Considering how long I’ve lived in Vancouver, it’s a bit shocking that this was my first time hiking to Pump Peak though it’s not been for lack of effort. Back in 2019, I tried to hike via Pump Peak on my way to Elsay Lake, but I ended up on the wrong trail and because of the time crunch to get to Elsay Lake, I ended up skipping Pump Peak entirely. I’ve also made several attempts to visit Pump Peak in the winter, but I always find myself completely exhausted by the time I reach Brockton Point and I’ve abandoned Pump Peak on more than one occasion.
I had to cancel a trip at the last minute in mid-June of this year, but I still wanted to get outside and do something, so I decided to make another attempt at Pump Peak, this time as an overnight objective. I was solo hiking with my dog, Sadie, so I thought Pump Peak would be a good option since it’s popular and so close to the city. I ended up having the best time, I can’t believe I waited so long to hike there!
I did this hike over the summer solstice and I had lots of daylight, so I didn’t end up leaving my house in Coquitlam until 5pm. Me and Sadie were ready to start hiking at 6pm and by 7:30pm, we were at the top. I knew it was a short hike, but I was still astounded at how quickly I went from my house to the summit. It’s a very achievable objective if you make a last minute decision to go backpacking.
For those who aren’t familiar. Pump Peak is located in Mount Seymour Provincial Park in North Vancouver. It’s very popular in all seasons because of its proximity to the city. In the summer, you can park in the main ski resort lot, unless you’re going overnight, in which case you need to park in Lot 2. In the winter, you need to park in the lot along the road (also known as Lot 1) since the ski resort is in operation. You also need to get a day use permit from BC Parks in the winter. These release 2 days in advance of your trip, at 7am. They are free, but they sell out fast. No permits are required in the summer.
The hike involves climbing the trail along the edge of the ski resort, or in the summer, you do have the option to walk right up the ski trails. I opted to take the side trail since there is more shade. The trail goes to Brockton Point, which also has great views of the city. In the summer, it took me an hour to get to Brockton Point, but in the winter, it takes me closer to 90 minutes. It’s approximately 2.5km and 250m of elevation gain, closer to 3km in the winter since the parking lot is farther away.
After Brockton Point, the trail continues for another 1.5km and 150m in elevation gain to the top of Pump Peak, also known as 1st Peak. In the summer, this took me another 30 minutes, but I’d budget for another hour in the winter. It is the steepest part of the trail as it winds along the back of the peak. There were a lot of mosquitoes in the summer, so be prepared with fly spray and a thermacell. Please be aware that in the winter, the portion of the trail between Brockton and Pump Peak is in challenging avalanche terrain. Don’t be lulled into a false sense of security by the crowds, you should have AST1 training and travel with the appropriate equipment in this area in the winter.
While Pump Peak is very popular for camping, please be aware that there is no campground and it is considered wild camping. This means there is no outhouse or bear cache. You should be prepared to dig a cathole if you need to poop, and you should bring a bear bin or bear bag for your food. There are not many trees, so it’s not really possible to do a bear hang. My sense was that most people camping in the area were not practicing proper bear safety and it’s important that we do, otherwise the area will become dangerous to bears and humans.
Finding somewhere to pitch your tent can be a little bit challenging because there are no established tent pads. Most likely you will be pitching your tent on bare rock. However, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be because there is so much space available to chose from. There were quite a few people camping, but everyone was very spread out and I didn’t have too much trouble finding somewhere to set up my tent that wasn’t crowded. I opted to set up near some of the trees so that I would have privacy when I needed to pee.
There is nowhere to set up on the actual summit and it will be crowded with people, so do not attempt to pitch your tent up there. Be aware that there is also no water source. There were a few small tarns around, which was helpful to Sadie, but I would not recommend trying to drink or even filter that water. Just hike up all the water you need for your trip, including for your dog.
It’s a beautiful place to camp though. There are incredible views of both the city and the backcountry. From the peak, you can enjoy a 360 degree view in all directions. We arrived well before sunset, so after setting up the tent, me and Sadie went up to the peak before looking for solitude underneath, in which to enjoy the sunset. Because it was the solstice, it was a particularly long sunset and the wind kept the mosquitoes away.
What was really annoying was that the summit is also a popular destination for sunrise enthusiasts. This would be fine, but on this particular day, a group a very noisy boys decided to hike up to the summit at 4:30am and were not shy about yelling and laughing very loudly. Sound travels really well in the alpine, so everyone on the mountain was privy to their conversation and it was very annoying. I had a similar experience when I did Golden Ears last year and it’s always men who act this way, so please try and have a little consideration that at 4:30am, most of the people in the nearby tents might be trying to sleep and they can definitely hear you.
My thermacell was definitely essential to enjoy breakfast the following morning as the mosquitoes returned in full force with the sun. A lot of people packed up their tents quickly to escape them, but me and Sadie were able to hang out for a little bit before heading back down the mountain.
What I really loved about this trip was the ability to start hiking late (I wouldn’t recommend going too early because the mosquitoes will drive you crazy) and the ability to arrive home early the following day. I felt like this trip enabled me to have a fun night outside while still leaving most of my weekend available to relax or pursue other interests. I’m used to driving so far away for my backpacking trips and having them take up the entire weekend, it was nice to still have lots of time to myself with this trip.
In conclusion, this is a really safe and convenient trip for those living in the lower mainland. I would definitely recommend it, but please respect the backcountry. Practice proper bear safety and leave no trace when wild camping. I did notice that people were also camping on Brockton Point and I’m not sure if that’s allowed. The BC Parks website says you can camp anywhere north of Brockton Point, but I’m not sure if that includes the Point itself.
Mount Assiniboine is located in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park in BC and is one of the more iconic peaks in the Canadian Rockies. It’s been a few years since I hiked this trail, but there are a lot of options for how to do this trip, and I wanted to share my knowledge in the form of a backpacking guide to the trail. At the time that I hiked the trail in 2021, I wrote a 4-part trail report, which you can read starting here. Reservations for the 2026 season release at 7am PST, 3 months in advance of your planned start date.
The Park
Mount Assiniboine is located in the middle of Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, but is surrounded by Banff and Kootenay National Parks, as well as Spray Lakes Provincial Park in Alberta. If you plan to hike there, you’ll have to go through one of the National Parks, with Banff being the more popular access point. There are two routes through Banff and one route through Kootenay, but they are all at least 25km long, so it is a big hike just to get into the park.
If you’re looking for a more direct approach to the park, it is possible to fly in from the Mount Shark trailhead via helicopter. This is a popular option if you want to maximize your time in the core area of the park. The core area of the park encompasses Magog Lake, Sunburst Lake, and Cerulean Lake, as well as the popular day hiking trail up to the Nub (or the Nublet/Niblet if you prefer a shorter option). The Nub is well known for its phenomenal sunset views of Mount Assiniboine, when the adjacent Sunburst Peak lights up orange as the sun goes down (see photo below).
There are limited options for where to stay in the park, which will likely be the restricting factor of your trip. The cheapest option is to stay at the Magog Lake Campground, if you can score permits. Otherwise you’ll have to pay more to stay in either the Naiset Huts or Assiniboine Lodge, both of which are privately owned and not cheap. The lodge is catered, but I’m not sure about the huts. There is another campground at Og Lake, but it’s approximately 5km away from the core area of the park, so it’s not ideal.
If you have limited time, I recommend flying into the park, but if you can spare a few extra days, you can do either a there-and-back trip or a thru hike. I opted to do a thru hike along the two access points in Banff National Park and it’s a very scenic hike. It’s best if you have 2 days each way (with a night spent halfway between), and then another 2 days to explore the core area of the park (6 days in total). Another option could be to fly in and then backpack out through Wonder or Assiniboine Pass, to experience the best of both options.
Sunburst Mountain and Mount Assiniboine at sunset from the Nublet
Time of Year
The best time of year to hike Assiniboine is in the Summer or early Fall. There may still be some snow on the trails if you go in late-June, but the later you go in the summer, the more likely that your trip might be impacted by wildfires. While most people prefer to backpack in the summer, late September is also popular due to the colourful larch trees through Wonder Pass. However, you should be prepared for snow and cold conditions at this time of year. I hiked the trail in late June and there was no snow, but it was during the early season heat wave of 2021, which melted remaining snow very quickly.
Getting There
There are 3 primary ways to access the park: the Mount Shark Trailhead, Sunshine Village, or the Simpson River Trailhead. Unfortunately, the park is not accessible by public transit. Similar to other popular Canadian parks, the easiest way to access is by driving. If you’re flying in, Calgary is the closest major airport.
Mount Shark: If you plan to fly into the park or hike in via Wonder or Assiniboine Pass, you will need to take Spray Lakes Road out of Canmore and drive to the trailhead at Mount Shark. There are two parking lots here, one for hikers accessing the trailhead, and another for those taking the helicopter. A National Parks Pass is not required to park here since the trailhead is technically in Spray Valley Provincial Park. However, you will need to pay for a Kananaskis Conservation Pass from Alberta Parks in order to park your car.
Sunshine Village: In my opinion, the Sunshine Village access is the easiest way to hike into the park. You can hike along the Citadel Pass Trail at the top of the Sunshine Village gondola. You park at the base of the ski resort, at the end of Sunshine Road off of Highway 1, and have the option of paying to the gondola to the top of the mountain. I highly recommend this as it will save you 5km of hiking and over 500m of elevation gain. A National Park Pass is required to park at the base as it is located in Banff National Park.
Simpson River: This is the least popular access point to the park as it’s the least maintained trail and the longest route to Magog Lake, as well as one of the lesser scenic routes. However, it is a great option if you’d like to avoid crowds or are unable to get permits to one of the halfway camps on the other routes. The trailhead is located off Highway 93 in Kootenay National Park, so a National Park Pass is required to park.
Using my thermarest to float on Sunburst Lake
Permits
Like most popular hikes in the Rockies, securing your camping permits will likely be the hardest part of your trip. This is a popular destination and while more people prefer to fly in rather than hike, it is challenging to get camping permits in the core area of the park. I’m not sure how difficult it is to book the lodge or the huts, but if you want to get camping permits, then it’s important to mark your calendar with the appropriate permit release dates. Unfortunately, because there are many different access points to the park, depending on your itinerary, you may have to obtain permits from both BC Parks and Parks Canada.
The permit release date for Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park is 7am PST, 3 months in advance of the start of your trip. They are released through BC Parks (camping.bcparks.ca) in a rolling window. These permits are considered “backcountry reservations” and they will likely sell out as soon as they release. So if you want a permit for July 1, you will need to be online at 7am on April 1 to make your reservation. Reservations are available for Magog Lake, Og Lake, and Porcupine Campsite. Bookings are $25 per person, per night (plus a booking fee).
If you are planning to hike in or out via Wonder or Assiniboine Pass, you may also want to make a reservation for one of the Parks Canada Sites (https://reservation.pc.gc.ca/), either Marvel Lake or McBride Camp. These campsites are all located in Banff National Park and the release date for 2026 was January 26, 2026 at 8am MST. Bookings are $15 per person, per night (plus a booking fee). Once booking opens, select “backcountry” in the tabs along the top of the booking page, and then select “backcountry zone”, followed by “Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho Backcountry”. The appropriate access point is “Bryant Creek Trailhead”. If you can’t get one of these sites, there are two more alternative sites, Big Springs or Allenby Junction Camp, though they are not located at the midpoint of the trail.
There are no reservations required if you are hiking via the Simpson River Trail in Kootenay National Park, but there are 3 potential campgrounds: Surprise Creek, Rock Lake, or Mitchell Meadows.
Here’s a few tips for getting your camping permits:
For permits from Parks Canada, get on the booking website 15 minutes early using as many devices as possible (computers, phones, ipads, etc). At release time, everyone on the website is entered into a random generator that assigns you a position in the queue. All of your devices will be assigned a place in line, then proceed to book your permits on whatever device has the shortest queue.
For permits from BC Parks, there is no queue, so there’s no benefit to using multiple devices. To save time, create and login to your account before 7am and check the system time at the top right corner of the page so that you click reserve right at 7am.
If you don’t see availability for your preferred date, keep refreshing for at least 15 minutes. With so many people trying to book campsites, dates are always disappearing and then becoming available again. Be flexible with dates.
If you can’t get the dates you want, you can track cancellations on Schnerp, which will notify you when a site opens up.
Mount Assiniboine and Magog Lake on the way down from Wonder Pass
Campsites
There are 3 backcountry campsites in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park and 4 backcountry campsites along the Wonder/Assiniboine route in Banff National Park. There are 3 backcountry campsites in Kootenay National Park, but they do not require reservations. There is only 1 campsite in the core area of the park, Magog Lake, so this should be your priority booking. I’ll discuss itineraries below, but here’s an overview of the available campsites.
Magog Lake – This is the most centrally located campsite for your visit to the core area of Assiniboine Park. This should be your first priority for bookings and I recommend at least two nights at the campsite. It has 40 tent sites and a large open-air shelter, which you must use for all cooking. The campsite also has several outhouses and grey-water disposal, a water tap, and bear lockers next to the cooking shelter. Book this campsite through BC Parks, $25 per person, per night.
Og Lake – This campground is technically located in the core area of the park as well, but it is 5kms from Magog Lake and the Nub hike, so it’s not as ideal as the Magog Lake Campsite. It’s an alternative option if you can’t get into Magog Lake or a good stop on the way to Magog Lake via the Citadel Pass Trail from Sunshine Village. It has 10 tent sites, an outhouse, bear lockers, and grey-water disposal. There are picnic tables for cooking and water is available from the lake. Book this campsite through BC Parks, $25 per person, per night.
Porcupine – This campground is located near the midpoint of the Citadel Pass route between Magog Lake and Sunshine Village. This is the best option for camping if you are backpacking in or out of the park along this trail. It has 10 tent sites, an outhouse, bear lockers, and a cooking area. Book this campsite through BC Parks, $25 per person, per night.
Marvel Lake – This is one of 2 campgrounds located at the midpoint of the route into Mount Assiniboine from the Mount Shark trailhead, also sometimes called the Bryant Creek trailhead. This is the best campsite if you’re hiking in or out via Marvel Lake or Wonder Pass. Book this campsite through Parks Canada, $15 per person, per night.
McBride – This is one of 2 campgrounds located at the midpoint of the route into Mount Assiniboine from the Mount Shark trailhead, also sometimes called the Bryant Creek trailhead. This is the best campsite if you’re hiking in or out via Assiniboine Pass. Book this campsite through Parks Canada, $15 per person, per night.
Big Springs – If you can’t get a reservation at Marvel Lake or McBride, there are two alternative campgrounds. Big Springs is located at km 7 of the Bryant Creek Trail from the Mount Shark trailhead, also sometimes called the Bryant Creek trailhead. This is a good alternative camping option regardless of which route you’re taking (Wonder Pass or Assiniboine Pass), since it’s located before the trail junction. Book this campsite through Parks Canada, $15 per person, per night.
Allenby Junction – This campsite is located at km 17 of the Bryant Creek Trail from the Mount Shark trailhead, also sometimes called the Bryant Creek trailhead. It would be my last choice if I couldn’t get reservations at Marvel Lake or McBride. The campsite is located along the Assiniboine Pass route, so it can’t be used if you plan to hike via Wonder Pass. Book this campsite through Parks Canada, $15 per person, per night.
Surprise Creek, Rock Lake, and Mitchell Meadows – All 3 of these campsites are located along the Simpson River Trail in Kootenay National Park. I haven’t visited any of these campsites, but I’ve heard that Mitchell Meadows is the most popular. If you can’t get bookings at any of the other campgrounds, consider taking this route instead as there are no reservations required. However, the trail is not as well maintained as other options and I highly recommend doing further research to ensure it is an appropriate route for your party.
The view along the Citadel Pass Trail from Sunshine Village
Itineraries
With so many access points, there are many different ways to plan a trip to Mount Assiniboine. So I’ll try and keep this as simple as possible with a few different hiking strategies.
Helicopter Access: Helicopter into the core area of the park and spend as many days as desired camping at Magog Lake and exploring the core area of the park. Plan for a day hike up the Nub, as well as some time exploring around to the many lakes. If you have enough time, day hiking up to Wonder Pass is also incredibly scenic! (recommend 2-3 nights)
Half Thru Hike: If you want to experience backpacking, but don’t have enough time to commit to a full thru hike, plan to take the helicopter one way and backpack the other. This way you can experience the beauty of the backcountry, along with the core area of Assiniboine Park. My recommendation is to fly into the park from Mount Shark and then hike back via Wonder Pass. This works well because it’s a net elevation loss on the way out, your pack will be lighter after eating your food, and your car will already be parked at the Mount Shark Trailhead from taking the helicopter. (recommend 3-4 nights)
Full Thru Hike: If you have the time and access to two vehicles, it’s well worth it to commit to doing an entire thru-hike, enjoying a few days in the core area of the park in the middle of your trip. As discussed, there are 3 access points into the park, but my recommendation is to hike in via Sunshine Village along the Citadel Pass Trail and out via Mount Shark along the Wonder Pass/Bryant Creek Trail. Stay at Porcupine Camp on the way in and Marvel Lake Camp on the way out. This is the most ideal route because you can bypass a lot of elevation gain on the way up by taking the Sunshine Gondola, and it’s a net downhill hike through Wonder Pass. Hiking in through the Simpson River Trailhead is also an option, but it’s a lot of elevation gain and not as scenic as Citadel Pass. (recommend 5 nights)
Loop Trail: Another great option if you can’t afford the helicopter or don’t have access to two vehicles is to do a loop hike from the Mount Shark Trailhead. There are two ways to access Assiniboine along this route: Wonder Pass or Assiniboine Pass. Both trails share the Bryant Creek Trail for ~10kms and then branch into two different trails. The Wonder Pass trail goes along the edge of Marvel Lake and up over Wonder Pass, whereas the Assiniboine Pass Trail follows an easier route up through the valley. I haven’t done the Assiniboine Pass route, but would recommend hiking in along that trail since it has less elevation gain, and then hiking out through Wonder Pass. Just make sure to check for any trail closures as sometimes part of the Assiniboine Trail is closed for breeding and conservation. (recommend 5 nights)
Fast Packing: I have no experience with fast packing, but for those who travel ultralight or are experienced trail-runners, some people do visit the park by completing the entire backpacking access trail in a single day rather than over 2 days. In some instances, hikers have paid to have their backpack carried in by helicopter, enabling them to move faster and complete the hike with only a day pack. I don’t recommend this option unless you are experienced, but it is something you can consider. (recommend 3-4 nights)
Wonder Pass in early summer (2021)
Day Hikes
There are several great options for day hiking in Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park. At the very least, I think everyone should hike up to the Nub or the Nublet and explore around the lakes, but there are several other options if you have the time. Here’s the trails I would recommend:
The Nub – If you want to get a birds-eye view of the park, this is one of the best day hikes. There is quite a bit of elevation gain from Magog Lake, but it’s well worth it for the incredible views. From the campsite, it’s a ~9km roundtrip trail with 600m of elevation gain.
The Niblet/Nublet – I highly recommend this trail for sunset. If you’re hiking up to the Nub, you’ll have to hike over both the Niblet and the Nublet, but if the Nub is too ambitious for you, these are great alternatives. The view from all of these locations is phenomenal at sunset as Sunburst Mountain turns orange when the sun goes down, but it is a long way down in the dark from the Nub, which is why the Nublet or the Niblet are great alternatives. From the campsite, it’s a ~7km roundtrip trail with 375m of elevation gain.
Wonder Pass – If you fly into the park or hike via one of the other access points, I highly recommend taking the time to hike up to Wonder Pass as a day trip. It’s much easier coming from Magog Lake than from Mount Shark. It’s a ~9km roundtrip trail with only 275m of elevation gain, so technically one of the easier hikes on this list. At the right time in the summer, the trail will be filled with wildflowers, and if you visit in the Fall, the larches will be turning yellow on the way up to the pass. From the top of the Pass, there’s an add-on hike up to Wonder Peak, but it’s fairly steep and not recommended for beginners. Please do additional research if you decide to attempt it.
The Lakes – There are 5 lakes in the core area of the park, not including Og Lake. If you have time to visit them all, I’d definitely recommend it, but at the very least, you must visit Magog Lake, Sunburst Lake and Cerulean Lake. Gog Lake and Elizabeth Lake are nice add-ons if you have the time. I made it my goal to swim in every single lake and I was successful! In my opinion, Sunburst Lake is the most scenic.
Og Lake – If I flew into the park, I would prioritize the other day hikes on this list over Og Lake, but if you have the time and are not hiking past it already, it is a fairly easy hike to go out and back to Og Lake from Magog Camp. It’s a 12km roundtrip trail, making it one of the longer hikes on this list, but there’s almost no elevation gain and it’s all through open meadows, so it’s not challenging. In the middle of the summer, there should be lots of wildflowers along this route, but keep in mind that on a hot day, the trail is completely exposed. There’s also the option to branch off and visit O’Brien Meadows if preferred.
Mitchell Meadows – I haven’t done this hike, but it’s an ~11km roundtrip trail to Mitchell Meadows, with minimal elevation gain, so it could be a nice hike if you have the time.
Mountaineering Routes – There are several mountaineering objectives in the area, which I will not discuss because I don’t have mountaineering experience and they shouldn’t be attempted by those without proper equipment. But other options for further research include Sunburst Peak, Mount Cautley, Naiset Peak, Cave Mountain, or Og Mountain.
Hiking around Marvel Lake on the way through Wonder Pass
Cathedral Park has been on my bucket list for a long time. I was supposed to visit the park in 2018, but my trip was cancelled due to a nearby forest fire. Fortunately, the fire never did reach the park, but I missed out on the opportunity. Even more unfortunately, another forest fire in 2023 (the Crater Creek fire) did breach the boundary of the park, doing a lot more damage to the area. The fire tore up the valley along Ashnola Road, burning everything in its wake and then continuing up towards the core area of the park.
Fortunately, the fire was contained before it burned everything, but a good chunk of the east part of the park was decimated, including 2 campgrounds and the access road. Parts of the core area of the park were saved, including the lodge (honestly, I think we have the lodge to thank that it didn’t all burn down, as I suspect they water bombed it). The park has been closed, but it was partially re-opened this summer. There used to be 3 campgrounds, but Lake-of-the-Woods and Pyramid Lake both burned down, leaving only the Quinescoe Campground.
The lodge did not burn down, but it’s not open due to the loss of the access road bridge. The road closure had a big impact on park usage in 2025. While it is possible to hike into the park, the access trail is 15km long and climbs 1400m in elevation, so it’s a big hike. Historically, most people have paid to use the lodge shuttle to access the park, even if they were camping, in order to avoid the challenging access trail. It appears that the bridge repair is almost complete, so I suspect the road will re-open in 2026, but for 2025, hiking was the only way to access the park.
When I saw the re-opening announcement, I impulsively booked permits for the Labour Day long weekend. Carolyn and I has planned to spend the weekend together and I thought Cathedral would be a nice option. In the past, it’s been hard to get permits for Cathedral because of its popularity, but with the road closure in 2025, it wasn’t a problem. Carolyn wasn’t really sold on the idea, but when she learned park usage was low due to the closed road – and that there were 5 lakes in the core park area – she quickly got on board with the idea. We decided to meet at the trailhead on Thursday night before the long weekend to spend 3 nights camping at Quinescoe Lake.
If you’ve been following along my previous posts, you’ll know that I was already on a road trip with Seth, so we all met up at the Lakeview Trailhead on Thursday evening. Accessing the park is a bit tricky as it’s not close to any cities. From Vancouver, it’s a 5-hour drive through Manning Park until you reach Keremeos. From there, you take Ashnola Road to the Park entrance. Ashnola Road is a gravel road, so it’s a bit slow going, but it’s in good shape and you can drive it in any vehicle. It was humbling to see all the damage from the forest fire on the way. Everything along the road has burned down, leaving many rec sites exposed. It’s a very fresh burn scar and it’s honestly hard to witness.
Once you reach the park entrance, there are two rec sites along the road, one is at the Lakeview Trailhead, and the other is a few kilometres away, called Buckhorn. We camped at Lakeview since that’s where we were leaving Carolyn’s car, but it only has a single walk-in site and no outhouse, so I wouldn’t recommend it. We ended up camping in the parking lot since we were the only ones there. I didn’t drive down to Buckhorn, but from the map, it looks like a more traditional rec site and I would recommend that one if you’re doing a similar trip.
There are actually 3 trails that hike into the core area of the park, but the Ewart Creek trail on the east side of the park is still closed because it completely burned. The most common access to the park (for the limited number of people who actually hike in) is the Lakeview Trail, which runs parallel to the backcountry road. In any other scenario, we would have hiked in and out on that trail. But because Seth was still with us and heading back to Vancouver the next day, we had the unique opportunity to do a thru hike. There’s a third trail, the Centennial Trail, that you can access from the west side of the park. At 16.5km and 1200m gain, it’s slightly longer and has slightly less gain than the Lakeview Trail. It’s another hour of driving to get to the trailhead, but Seth was nice enough to drop us off. So we left Carolyn’s car at Lakeview, with the intent to finish the trail there.
It was calling for a very hot weekend, so we got an early start. It’s a pretty steady incline for the first 8km of the trail. You get a reprieve when you reach the alpine, followed by another climb up to the Rim Trail, before you head down to the Quinescoe Lake Campground. We kept a steady pace on the initial uphill hike, which was forested, but after a few kms, we entered a burn scar. Because we knew the lodge hadn’t burned down, we thought the damage from the Crater Creek fire had been limited to the east half of the park, so we were disappointed to see the burned trunk. It looked like the damage along the Centennial Trail may have been from another fire, because it didn’t seem as recent, but I couldn’t confirm online.
In any case, it was exposed and hot along the trail, with no tree cover. We were wrong in assuming we’d have shade in the morning, so we ended up slogging through the first 8kms. Eventually we reached a plateau and found a small section of unburned forest where we were able to enjoy lunch. We both brought our helinox camping chairs, so we had a really nice break in the shade before setting off again. Fortunately, it got cloudier in the afternoon, so we had some relief from the heat by the time we reached the alpine. We hiked through nice meadows before starting the ascent up to the top of the Rim Trail.
The Rim Trail is one of many defining features in the park. There’s a cluster of lakes that are surrounded by a towering alpine ridge. It’s a very rocky park and it’s aptly named “Cathedral” because of all the stone monuments found along the Rim Trail, which encircles the core area in a 16km loop. We had to hike up to the ridge to connect with the Rim Trail at Scout Mountain before heading down to the lakes. It’s very exposed along the ridge and some dark clouds rolled in while we were hiking up to the pass. We were a little bit concerned about possible thundershowers while we were exposed, but fortunately the rain held off until we got to camp.
As we started hiking down, we could see a few larch trees that hadn’t burned, but we very quickly entered a complete burn zone. It was very eerie and sad to experience. It felt like there was a heaviness over the park the entire time we were there to the extent that I felt like we were almost grieving with the park. There’s a thick layer of black ash over everything and it was really dusty to hike through the burn scar. There’s absolutely no shelter and the only sign of life was the fireweed that had started to pop up. I lament the fact that we’ll never get to experience the park pre-fire. There are still some sections of unburned larch forest that were beautiful to witness – I can only imagine what it was like before.
It was a Friday night, so we didn’t expect the campsite to be very busy, but we were surprised to discover that we were the only people there, leaving 29 campsites empty. 2 girls did show up just before dark, so a total of 2 groups at this once popular site. More groups showed up on Saturday, but I think there were probably a total of only ~8 sites in use the entire long weekend.
We enjoyed the solitude on our first evening and went for a swim in the lake before watching the sunset. It’s an interesting campsite because, while bears are always a concern, mountain goats seem to be the bigger issue. Signs advise not to leave anything out that might entice the goats, and to only pee in the outhouse, as they are attracted to salt (so they will lick your pee off the ground). There are cages where you can put things you don’t want the goats to get, and of course, still a traditional bear hang (don’t use the goat cages for food!). We did see a mama and baby goat hanging around the campsite, which made a reappearance every day that we were there, as well as a few deer.
Carolyn had a very rough first night in the tent. Immediately after lying down, she commented that her sleeping pad had a leak. She found it very quickly and patched it up with tenacious tape, only to lie down again and immediately put another hole in it. We found a very sharp rock under the tent that had clearly put both holes in her pad. She patched that one up with tape too, but it caused her trouble all night. She’d get an hour of sleep, only for the tape to give out. We dug out some duct tape to try and fix it up and she had so many layers of tape on it. We didn’t want to waste our patch kit on a mediocre fix in the dark, so she suffered through the night on minimal sleep. The next day we fixed it with the patch kit, and fortunately, that solved the problem.
We got up early again to hike the Rim Trail. There’s lot of ways to customize this hike as there are several connector trails that come down at each lake. But I recommend just doing the whole thing because the connector trails are very steep and exposed. The highlight of the park is seeing Smokey the Bear (pictured above) and the Giant Cleft (pictured below), so we decided to do the trail clockwise to hit these highlights first. We ended up hiking the entire day without seeing a single other person, so it was a pretty special experience.
We started by hiking to Pyramid Lake and then climbed up through the trees to Ladyslipper Lake. Everything is burned to Pyramid Lake, but there’s still a small larch forest between Pyramid and Ladyslipper. It was early when we arrived at Ladyslipper, but we wanted to swim in all 5 lakes, so we stopped for a quick skinny dip. Ladyslipper Lake is really beautiful and I recommend hiking there even if you’re not doing the Rim Trail. At the end of the trip, Carolyn decided Ladyslipper Lake was her favourite lake in the park, but it was second on my list.
Once you leave Ladyslipper, be prepared to be in exposed terrain for the rest of the day. There’s a big climb after you leave the lake and the trail is not easy to follow (though it’s still hard to get lost). It’s obvious where you’re headed and it’s open terrain, so it’s a bit of a choose your own adventure up to the first plateau. You get a great view of the Giant Cleft as you hike up, and eventually the trail levels out briefly before you start a second steep climb to the top. This was probably the worst part of the hike, it’s a narrow exposed trail with lots of scree, so choose your path carefully. You’ll know you’re at the top when you see the junction and the sign for stone city.
It is a big day to do the entire Rim Trail. It took us almost 10 hours, but one of mine and Carolyn’s favourite things to do in the wilderness is film tiktok dances, so we stopped a lot to eat, film, and dance! Some people will just hike up to see the stone city and Smokey the Bear, returning the way they came. We had a quick break in the shade at the junction and then decided to do the 1km detour to see the rock features before lunch. I’m not really sure about the geological history of the park and how all of these stone formations came to be, but they have made it a special place for indigenous peoples and modern day visitors.
The first highlight is the stone city, which is a compilation of large scattered rocks, after which you arrive at Smokey the Bear. You can climb up to the top of Smokey, which we did, and then continue onto the Giant Cleft. This is exactly what it sounds like – a big gap in the cliffside. More adventurous hikers will scramble up Grimface Mountain, but we opted to turn around after the Giant Cleft, returning to the junction to eat lunch.
The rest of the hike is pretty straightforward as you circle around the top of the rim, but it is still surprisingly challenging. Like any ridge walk, while the net gain around the rim is minimal, there is a lot of up and downhill from peak to peak. Our first ascent was up to the Devils Woodpile, next to Pyramid Mountain, which has a great view of Ladyslipper Lake. The terrain is still really interesting because there’s a lot of rock, but over time, its become arranged into what looks like big waves of rock. I don’t know how this happens, but guessed it might be related to snowmelt, creating riverlike features. If I have any geologist readers, I’d love an opinion!
Our next milestone was hiking down to a lookout over Glacier Lake, before hiking up to the top of Quinescoe Mountain. Like I said, the trail isn’t always easy to follow and we got off it a few times throughout the day, but it’s always very obvious where you’re going, so we didn’t worry. The climb up Quinescoe Mountain wasn’t too bad, but we had one more ascent left on Red Mountain. It looked like a shorter and easier climb than Quinescoe, so we weren’t too worried about it, but it ended up being the worst one of the day.
The trail was the hardest to follow as Red Mountain was one big boulder field. You have to hop your way around the giant rocks up to the top, and then once there, the descent is even worse. My GPS track looks like we more or less followed the trail back down the mountain, but it sure didn’t feel like it! It was very steep and I felt unsure of myself in several areas because the boulders were so large. I was concerned about taking a wrong step and kicking up loose rocks. Fortunately, we made it to the bottom almost without incident, except that Carolyn’s bottle of electrolytes opened in her bag and coated everything in sticky, sugary liquid. Not her finest moment!
Eventually we reconnected with the Centennial Trail to follow our path from yesterday. We saw a few more deer on the way down, but were happy when we finally stumbled back to the campsite. There were a few more groups when we arrived, but overall, not very busy. We went for another swim before making supper for the evening. Tune back in next week to hear about the second half of the trip!
The Road Goes Ever On 