, and Part 4. This collection is my favourite trails that I hiked in 2023 and 2024. It’s always a mix of day hikes and backpacking trips!

Two hikers lay on Starvation Lake on floating pads with the mountains and forest in the background on a warm, sunny day in Summer, near Squamish, BC.

#10 Starvation Lake

This hike is super easy and accessible, but chances are, you’ve never heard of it. The alpine snow was pretty slow to melt in the summer of 2024, so one day in July we decided to check out some of the lesser known trails in Squamish. We wanted to stay at a low elevation and take advantage of lake swimming season. We had Brunch at Fergie’s and then continued to the end of Paradise Valley Road to start this hike. The trail follows the Cheakamus River before a gentle hike uphill on the Sea to Sky Trail. We hiked as far as the Starvation Lake Rec Site and spent several hours lounging around and swimming in the warm water. You can continue hiking further to connect with the Sea to Sky highway (if you have two cars), but we enjoyed a round trip from the lake. (6km roundtrip, 130m elevation gain)

A group of snowshoers head downhill in winter on a snowy mountain with snow covered trees and a view of Vancouver city in the background from Brockton Point in Seymour Mountain Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada.

#9 Brockton Point

Brockton Point is well known among the skiing and snowshoeing crowd. It’s a hike I’ve done several times, but I only started to appreciate it in the past few years. I recommend doing it in the winter, just make sure to book a free parking pass for Mount Seymour Backcountry or you’ll be denied access. Recently I’ve been ski touring up to Brockton Point and then skiing back down through the resort trails, but it’s also a really nice snowshoeing trail. The trail starts at the back of the parking lot and hikes parallel to the ski run. Most users continue past Brockton Point to Pump Peak, but this takes you into avalanche terrain, so don’t go further without the proper gear and training. I always stop at Brockton because the view is great there anyways! (6km roundtrip, 270m elevation gain)

A photo of a tent in a meadow just before sunrise, as the sun turns the surrounding mountains orange on a clear sky day overlooking the alpine and forest around Jade Lake in Mount Revelstoke National Park in BC.

#8 Jade Lake

In line with my other posts, I’m not afraid to stretch the boundaries of what is considered “southwestern BC”. Jade Lake is located 6 hours away from Vancouver in Mount Revelstoke National Park, so it’s definitely a bit of a stretch to include it in this list, but it’s a great hike! Eva and Jade Lake can be done as either a backpacking trip, or a long day trip. It’s a little over 20km round trip if you want to do both lakes in a day, so I opted to visit overnight. The hike starts from the top of Mount Revelstoke and meanders through beautiful alpine meadows. After Eva Lake, the hike climbs up the pass for a beautiful view of Jade Lake. Most people stop at the Pass, but it’s definitely worth it to add the extra 2km down to Jade Lake, which is a gorgeous alpine lake that receives limited visitors compared to the rest of the park. (20km roundtrip, 525m elevation gain)

A hiker stands on the edge of a rock next to Widgeon Creek with the forest and mountains in the background on a sunny day

#7 Widgeon Falls

Widgeon Falls is a really unique hike because it’s only accessible by boat! In the summer, you can rent canoes from Pitt Lake and paddle across the Pitt River and up Widgeon Creek to the Widgeon Campsite (~1.5 hour paddle). It’s a pretty safe paddle, but you definitely want to be prepared if you’ve never canoed before. The Pitt River is tidally influenced and can become pretty fast moving, so research the current conditions before visiting. I think the best time to go is early spring or early summer. Avoid freshet, which causes high flows in the river, but also avoid late summer because then the flows in the creek can get too low. From the campsite, you can hike through the forest and along the river to Widgeon Falls. It’s an easy hike, but makes for a great adventure! (9km roundtrip paddle, 6km roundtrip hike)

A photo of Palmers Pond on a summer day, with the green meadows, forest, and mountains in the background, on the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC Trail) near Hope in British Columbia, Canada.

#6 HBC Heritage Trail

If you know me well, you might be surprised to see this hike on the list. I did not have a great time on this hike. It’s 80km long and me and Carolyn completed the entire trail in 3 days, resulting in a foot injury. I was quite miserable along a lot of the trail, but it was definitely a type 2 kind of fun because I still think about this trail all the time. Like the name suggests, it’s a heritage trail that connects Hope to Tulameen and was used during the fur trade and by First Nations. The trail has a lot of forest walking and is not for the faint of heart after the 2021 flood caused a lot of blowdowns and washouts. Most of the trail has now been repaired by amazing volunteers, but the real reason you do this hike is for the solitude. We encountered a lot of people when we passed through Lodestone Lake Rec Site, but otherwise, we didn’t see a single person on the trail in the entire 3 day weekend we were hiking. Despite the challenges, I think this is a really special trail and you will be rewarded with views at Conglomerate Flats and Palmer’s Pond. It’s a great option if you like a challenge! (80km, 3300m elevation gain, 4-6 days)

A female hiker stands next to a fence, looking out at the fast moving water of Sechelt Inlet near Skookumchuck Narrows, with the mountains in the background on a sunny, summer day, on the Sunshine Coast, BC.

#5 Skookumchuck Narrows

This is a small and easy trail on the Sunshine Coast, but I really enjoyed visiting it. After you take the ferry to Langdale, drive all the way north to Earls Cove and take the turn off to Egmont. It’s a relatively easy hike, so make a day of it and visit the small village of Egmont and go for a swim in Waugh Lake on the way back. There’s a tiny cafe along the trail, so you can reward yourself with a little treat. The trail hikes through the woods to a series of viewpoints at the Sechelt Rapids. The main reason to visit is to see the series of rapids that develop during tide change, which are popular among kayakers and whitewater enthusiasts. The views of Sechelt Inlet are gorgeous, and it’s really fun to watch the thrill seekers playing in the rapids! (9km roundtrip, 150m elevation gain)

A female hiker floats in an alpine lake while swimming at Blanca Lake, with the mountains in the background on a blue sky, sunny day, north of Squamish, BC

#4 Blanca Lake

Blanca Lake is still a relatively little known hike, but it is quickly becoming popular. It’s located really far down the Squamish River FSR, off the Elaho Mainline on E300 line. 4WD is required to get to the trailhead. You could try taking a car partway up the E300, but it’s 10km long and completely exposed. We picked up a few hitchhikers who were getting ready to quit from the heat. If you make it to the trailhead, it’s a short but steep hike up to the alpine. There’s a steep climb in the first 1.5km, but then the incline is more gentle for the remaining 3km up to the lake. You can visit as a day hike or an overnight. We stayed one night and there is a lot of space for tents. If you have the time, stay 2 nights to explore the surrounding alpine area. There’s no trails, but there’s lots of terrain to explore! (9km roundtrip, 500m elevation gain)

A landscape photo of the trees, mountains, and ponds, from the top of Mount Steele in Tetrahedron Provincial Park on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia, Canada.

#3 Tetrahedron Park

Tetrahedron Park is located on the lower Sunshine Coast and has an amazing hut system that can be utilized all year round. Drive to Sechelt and take Sechelt Inlet Road out to the Gray Creek FSR. A normal car will get you to the lower parking lot, or with 4WD, you can save 1km extra and drive to the upper lot. You can visit Tetrahedron as a day trip, but I really recommend overnight to take advantage of the huts (great for beginners). There’s ~30km of hiking and 4 huts. Batchelor Cabin is best for families, Edwards Cabin is a good base camp for day hikes, and the cabins at Mount Steele and McNair Lake are great for more adventurous hikers. I highly recommend summiting Mount Steele, but exercise caution in the winter and watch for avalanche terrain.

A photo of the hiking trail in South Chilcotin Provincial Park that runs to Lorna Pass. The trail is covered in yellow wildflowers in the middle of the forest, with the mountains peaking out in the background on a cloudy day in British Columbia.

#2 South Chilcotin Provincial Park

South Chilcotin is a huge park with so many options for hiking. It’s definitely not a trip you can do for a day, unless you’re a mountain biker, but it’s great for multi day backpacking trips. I visited the park in mid-summer and did a 90km loop around the core area of the park, from Tyaughton Creek, over Deer Pass, to Spruce Lake. Other trip options include exploring the park via the Castle Creek trail or through adjacent Big Creek Park. For a price, you can take a float plane into the core area of the park and stay at fancy mountain lodges with full catering. What’s really nice about this park is the limited number of people and we had the backcountry sites to ourselves most nights.

A photo of Russet Lake with the grassy meadows and the mountains in the background on a smoky summer day in Garibaldi Provincial Park near Whistler, British Columbia, Canada.

#1 Russet Lake

I decided on Russet Lake as my favourite hike of the last two years. It’s a popular hike in the Garibaldi backcountry, but due to trail length and campsite maximums, it’s hard to do as a day hike and not as busy as other trails in the park. You can access the lake via the Singing Pass Trail (free from Whistler base), or take the gondola and peak chair up to the top of the mountain and hike via the Musical Bumps trail (this is what I did). There’s a lot of up and down along this trail, but you’re in the alpine the entire time and it’s absolutely breathtaking! Once you reach the lake, you can pay more to stay in the very beautiful Kees and Claire Hut, or you can stay in the BC Parks campsite at the lake. Stay an extra day if you want to explore the surrounding area. (24km roundtrip, 550m elevation gain)

Granite Falls Kayak Trip

October 16, 2024October 16, 2024 / Maria / 1 Comment

I feel like summer gets shorter every year that I live in Vancouver, but my bucket list of summer activities only gets longer. I love kayaking, but the alpine backpacking season is so short that I often forget to schedule in kayaking adventures. I always go kayaking with Seth, and we can’t take our dog with us, so it’s hard to find someone to look after her every time we want to go out. But we celebrated our 5 year wedding anniversary in August, and I was determined to go on an overnight trip!

We’ve done lots of kayaking in Indian Arm, more recently known as Say Nuth Khaw Yum Provincial Park or Selilwet, which is located right in the middle of the lower mainland and easily accessible from both the North Shore and Belcarra. Our favourite day trip is to launch from Belcarra and paddle up to Jug Island and Ferrar Cove, but we’ve never spent an overnight in the Arm. There’s 3 campsites scattered along the route and I’ve wanted to paddle up to the end for many years. Twin Islands is located at the southern end and is the most popular site. There are 2 more BC Parks sites at the northern end: Berg’s Landing and Granite Falls. We’ve paddled to Twin Islands a few times, but I really wanted to get to Granite Falls at the far end of Selilwet.

The first thing to be aware of is that this is an extremely popular trip. We planned it for a Saturday night, so we knew it would be busy with both kayakers and pleasure boaters (anything with a motor). If you’re able to go on a weeknight, I think it would be a much nicer experience. You can rent kayaks from either Deep Cove Kayaks or Takaya Tours in Cates Park. Deep Cove Kayaks seems to be the most popular option as they have a huge fleet and it’s a shorter paddling distance, but Takaya is also a great option to avoid crowded Deep Cove and support an indigenous owned company.

I wish we could start our trip out of Belcarra, which is the same paddling distance as Deep Cove and much closer to our home, but unfortunately there’s no overnight parking from Belcarra or Barnet Marine, so Deep Cove or Cates Park are the only options. Deep Cove gets insanely busy in the summer, so we got up really early on Saturday morning to beat the traffic. I dropped off Seth and the kayaks at the loading zone and then found parking. The nearby parking is 3 hours maximum, so it’s a bit of a walk, but it was relatively easy for me to find parking at 7:30am. It was insanely crowded when we returned the following day in the mid-afternoon, so definitely go early.

We were on the water around 8:30am and Seth dropped a crab trap at the mouth of Deep Cove. Selilwet is a beautiful place to paddle, but the second perk of getting up early is that the conditions are much better for paddling in the morning. The Arm gets a notoriously strong southerly wind in the afternoon and it can get quite choppy. We had a really enjoyable paddle out of Deep Cove and ended up paddling ~7.5km to Thywates Landing before taking a break. There were lots of kayakers on the water, but most of them weren’t going further than Twin Islands.

Another option for paddling is to stop at Jug Island or the campsite at Twin Islands, but both options require an open water crossing, which I usually try and avoid having to do too many times, so it depends what route you prefer. The thing I don’t like about paddling in the Arm is that there aren’t a lot of public rest locations. When the tide is low there are some places you can stop, but a lot of the beaches seem to be attached to people’s properties. In most cases, you can’t own the beach (unless your property is really old and you’ve been grandfathered into old bylaws), so you can pretty much stop wherever you want, but I’m never really sure and try to stick to public spaces.

Thywates Landing is a really great option on the west side of Selilwet. It’s a small beach, but it’s owned by Metro Vancouver Regional Parks, so it’s primarily meant as a stopping place for paddlers. There’s a short walk (100m) up to a little waterfall and pool, which is really nice. The water was still really flat by the time we got to Thywates Landing, so we only took a short break to take advantage of the optimal paddling conditions. We started seeing a few more paddlers heading up the Arm and the pleasure boaters increased throughout the day, stirring up wake.

We paddled another 7.5km to Berg’s Landing, which is the second campground owned by BC Parks. Along the way we passed Silver Falls, which is a real highlight going up the Arm. There’s lots of space at Berg’s Landing and there was only one other tent there when we arrived. I’m sure the campsite got busier later, but Granite Falls definitely seems to be the more popular of the two sites. We stopped at Berg’s Landing for lunch at noon, right around when the wind started to pick up. It’s another ~2km to Granite Falls (for 17km in total from Deep Cove). It was choppy for the last 30 minutes of paddling, but at least we had a tailwind!

Granite Falls was already quite busy when we arrived at 1pm, but there is a lot of space for tents and we didn’t have trouble finding a site. As a kayaker, you’re never going to beat the people in motorboats, so leave early enough that you don’t have to fight the waves on the way up. There’s always going to be a bunch of novice paddlers that show up much later in the afternoon and evening, so just do your best.

Berg’s Landing is mostly a big field with some campsites around the edges and a big beach. Granite Falls is more popular because it has a bunch of campsites along the coast and it has a large freshwater source in the form of the waterfall cascading down from the mountain. I have visited Granite Falls once before by zodiac in June and there is a big difference in the water flow in the Spring and late Summer. When I visited in June, the Falls were a violent, rushing cascade of water, versus in mid-August when it’s much more of a trickle. There’s a nice pool at the bottom that you can swim in and there were a lot of yachters visiting for the day. There used to be a public wharf, but it’s gone now, so it’s a bit trickier for the pleasure cruisers to access.

Granite Falls has 2 new outhouses and a bear cache. Unfortunately neither are really appropriate for this type of site. While Granite Falls attracts all kinds of campers, it’s a backcountry site that gets treated like a frontcountry site. By which I mean, it gets a lot of inexperienced campers and it’s not treated with the respect it deserves. I wanted to love the site – it’s very beautiful – but the other campers left me feeling frustrated. It’s a wilderness campsite that could easily be frequented by bears, but because it’s easy to access by motorized boat, it attracts a lot of party people and it gets treated like an urban picnic site. People bring in large coolers of food and beer and don’t bother to secure anything. I could easily see the public losing access to this campground in the future from misuse.

For this reason, I didn’t think the facilities were appropriate. There are only 4 small bear bins and there were easily 50 people staying at the site on Saturday night. So even if people practiced bear safety, there still wouldn’t be enough space for everyone. Several groups were hauling in coolers of beer, which they left unattended all night. Hard shell coolers are not bear proof, so either leave them on your yacht or at home. We overheard another camper say to their friend, “We’re not worried about bears are we? There’s so many of us.” Please, it’s not about being worried about bears. Bear safety is about avoiding opportunities for bears to become food habituated, which almost always results in the death of the bear and sometimes, the closure of the site.

The outhouses were actually really nice. They’re the urine diverting outhouses with the conveyor belt pump. Unfortunately, no one seemed to have any idea how to use them and people were not pumping the belt after using it, so they quickly became clogged. Bless Seth, he tried for the better part of 20 minutes to unclog the toilet using a stick, but had no success. I think they just need a bit more educational info in the stalls. But this technology might be too advanced for the party people. To be fair – a lot of the people at the site were very respectful, but a few large groups can really ruin it.

So I did leave this trip feeling a bit annoyed, but overall, I enjoyed the experience. Because of the paddling conditions, we arrived at the site early in the day and had lots of time to relax. We spent some time exploring the waterfall and we went for a swim in the ocean, which is really warm at this time of year. Seth took a nap in the shade and I read my book. It’s easier to bring fresh food when kayaking, so we had tahini yam and halloumi tacos for supper, which I had made the evening before. We went for a short evening paddle before sunrise, which is always a highlight for me. It was super warm since we were at sea level, and we went to bed early to prepare for an early rise.

We had bad luck in that we got a surprise rain shower right when we were getting up at 6am. It didn’t rain a lot, but enough to make all our equipment wet while we were packing it up. We were on the water by 7:30am. It’s tiring to get up so early, but I do love having an early start!

We paddled on the west side of the Arm on the way in, so we decided to stick to the east side going back. There’s definitely more places to take a break on the west side, but the water was flat, so we were pretty fast and didn’t need a lot of breaks. We paddled 8km to Buntzen Bay and pulled out on a small rocky beach for a break. It’s not a public area, but the mountain gets really steep after that, so it was the last opportunity to pull out. You get to pass by two hydroelectric facilities, which are a neat feature of the Arm. The northern facility is still in use and draws water from Buntzen Lake via a large penstock. The southern facility is decommissioned, but is an interesting piece of architecture. It was 4.5km from Buntzen Bay to Twin Islands, where we stopped on the South Island for lunch.

https://flic.kr/p/2qbwxxV

The wind did start to pick up again after noon, but it was very manageable. We paddled to Raccoon Island and then crossed back to the west side to kayak into Deep Cove. I drank a lot of iced tea at lunch and it caught up with me at this point, so I had to do a hurried paddle into Deep Cove to use the washroom while Seth checked his crab trap. He got 6 crabs, but only 1 that he was able to keep. We’ve only caught dungeness crab in the past, so this was our first time catching rock crab. It was smaller, but still yummy! We paired it with some Newfoundland cod tongues at home, along with local corn and beets.

We arrived in Deep Cove at 1pm. There were people everywhere and it was chaotic landing on the beach and moving our kayaks to the loading area. I had 3 cars fighting over my parking spot when I left and we had to load the kayaks really quickly (while also getting stopped every 3 minutes by people trying to take our spot, not realizing it was 15min parking). Overall, it was a fun trip and Selilwet is really beautiful, but I don’t think I’ll be in a rush to do it again. It’s one of the most accessible sea kayaking trips from Vancouver, but it’s a very different experience than, say, Desolation Sound or the Gulf Islands. Worth doing, but maybe only once.

South Chilcotin Backpacking Trip – The Lakes

October 9, 2024December 18, 2024 / Maria / 5 Comments

Continuing on from Part I, Part II, and Part III. After arriving at Trigger Lake on Day 4, we were firmly in the second part of our trip. We planned to hit Spruce Lake for the next evening, which was 14km away. The hiking was pretty easy on Day 5, and we left Trigger Lake, hoping the next lake would be better for swimming. After a few kilometres, we arrived at Hummingbird Lake. The edge of the lake is located on a rock slide, so you have to cross several boulder fields as you walk along the length of the lake. The campsite is located on the east end of the lake, which is where we were heading, but I could tell it looked pretty shallow on that end. So we stopped before the campsite, on the edge of the boulder field, to go for a swim.

It was an excellent choice. We found a big rock to hang out on and Brandon had a snack while I went for a swim. It was cold, but refreshing and I had a good bath, it was the first time I actually felt clean on the trip. The rocks were still pretty muddy and every one you touched would knock off an inch of mud into the water, but at least you don’t sink down into it! A product of the remoteness I guess, and lack of visitors.

Most of the hiking for the day was in the forest. There’s not a lot of landmarks, so it was hard to decide where to stop for lunch. Eventually we found a nice meadow and took a break for lunch before climbing up towards Spruce Lake. There’s another small campsite called Cowboy Camp along the way, but it doesn’t have any amenities and seemed a bit buggy.

Spruce Lake is interesting because only the east side of the lake is actually located in the Park. There’s a small cutout on the west side of the lake where people own lakefront properties, and we saw some people out on the water in boats. There’s two BC Parks campsites on the lake, but the south site is currently closed. I think there’s a bunch of dead trees in the area that are a fall hazard, so you can’t stay there.

The walk around Spruce Lake to the North campsite is pretty disappointing because you can’t actually see the lake from the trail, so it felt like a long walk. The Spruce Lake campground is by far the largest and most widely used campsite in the park. In was a Thursday, so we were the only ones there when we arrived, but the solo hiker we ran into on our first day told us there had been 11 tents there when she stayed on a Saturday Night.

It’s a large campsite, with lots of space for tents. It has 2 outhouses, a bear cache, and a ton of picnic tables. We claimed the campsite closest to the lake and took over the picnic table. There’s a large wharf, which is used for the float plane operation, and the Tyax lodge is located 10-minute walk away. I went for another swim, but Spruce Lake is also very mucky. I jumped in off the end of the wharf, but it’s not very deep and I could still feel the vegetation tickling my toes. There’s no ladder, so I had to brute strength my way back onto the dock.

Eventually some other mountain bikers passed through and went for a swim on their way to the lodge. A bike packer showed up around sunset and camped for the night, but otherwise no one else arrived. It was a warm evening and the sky was clear, so I decided to do a bit of star photography from the dock. Once it got dark, I lay out to take some photos of the milky way. I was still hoping for a glimpse of the northern lights, but no luck! I had to lie super still so as not to rock the wharf and ruin the photos, but I had fun! I also had a good laugh when I realized I could hear Brandon’s snores from the tent echoing across the water!

We’d planned to stay another full day in the park, but we decided to head out one day early. We were going to do another day hike and then re-locate to WD Camp, but it was a Friday heading into the long weekend and we decided we were ready for a real bed. The float plane was running back and forth all morning with a steady stream of long weekend visitors. One couple stopped at Spruce Lake while we were packing up, dropped a pile of giant Rubbermaid containers at the site, and then took off in the plane again, telling us they had a party of 12 on the way in.

To get ahead of the crowds, we decided to do a big day and hike the full 22km back to the car. I’m not going to lie, it was pretty brutal, but I don’t regret it. The first 6km back to WD Camp were pretty good, but re-doing the Tyaughton Creek Trail sucked. There’s a huge climb through some really exposed meadows, which we hit around noon. It was getting really hot and we crawled up it, before stopping for lunch near a stream. The black flies were also pretty relentless, so it was hard to take any good breaks. We passed several groups of hikers and bikers later in the day, who were entering the park for the weekend, which was probably the most people we’d seen all week!

We were a sweaty mess and covered in dirt by the time we reached the car, but so happy to be done! We took a river bath at Tyaughton Creek Rec Site on the way out, and then drove straight to the lodge for supper. It was a lot busier than when we’d entered the park, but they made room for us on the patio, which was nice. There’s not many things more rewarding than a cold beer after a long hike!

Friburg Rec Site was totally full with all the long weekend visitors, so we drove to Mowson Pond Rec Site instead. We easily found a site and Mowson Pond is so much nicer than Friburg! I definitely recommend it as the preferred option if you ever visit. It’s still really close, but it has actual campsites, rather than just a parking lot. There’s also the Gun Creek Rec Site, which is a bit further, but we checked it out on our way back, and it’s also really nice.

So we exited the trail on Friday night and returned home on Saturday. We took the Hurley Forest Road again and discovered an awesome little famers stall in Pemberton Meadows on the way home. It’s basically a little produce stand with a couple of refrigerators. The local farmers stock it and it’s just run on the honour system. Take what you want and put your cash in the money box. I got carrots and beets, and they were the juiciest vegetables I’ve ever had! So good!

So overall, I would definitely consider this trip a success. I’m thrilled that the trip finally made it off my bucket list, but I’ve now added 3 other trails in the park to my list, so it’s really been a net gain. Either way, I’m happy we did it and I would absolutely return again in the future!