Since I finally took the time to write about Cape Spear, an iconic Newfoundland landmark and iconic day trip, I figured it’s time to finally write about Signal Hill as well. Signal Hill is a quintessential attraction in St. John’s. It can be seen from all over the city and it’s a significant historic and cultural national site, not to mention it has the best view of St. John’s to be found in the city.
Signal Hill is home to Cabot Tower and overlooks St. John’s harbour. There’s a military encampment that surrounds the hill and has been used for centuries to protect St. John’s from naval threats. You can walk around the hill and see all the old cannons, which still stand guard over the harbour. One of the more iconic defense strategies that’s been utilized at Signal Hill is stringing a large chain across the Narrows of the harbour to protect from both ships and submarines. Cabot Tower is also recognized for it’s significance in the advancement of communications, as it’s where Marconi sent the first trans-Atlantic communication from Newfoundland to Ireland (and I’m guessing this is where the name ‘Signal’ Hill comes from).
There’s a really nice visitor centre halfway up the hill, which is staffed by Parks Canada. They give fantastic tours in the summer. You can see the firing of the noon-day gun, or you can watch the Signal Hill Tattoo, which is a re-enactment of the military drills of the Royal Newfoundland Regiment in the late 1700’s. Right across the street, you can visit the Johnson Geo Centre and learn about the fascinating geoscience to be found on “the Rock”. Then drive to the top of the hill to visit Cabot Tower and see the cannons.
But the most popular use of Signal Hill by locals is for a scenic and short hike. It’s only ~4km to do the loop around the hill, but give yourself some time because there is a lot of stairs and you’ll want to take photos. The locals are a bit split on the best way to hike the trail. The largest section of stairs is at the top of the hill. Some people prefer to hike up the stairs for the workout, while others prefer to hike down them. While I love a good uphill hike, I always hike down them. I used to do this because I’m lazy, but now I do it because you get to enjoy the view looking out at the Atlantic Ocean when you hike down.
If you start at the top, which I think most tourists probably do, you begin by hiking down the stairs and around the coast. The trail follows some pretty narrow cliff edges along the Narrows into the harbour, before you arrive at the Battery. There is one chain section, but it’s not intimidating. You don’t need to pull yourself up or anything, it’s just a narrow trail, so there’s a chain to act as a rail. The Battery is an old and historic neighbourhood of the city along the edge of the harbour. It’s filled with colourful historic homes, also known as jelly bean houses. Once you exit the trail, you walk up through the Battery. This part can be a bit tricky – if you want, you can just follow the road, but there is a staircase shortcut hidden among the houses, so watch for the signs as you go up, because it’s a more scenic way to travel.
From this trail, you hike back up towards the duck pond across from the Geo Centre. There’s a nice lookout of the harbour, and some storyboards with more historic information about the city’s military history. From here, a lot of people will opt to hike up the road, but if you know where to look, there’s a trail that continues along the back of Gibbet Hill towards the Visitors Centre. From there, you an hike up the hillside to the cannons before reaching Cabot Tower and the end of the hike.
Like I said, a lot of people will start at the top, but my preference is to park across the street from the Geo Centre at the duck pond. I don’t like ending on a big hill, so this way, you do a good chunk of uphill first, then all the downhill, then a bit more uphill to get back from the Battery. It’s a good balance. But you really can’t go wrong. It’s taken me years to properly learn where all the trails are, so just make an adventure of it. Be careful around the cliffsides, but anywhere you end up will be beautiful!
Another option for climbing up to the top is to cross the road and walk up the trail at Georges Pond. It’s a longer route, but allows you to see the view from Cuckold’s Cove. You hike out past Georges Pond until you come to a junction. If you continued straight, you’d find yourself hiking into the historic village of Quidi Vidi, but take the right turn to head up to Ladies Lookout at the top of Signal Hill. It gives you a nice view of Cuckholds Cove, and if you look down from the first viewpoint, you might be lucky enough to see the Cuckhold’s Cove eagle in her nest.
I moved to BC 11 years ago and I haven’t made a single trip home where I didn’t go to Signal Hill. I won’t hike it in the winter if there’s snow, because it gets really slippery, but I will always hike it at least once in the summer. It takes me about an hour, but as a tourist, I’d give yourself 2 hours to really enjoy it! It’s an iconic piece of St. John’s history and well worth the visit!
