Hut Series: Elizabeth Parker

March 21, 2026March 18, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

If you’re at all familiar with backcountry huts in the Rockies, chances are you have heard of the Elizabeth Parker Hut. It’s an ACC hut located in Yoho National Park, approximately 0.5km from Lake O’Hara. Lake O’Hara is one of the most popular and exclusive places to visit in the summer because it is incredibly beautiful, offering access to the breathtaking Alpine Circuit. I’ve been to Lake O’Hara in the summer and I wrote an entire blog post about that trip and how to secure permits, so I won’t be getting into those details here.

Let’s talk about the Elizabeth Parker Hut. In the summer, access to the hut is managed through a paid lottery system. You pay a fee to enter the lottery and if you are successful, then you’re invited to book into the hut for a further fee. I entered the lottery once, with no luck, so I decided to abandon that strategy. I planned to visit in the winter instead. The hut is still busy on the weekends (and weekdays to an extent), but there’s no lottery, so as long as you are an ACC member and pay attention to the booking windows, you should be able to secure a booking. We decided to visit on a weekday in the winter, making the process even easier.

The challenge about visiting this hut in the winter is that there’s no shortcut to access it. In the summer, you can take the shuttle up the bus road, cutting out 11km of road-walking. In the winter, there’s no shortcut, you have to walk in the entire 11km road, plus the 0.5km trail to connect to the hut. This might not sound like a lot, but it is quite draining in the winter. It’s not a hard trail, but it is long and has a pretty steady uphill for most of it. The road does pass through a small section of avalanche run-out terrain in the first 5km, but for the most part, it’s a pretty safe trail. The one section goes through a run-out zone, rather than active avalanche terrain, so if the avalanche rating isn’t high, you don’t have too much to worry about.

There’s a few ways that you can get there. The most common way seems to be cross-country skiing, which surprised me a little bit because there is a lot of uphill on the way there. I’d recommend having skins, but it’s a wide trail and very manageable. The attraction of cross-country skiing is that the skis are so much lighter, so it makes for a faster journey along the 11km road. Another option is ski touring, which is what we did. This is great if you want to do some touring and skiing from the hut, but touring skis are a lot wider and heavier, so we did find it very tiring. The last option is snowshoeing. There was no one on snowshoes when we stayed at the hut, but there was a big group heading in on snowshoes when we were leaving. I wouldn’t recommend spikes unless you’re sure it’s hard packed with no fresh snow incoming.

If you’re planning to visit, give yourself ample time as there is limited daylight in the winter. We didn’t do a great job at this because we had stayed at the A.O. Wheeler Hut the previous night, which meant we had to hike out 1.5km in the morning, drive to Field, and then do the 11.5km hike to the Elizabeth Parker Hut. This was made worse by the fact that we transitioned from Pacific Time to Mountain Time and lost an hour.

We didn’t start hiking until almost 1pm. It was mid February, so we had ~5.5hours of daylight. It took us 5 hours, compared to some cross country skiers, who were able to do it in 4 hours. I was feeling pretty good when we started, I figured I’d probably skied around 2km when I came across the trail marker for 1km, and that’s when I had to stop myself from despairing, as I knew we were in for a long day. If we’d started earlier, we could have taken our time and lots of breaks, but because we had limited daylight, we pretty much pushed forward all afternoon. We took one lunch break at the 5km mark, but otherwise only stopped to pee or re-adjust layers and equipment.

The biggest challenge for me was temperature control. It was around -20 degrees celsius when we did the trail, which is extremely hard to manage when you are working out. Normally, I would ditch my warm layers and just wear a base layer so that I wouldn’t be sweating into everything, but the challenge was that I was quite a bit faster than Brandon, who uses a splitboard. So I was continually having to start and stop, and I would get cold whenever I had to wait, so I didn’t want to layer down.

I managed well for the first half of the trail. There’s some picnic tables and a beautiful viewpoint at the 5km mark, so we stopped for a late lunch there. The weather was quite nice, mostly overcast, but there was some blue sky and we could see all the mountains, so it was very scenic. Around ~8km there’s a beautiful view of the glacier, so it was a nice hike, just very long. I definitely started crashing out around the 8km mark. I ate my snacks along the way, but our water bottles were becoming more and more frozen and I really needed an energy boost and a hot drink. Brandon put electrolyte powder in his water, which I wouldn’t recommend, because it turned the whole thing to slush. The trick is to store your water bottle upside down so that the lid doesn’t freeze on, and carry a thermos.

We finally made it to the hut around 6pm and I was so relieved to see the steam rising out of the chimney. There was a large group already inside the hut and I all but collapsed on the bench and started removing my boots, enjoying the toasty warm heat from the woodstove. The group consisted of 3 families and a lot of kids and they quickly encouraged us to move over to the Wiwaxy Cabin next door.

I didn’t realize there was a second sleeping cabin and their assumption that we would be more comfortable not sleeping with their big group was correct, but the group rubbed me the wrong way for most of the trip. It wasn’t appealing having to immediately go into another cold space and start a fire immediately after arriving. We managed fine, but the group was not respectful of the shared kitchen and dining facilities, spreading out and leaving a mess. Every time we tried to use the dining area I had to ask someone to move things so we could use a corner of the table. Although I will credit the dads for changing out one of the outhouse barrels while we were there.

But the Wiwaxy Cabin was very cozy. The main hut has a large bunk room that sleeps 16 people in the same room as the dining tables and woodstove. There are lots of racks to hang gear, but it definitely has more of a cluttered feeling than the Wheeler Hut, though that may have just been because the 3 families spread out everywhere. The Wiwaxy Cabin sleeps 8 on the bunks and has a small table and a woodstove, but no kitchen, so everyone has to use the main hut to cook. We quite liked the Wiwaxy Cabin, it was very cozy and we were the only ones in there on the first night, though we were joined by 3 more people on the second night. Once we got the fire going, it was quite warm. The woodstove was very efficient and it was pretty hot overnight, but we didn’t want the fire to die with -20 degrees outside, so we kept it going all night.

On our second day, there was less blue sky, but you could still see all of the mountains and it snowed pretty lightly throughout most of the day. We had breakfast and did our chores, namely restocking our woodpile (Brandon did a great job), before going out for a tour. It was the middle of the week, so we didn’t encounter any day users, it seemed to be just us and the family in the area. We didn’t have a lot of concrete plans of what to do for the day, and we debated between hiking up to Schaffer Lake or down to Lake O’Hara. Neither is very far, so we opted to hike up to Schaffer Lake to take a look at Mount Schaffer, which I’d read is popular for skiing.

There’s no trail markers to follow in the winter, but there is a pretty obvious route up through the trees. It’s only 1km from the hut, so it’s not a long way to go. We hiked up to the lake, which has a great view looking up on the base of Mount Schaffer. There was a lot of fresh snow and we could see a few lines coming down from previous visitors. We hadn’t actually planned to ski because I am pretty nervous in avalanche terrain, but the conditions were ideal when we were there. There was some fresh powder, but the avalanche rating was low to moderate and there were no slab problems. So we decided to hike up through the trees to ski down the main slope.

There were ski tracks coming down from quite high, but we only went about two thirds of the way up because we didn’t want to be in super steep terrain. So we hiked up and then picked a spot to transition. As with the previous day, the most challenging part of the trip was temperature management. It was still very cold, so it was challenging to transition and I added a lot of layers before skiing down. It was a short ski out, but probably one of the coolest lines I’ve ever done. It was my first time skiing in avalanche terrain, and I keep having second thoughts about it when I look back on the experience, but at the time I was feeling confident about the conditions and everything went according to plan, so I guess it was our first real touring line.

We just did one line since we’re pretty new to touring, but if I was to go back, I think I’d do a few more. My ski touring journey isn’t really driven by skiing epic lines, which sometimes makes me feel a bit at odds with other ski tourers I meet, as most seem very obsessed with skiing remote terrain. But maybe I’ll care more as I get more comfortable in avalanche terrain, but for right now, I like just being outside on skis, enjoying nature, and building up my experience.

We had a fun second night as we were joined by a couple that we had met at Wheeler Hut, as well as a single guy on holiday from Korea, who we were all impressed with as it was his first time skiing! They all came in on cross-country skis, which seems to be easier on a long access trail. We spent the evening playing cards and the couple shared a special moment the next morning and got engaged in front of the mountains!!

The sun came out to play on our last day and we woke up to a bluebird day in the mountains. It was still very cold, but at least we had the sun shining down to warm us up a little bit. We weren’t in a big rush to leave, but after packing everything up, we skied down to Lake O’Hara to enjoy the view before skiing out. Lake O’Hara is one of the most renowned views in the Canadian Rockies and it does not disappoint. It was very smoky when I visited in the summer of 2023, so dare I say, the winter view is even better? I felt like I was on another planet as we skied across the lake to get an incredible view of the surrounding mountains. Plus, we were the only people there, so it felt very special.

Usually the ski out is a lot more fun than the ski in, but the road is not a simple downhill the whole way, so it was still a lot of work to ski out. Ideally you would take off your skins and just ski down, but there are still lots of flat sections. I planned to just skin the whole way down, but there was still a lot of powder on the trail and it was really hard to pick up any speed on the downhill. So eventually we took our skins off and I was planning to just skate ski the flat sections, but it was too powdery for that too. However, because I was on skis, I was able to just put them back in touring mode without the skins in order to ski the flats and I did several kms that way. But Brandon was on a split board so he ended up carrying his snowboard through the flats.

It was still faster than the way in and we stopped again at the picnic tables for lunch, where there was a large group of women snowshoeing in. It’s 5km from the picnic tables and I put the skins back on for the first 3km, which are really flat. But the last 2km is the steepest part of the trail, so at that section, I was able to properly transition and ski out the final 2km pretty quickly. In total, it took us 5 hours on the way in and 3.5 hours on the way out.

Lake O’Hara is definitely a beautiful place to visit and we had a great time, but it is a slog on that road and I was really glad that we had planned to stay for two nights. It would have been a lot to ski in and out for only 1 night. If you’re dying to visit O’Hara and haven’t been able to secure summer permits, I definitely recommend checking out the hut in the winter. It’s much easier to reserve and in my opinion, the experience is even more special because there’s barely anyone around (at least on the weekdays). We had a great time!

Hut Series: A.O. Wheeler

March 14, 2026March 13, 2026 / Maria / 1 Comment

Last winter I set myself a goal of visiting more huts, planning 3 separate trips across the season. As is often the case in winter, the avalanche conditions didn’t align with my trips and I ended up bailing on two of three huts. Fortunately, I had a fantastic time at the Elfin Hut, but was left feeling a bit disappointed about the other trips.

This winter I planned 4 hut trips! The first trip was a bust again, due to weather, and one trip has yet to happen, but I was successful in visiting two of the ACC huts in mid February! The ACC is the Alpine Club of Canada, which is a great organization if you’re looking to grow your mountaineering skills. It has an annual membership, but one of the unique features of being a member is access to a large network of huts throughout BC and Alberta, as well as the ability to participate in trainings, trips, and events. You can still stay in the huts if you are not a member, but you get priority booking as a member (and a small discount on the cost), so it can be hard to book some of the huts without having the advance booking privileges.

I’m no stranger to snow camping and have spent many trips sleeping in the snow in a tent. But since I’ve taken up ski touring, I have to admit, there’s a certain advantage to staying in huts and being able to travel with a smaller pack. It’s much harder to ski with a full pack that includes a -30 degree sleeping bag and a winter tent, so we’ve largely switched to hut camping in the winter.

Since most of the ACC huts are located in the Rocky Mountains, this year I decided to plan a whole trip around skiing in the Rockies. I took one week off work and planned to do a few days resort skiing at Revelstoke with friends, before doing some ski touring with Brandon to the A.O. Wheeler Hut in Glacier National Park and the Elizabeth Parker Hut in Yoho National Park. We planned to finish with a day of resort skiing at Kicking Horse, but I ended up bailing on that day to rest and watch some of the Olympic finals.

After 3 days in Revelstoke, Brandon and I overpacked his 4runner to drive an hour to the Wheeler trailhead in Glacier National Park. I am, of course, talking about the Glacier Park located in BC, and not the one located in Montana. I feel like this park is hugely underrated and I’ve been wanting to explore more of it, so we booked one night at the Wheeler Hut to check it out.

The Wheeler Hut is one of the ACC’s most accessible huts and it’s a great option in the winter especially. In the summer, it’s basically located at the parking lot next to Illecillewaet Campground, but in the winter, you have to use the winter lot, so it’s a flat 1.5km hike to the hut instead. There’s a small picnic shelter and outhouse located at the trailhead. It’s a short walk up through the trees, and then it’s dead flat for 1.5km on a wide winter road. There’s no avalanche risk along the road, so you can feel pretty confident in visiting it at any time of year, regardless of your skill level.

When we visited, literally everyone in the cabin was on touring skis, most of which were planning to ski some bigger terrain nearby, but this would still be a good hut to visit on snowshoes or cross country skis. It was the middle of the week, so I think the hut likely attracts more families on weekends. I didn’t have any trouble booking the hut for a weeknight, and it wasn’t full, but I believe it’s very popular on the weekends. Booking through the ACC, you get access to bookings 6 months ahead of your travel date if you are a member, or 3 months ahead of your travel date if you are not a member.

In addition to the hut booking, there are several permits that are required from Parks Canada. You will need the standard Parks Canada Pass to leave in your vehicle, which is currently free in the summer, but still comes for a fee in the winter. You can buy it as an annual pass for your party, which we already had, or you can buy a day pass for each person on the trip. If you’re going to spend more than a week with 2 people in National Parks, I recommend the annual pass.

In addition to the Parks Pass, you are also required to obtain a free Winter Permit from Parks Canada if you are recreating in Glacier National Park. It’s a really interesting park because the Trans Canada Highway runs through the middle, which is extremely mountainous and potentially dangerous in the winter. The road passes through Rogers Pass, which has a bit of a reputation locally. Because the highway runs straight through the mountains, there is considerable avalanche risk, which is managed using explosives. In fact, Glacier National Park is home to the world’s largest mobile avalanche control program.

As a result, sections of the park are regularly shut down for avalanche control and it is completely illegal and extremely dangerous to be in those sections of the park when they are closed (as they will be setting off explosives and triggering avalanches). In order to manage the risk and ensure that people know how to check where they should and shouldn’t be, Parks Canada requires every single visitor recreating in the park to obtain a free Winter Permit every winter. In order to get the permit, you have to learn about the avalanche control program and complete a 30 minute quiz. It’s not difficult, but at the end you will receive a winter permit and parking pass.

If you’re staying at the Wheeler Hut, you’ll require a hut booking, the standard National Park Pass, the Winter Permit, the Winter Pemit Parking Pass, and an Overnight Parking Pass, which you can obtain from emailing Parks Canada (instructions are included as part of the Winter Permit process). It does sound quite complicated, but once you complete the Winter Permit quiz, the requirements will become much more obvious.

Once you’ve obtained all the appropriate permits, you’re ready for a fun trip to the hut. I was on touring skis and Brandon was on a splitboard, so it didn’t take us too long to get to the hut. The trail looks flat, but I think it might be ever so slightly uphill on the way there, because we were a lot faster on the way out. We arrived at the hut around 12:30pm and it was completely empty because all the current residents were out ski touring for the day. We had lunch and set up our beds before getting ready to go out and do a little exploring of our own.

I’m not super knowledgeable on the terrain around the Wheeler Hut, so I’ll just give a quick overview. If you don’t have Avalanche Safety Training, you’ll want to stick pretty close to the hut when exploring, but there are a few relatively safe options to check out. There are two trails from the hut, which includes the Perley Rock/Sir Donald Trail and the Asulkan Valley Trail. I didn’t do the Perley Rock Trail, which is closest to the hut, but you can follow it along the river in simple terrain for 1-2km. Stick to flat terrain – once the trail starts to get steeper or exposed to open mountain slopes, it’s time to turn around.

We opted to take the Asulkan Valley Trail, which starts in a meadow as opposed to the trees. We followed the trail until we hit a branch, where we took the left fork onto the Great Glacier Trail. We followed that trail for ~1km, until we hit the Illecelliwaet River, where there is a great view of some really big mountain terrain. That’s where we opted to turn around because we didn’t want to expose ourselves to any risk and the avalanche forecast was considerable.

Another option is to continue further up the Asulkan Valley Trail, from what I understand, you can go another half a kilometre up that trail until you hit a bridge, after which point it’s time to turn around. So overall, there are 3 potential routes, which are all ~3km round trip from the hut. When we visited the hut, we were the only people visiting for just 1 night. Everyone else was staying for multiple nights to go ski touring, with the most popular route being to tour the whole way up the Asulkan Valley Trail, where there is a second ACC hut, the Asulkan Cabin. I hadn’t done enough research to be comfortable with this route at the time, so we played it safe. I talked to a few skiers that did the trail and I think with a bit more background, this would be a good option for me in the future.

In spite of the higher avalanche conditions, the weather was quite nice. It was overcast all day, but it also snowed all day, leaving a nice layer of fresh powder to ski. We seemed to be the only people to take the Great Glacier Trail on that day, so there was several cms of fresh snow, which was nice. We returned to the hut for supper and the atmosphere was much livelier as people rolled in from their day of exploring. There was a large group staying at the hut, which is often annoying, but I will credit this group with being really respectful of hut norms. They took care of most of the hut chores, chopping a ton of firewood, keeping the woodstoves going, and making sure there was always a steady rotation of drinking water available in the large pots. So Brandon and I had it quite easy!

There is a creek near the hut where you can get drinking water. I’m not sure if the creek is normally open year round, but it was when we visited, which made water supply a lot easier. It’s so much faster than having to melt snow and a much nicer quality for drinking as well. Overall, the Wheeler hut is pretty swanky and exceeded all my expectations. It’s a large hut and it did feel busy, but it was under capacity on the night we stayed there, with lots of empty beds.

You enter from the back of the hut and there’s a small room to take off your boots, followed by the first of 3 main rooms. The first room has a woodstove and a table, but I would consider it to primarily be the gear drying room. There’s a bunch of racks for boots and lots of places to hang gear. The middle room is a large kitchen and cooking area. You don’t need to bring a stove or fuel, as there are several propane burners. You also don’t need to bring any dishes or utensils. We opted to bring our own small pot because we were just cooking dehydrated food and the provided pots tend to be quite large, but we didn’t need any other kitchen equipment, aside from some camp suds and a hand towel.

The last room is the main eating and hang out room and has a large fireplace. This is where we spent the rest of the evening. The large group was at one table, and most of the other smaller groups were at the other table. We had a nice chat with 2 brothers who were visiting from Ontario in order to go touring, and a group of 3 from Calgary. They saw me teaching Brandon how to play crib and recognized a fellow card lover, so I ended up joining them for several rounds of cards. I’ve already forgotten the name of the game. I only planned to play a few rounds before going to bed, but got sucked in when I couldn’t win a single hand. I ended up losing spectacularly, but I had a great time!

In addition to the three rooms on the main floor, there are 3 rooms of bunks upstairs, so it’s a very large capacity hut. Sleeping mats are provided, but I opted to bring my thermarest anyways because my quilt and thermarest together weigh less than my full size sleeping bag (and I didn’t want to lay directly on the mats in my quilt). Brandon brought his thermarest too because he was concerned about being cold on the mats, but it’s plenty warm in the hut with 2 woodstoves, so that wasn’t a concern.

It’s a nice set-up for sleeping, but I didn’t get much sleep because as soon as everyone went to bed, the symphony of snores started. This is to be expected at a hut and I did have earplugs, but it was so loud even that couldn’t drown them out. In future I would probably bring earbuds so that I could put on some music, I think that would have been more effective.

We were up early because we had to ski out, drive to Field, and then ski 12km up to Lake O’Hara on the same day. We were the first people to get up and the fire had gone out completely, so we got it re-started and then had a quick breakfast before heading out again. It was a beautiful day and we saw lots of blue sky on our early morning hike out. One night at the hut did seem a bit short, but it was a good length for what we planned to do, especially since we arrived early on the first day. In any case, Elizabeth Parker Hut was the real highlight of our trip, so tune back in next week to learn about that hut!

Hut Series: Elfin Lakes

January 22, 2025January 22, 2025 / Maria / 5 Comments

Are you tired of reading about my trips to Elfin Lakes yet? I’ve visited Elfin Lakes more than any other trail, but I’m still not tired of writing about it because I feel like every time I go there I experience something new!

Despite having spent a lot of time at Elfin Lakes, this was only my second time going there in the middle of winter, and it was my first time actually staying in the hut! So it prompted me to kick off a new blog series about BC’s extensive hut system. Aside from the Sunshine Coast Trail, which has a 180km network of huts, and Tetrahedron, I believe this was my first time staying in a hut, especially in the winter. So it might take me a bit of time to build up some hut content, but we all start somewhere! After many years of thinking about it, I finally signed up to be a member of the Alpine Club of Canada, so I’m hoping there will be a few more hut trips in my future.

But let’s talk about Elfin Lakes! If you’re not familiar, it’s a very popular trail in Garibaldi Provincial Park. You can visit it any time of year as a day user, but you do need a reservation and permit to camp overnight in the park. These are fairly easy to get on weekdays, but if you want to visit on a weekend, make sure you book as soon as the reservations release, which is 4 months before your desired trip dates. My friend Victoria took care of the bookings for us and 4 of us planned to go up to the hut during the first weekend in January.

The parking lot for Elfin Lakes is called the Diamond Head Parking Lot, and from there it’s an 11km hike to the shelter. In the winter, snow tire chains are required to reach the parking lot. You can drive most of the way there with winter tires, but the last 2km are steep and chains are mandatory. If you don’t have them, you can park at the lower lot and add 2km to your trip. We drove in Brandon’s 4runner and made it all the way to the trailhead.

The first 5km of the trail is super easy. It follows an old logging road up to the Red Heather Hut. It’s a fairly wide trail through the trees. There was fresh snow when we visited, so it looked really scenic, but sometimes the snow does melt at the lower elevations, so while it’s a gentle incline up to Red Heather, there’s not always snow all the way from the parking lot. Red Heather Hut is a picnic hut for day use only (you can’t camp in it). It doesn’t see much use in the summer, but it is really popular in the winter. From December to April, you can get a backcountry permit to snow camp at Red Heather (or Elfin Lakes), and these usually don’t sell out. The permits for the Elfin Lakes shelter will sell out on weekends.

Red Heather is most popular for day users in the winter. From Red Heather Hut, it’s another ~1km to hike up to the top of Round Mountain, which is really popular among backcountry skiers and split-boarders. People put skins on the bottom of their skis to climb up to the top of Round Mountain, and then ski a few laps down to the hut, before returning to the parking lot. The last time I visited Elfin Lakes in the winter was in 2019. We snowshoed to the lake and snow camped outside the shelter. This time, I hiked up on touring skis! There were 4 of us in total, me and Victoria were on skis, while Brandon and Emma were on split-boards.

We stopped at Red Heather Hut for lunch and then continued our hike up to the top of Round Mountain. This is the steepest part of the journey and we were pretty tired by the top we reached the top. We didn’t do any skiing from Round Mountain because we had to continue another 5km to reach the Elfin Lakes shelter.

Because Elfin Lakes is so popular, it’s easy to think that means it’s a safe area. It is relatively safe. I don’t think the trail is in avalanche terrain at all up to Red Heather Hut, but after the hut, there is definitely some avalanche risk. The first time I snowshoed there, I didn’t have my AST training and was definitely taking a risk by hiking there. Now that I know better, I wouldn’t recommend it. Get your AST1 and avalanche safety equipment before attempting to visit Elfin Lakes. I’ve written a whole blog post on avalanche safety as part of my Let’s Talk safety series.

The avalanche risk was moderate on the day we visited. The two sections of trail where you need to exercise extra caution are: around the back of Round Mountain and around Paul’s Ridge. The section behind Round Mountain in particular goes through challenging avalanche terrain. We all had beacon, probe, and shovel, and once we hit this section, we put more distance between each other as we crossed through the more technical terrain. I was leading at the time, so I would go through a section, wait for Victoria to clear it, and then proceed to the next section while she waited for Emma. We did this section by section to ensure that if there was an avalanche, we wouldn’t all be buried.

We’re all relatively new to touring – it was their first season for Brandon, Victoria, and Emma. Brandon and Emma struggled on the way to Elfin because they are both boarders and still getting used to being on skis, so it was good to have the group split in half. Me and Victoria mostly looked out for each other, while Emma and Brandon did the same. The last 5km are easier than the first half of the trail, it’s more flat, with small uphill and downhill sections, but it took the boarders some time to adjust. That said, they improved really quickly and we made much faster time on the way back!

One thing to be wary of when visiting Elfin Lakes is that there is a different trail from Round Mountain to Elfin Lakes in the winter. BC Parks stakes the entire trail, so it’s very easy to follow, but if you’re relying on GPS, make sure you upload the winter trail and don’t try and follow the route for the summer trail. This section of trail is incredibly scenic and it was my favourite part of the day. Unfortunately, it was completely overcast on our way there, so we didn’t see any of the surrounding landscape, but it wasn’t windy, so the conditions were good. It was quite windy when I snowshoed there in 2019, which makes for a much more challenging traverse.

It’s a lot more fun crossing this section on skis. There’s a fair bit of downhill on the way to the shelter. Not enough to remove your skins and clip into your skis, but it made it a lot more fun to travel across the ridge. Everyone had a few wipeouts along the way! We dubbed our new ski club, “the turtles”, because you look/feel like a turtle whenever you wipe out due to the weight of your overnight packs pulling you backwards. Plus we were ecstatic to realize there were 4 of us and that we matched the 4 teenage mutant ninja turtles! (I’m Raphael)

It took us ~6.5 hours to get to the hut, including our lunch break, so we were traveling at a speed of ~2km/h. Once the split-boarders get a little more experienced, I think we could probably shave an hour off the time (every time you wipeout, it takes a while to unclip from your skis and get ready again, especially with the overnight pack). We arrived at the hut around 3:30pm in the afternoon and spent the rest of the evening relaxing! It’s a two story hut that can sleep ~30 people. There’s a bunch of picnic tables on the main floor, along with shared propane burners and a propane furnace. There are lots of large pots to use for melting snow and people mostly used the communal pots and burners as a shared resource for melting snow for drinking water. Generally, everyone could help themselves to the water and then just add some more snow to the pot. Most people had their own stoves for cooking food.

Emma brought a wheel of camembert cheese to share, along with bread and charcuterie! She baked the cheese wheel and it was a delicious afternoon snack! We took it easy for the rest of the evening, played some cards and ate dinner. Most people at the hut were on skis, but there were a few snowshoers there as well. Given that there were 30 people in the hut, I was expecting that there would be at least a few noisy partiers and was prepared to not sleep well. So I was thrilled when it turned out everyone at the hut were early-to-bed campers! The hut was completely silent with everyone in bed by 8:45pm!!! I still didn’t sleep well, but there were no really noisy snorers, so it was really the best sleeping conditions we could have hoped for.

As a result, everyone was also up early for a big day of touring. Some people continued to go skiing around the Saddle, but most people were heading back to the parking lot. We had a bit of a slow start after Victoria had a mishap with her breakfast. She frantically woke us up with the choice phrase of, “we’ve been robbed!”, which left us all a little confused as she tried to explain exactly what had happened.

She had brought a huge breakfast to share with Brandon and Emma (I declined on this occasion because I was trying to keep my pack light). She hung her food bag high on the porch to keep it cool overnight and unfortunately something walked off with the entire bag of food! We thought the only visitors would be mice, but there’s obviously some other animals prowling the area. My guess is it was either a bobcat or a lynx. We felt really bad about an animal getting access to human food and the plastic waste that will now be somewhere in the wilderness, but all Victoria was able to find were a few small scraps of her dry bag. So a lesson learned for us!

Fortunately, we all were prepared with extra food (especially Emma, who brought 3 extra sandwiches out of fear of excessive hunger), so it wasn’t hard to scrounge up a substitute breakfast. We ended up leaving the hut around 11am and the return trip was a lot faster. In contrast to the previous day, we had amazing conditions! It was a sunny, blue sky day and we could see the breathtaking views of the Garibaldi backcountry! There was a little bit of fog moving around throughout the day, but it honestly just made the views even more scenic. I loved skiing along the ridge back to Round Mountain.

Once we got around Round Mountain, we stopped to take off our skins and strap into our skis (and boards). From Round Mountain, it’s all downhill back to the parking lot, so we were able to properly ski. The section from Round Mountain to Red Heather is the most exciting, with lots of open area to explore. There was A LOT of powder. It might be the most powder I’ve ever skied, which sounds exciting, but was a new challenge to manage. Victoria and Emma blasted down to the hut, but I took my time. It was really fun in the powder, but it is a challenge to balance with the overnight pack. I did have one pretty spectacular wipeout where I picked up too much speed and my pack tipped me over when I tried to turn.

We ate lunch at Red Heather Hut again and it only took us about a half hour to ski the 5km back down the logging road to the car. The sun was definitely heating up the trails and it felt like spring skiing. There wasn’t as much snow as we approached the base and I had to avoid a few thin patches. But the lighting through the trees was gorgeous and we all had a great time despite the aching thighs!

I feel like this trip was very much the realization of a dream I’ve been working on for the past 3 years. I’ve always been intrigued about touring, but I was intimidated by it for a long time and didn’t want to invest in the equipment. When I decided to replace my downhill skis 3 years ago, I knew it was time to finally get a backcountry set-up. I loved pretty much everything about this trip!

The conditions were amazing, the company was fantastic, and the views were gorgeous! As fun as it is to go downhill, traversing the ridge ended up being my favourite part of the adventure. I felt a lot more confident on my touring skis and it was more fun than snowshoeing. Even though the ridge is fairly flat, it’s somehow way more fun on skis! I’ve always wanted to stay in the Elfin Hut and it was a great first overnight touring trip. I felt that we were all safe and made good decisions. I absolutely can’t wait to keep exploring on my skis, improve my skills, and have more adventures! Thanks for coming along for the ride!