Jade Lake Backpacking Trip

December 18, 2024December 20, 2024 / Maria / 1 Comment

After a rainy night at Eva Lake, we packed our bags to continue on to Jade Lake. There’s a short hike back to a junction where you can do a detour down to Miller Lake. Every lake in this park is gorgeous and it’s definitely worth the extra 1km to hike to Miller Lake. The clouds were starting to lift and we got some cool views of the vibrant blue water before heading onwards. I really wanted to swim in Eva and Miller Lakes, but I was pretty chilled from the rain, so I’ll have to return and swim in those lakes one day!

The trail to Jade Lake is absolutely phenomenal. It’s ~7km from Eva to Jade, including the side trail to Miller. Once leaving Miller Lake, you hike back to the junction and then continue up to the alpine by crossing the edge of Miller Lake along the mountainside. After a bit of uphill, you reach the alpine and cross through numerous meadows filled with wildflowers. Then there’s a steeper uphill and you eventually reach the top of the pass. I’m not sure the technical name of the pass, but we called it Jade Pass.

From Jade Pass, there are amazing views of the alpine and surrounding mountains looking down on Jade Lake. I’m sure this park is really beautiful on a clear, blue sky day, but I honestly feel lucky that we got to visit it on a cloudy day. The clouds were large and dynamic, constantly moving around the landscape, revealing the mountain range beyond. It was a very cool experience. We stopped for lunch at the top of the pass to enjoy the view. There were quite a few more day hikers around since it was a Saturday, but we didn’t see anyone heading down to the lake.

Jade Lake is stunning and absolutely worth the hike down from the pass, but I can understand why a lot of day hikers don’t do it. It adds another 2km each way, as well as 200m of elevation gain. No one wants to hike down there, just to have to turn around and hike back up. Before we left, I hiked up a little further to a nearby peak for some extra photos, before shouldering my pack again for the hike to the valley. You’re in the alpine for most of the hike down, so it’s very barren, but the views are incredible. We saw a few pikas and marmots along the way, so we intentionally kept a slow pace to just enjoy the experience.

Just before you reach the lake, you enter back into the sub-alpine and continue through the trees. There’s 4 tent sites at Jade Lake and I personally think we ended up with the best site, which overlooks the lake. However, the real star of the show at Jade Lake is the outhouse. The outhouse is elevated and built right on the rock overlooking the mountains. There’s no door, so you can sit on the toilet and enjoy the view to your heart’s content!

But my first order of business was to finally go for a swim! The lake was cold (of course), but it was a lot warmer than I was expecting for an alpine lake. I was able to stay in for a while and really enjoyed a good swim. Brandon did his customary dip and returned to the tent, but since there was no one else around, I did a quick skinny dip before drying off.

https://flic.kr/p/2qozar5

The main lake where the campsite is, is actually called Upper Jade Lake. There’s a lower lake a few hundred metres away, but there’s no trail to access it. You can almost see it from the campsite and we were feeling adventurous, so we decided to go on a little bushwacking adventure. We approached from the north side of the creek running between the two lakes. It’s a little boggy in some areas, but we were able to find our way down relatively easy. It’s a nice view, but we didn’t stay long because it was very buggy and we hadn’t brought the thermacell!

We returned to the upper lake and had our supper along the lake shore (with thermacell this time). It was a really nice evening, but we decided to head to bed early to get a headstart on the return trip. It got pretty cold and dewy overnight and the moon was very bright, so we didn’t see many stars.

We got up around 6am, just as the sun was rising over the mountains, which turned the mountain behind the lake golden. It was really beautiful and we were the only people awake to enjoy it. In fact, when we started hiking just before 8am, we were still the only people up. It is a pretty big climb to the top of the pass, so I’m glad we got up early. The sun was hidden behind a few clouds and it stayed that way the entire time we were climbing, which was awesome. It took us about an hour and the sun finally peaked out just as we reached the top of the pass.

The real benefit of getting up so early though was the wildlife. We saw a few marmots and pikas the previous day, but the area was absolutely crawling with them on our final morning! I guess they get up and enjoy the views early when it’s cool and before the crowds show up. We spent a lot of time watching them around the rocks.

We had the pass entirely to ourselves, as well as the hike back through the alpine to Miller Lake. We didn’t encounter a single person until a few kilometres past the junction to Eva Lake. I wonder if the gate to the parkway opens at a specific time, because as soon as we passed the first group of hikers, it was a steady stream of people the rest of the day. Arguably, it was the nicest day of our trip, so we got to enjoy the nice views along the trail that we’d completely missed on the way in.

It was 10.5km back to the parking lot from Jade Lake and we didn’t take any breaks. We continued at a pretty solid pace because we still had to drive all the way back to Vancouver on the same day. It’s not really ideal, but there was enough time for it. We got back to the car around noon and the parking lot looked very different from when we had started in the pouring rain.

We were a bit too early for the good restaurants in Revelstoke, so we decided to have lunch in Salmon Arm so that we could get bison burgers. They were just okay, but we made a stop to Fruit World in Sicamous along the way (which we discovered on our trip last year). We stocked up on fresh fruits and veggies and enjoyed an ice cream cone. Otherwise, it was a long drive back to Vancouver. But in my opinion, it was worth it and I would totally do the same trip again.

I’m glad we had the ranger cabin at Eva Lake on our rainy day, if I could do the trip again in nice weather, I would probably reverse it and do Eva Lake on the second day so that I could have a shorter distance to hike on the way out. The permits are released really early in the year (March) for the entire season, so you have to be on the ball with bookings if you want to go on a weekend. But if you get the chance, this is a beautiful hike in what is in my opinion, a bit of an under-hyped National Park.

Eva Lake Backpacking Trip

December 11, 2024December 20, 2024 / Maria / 2 Comments

I’ve driven through Mount Revelstoke National Park many times, but I’ve never actually done any of the attractions in the park. It’s a pretty large park, but a lot of the wilderness is inaccessible. I think most visitors drive up the Meadows in the Sky Parkway to the top of the mountain and do some short hikes through the meadows, without exploring deeper into the backcountry.

Eva and Jade Lakes entered my radar over the past few years when I’ve been booking permits in the Rockies, and I impulsively decided to purchase tenting permits for 2 nights in August at the start of the season. You can visit both Eva and Jade Lakes as a day trip, but it’s just over 20km, so it makes for a big day. There were a fair amount of day hikers in the park when the weather was nice, but I think most people either just visit Eva Lake, or only hike as far as the top of the pass on the way to Jade Lake (not wanting to hike up and down the pass to the lake on the same day).

If you have the time, I’d definitely recommend going overnight. There’s only 4 tent pad sites at each lake, so it’s a really special experience when the crowds thin out and you have the National Park mostly to yourself for the evening. My permits were for Eva Lake on a Friday Night and Jade Lake on Saturday Night.

This did make for a very big trip out of Vancouver though. Brandon and I took Friday off and left Vancouver right after work on Thursday. Leaving on Thursday helped a lot with the traffic and it was pretty smooth sailing leaving the city. We stopped once for a pee break and made it to Costco in Kamloops just before closing to fill up the gas tank. It would be nice to book a hotel in Kamloops, but we’ve entered our BC Rec Sites era and decided to hit up one of the many free provincial rec sites instead!

The Harper Lake Rec Site suited our needs best and we drove in a long gravel road in the dark to get to the site. I could imagine that this might be a bit of a party site on the weekends, but it was completely empty on a Thursday night and we quickly set up the tent and went to bed. We were pleasantly surprised with the view in the morning – there’s a gorgeous lake with a little dock – but we didn’t have much time to enjoy it. We took off again early to get to Revelstoke to start our hike.

We stopped in the town of Revelstoke to pick up some sandwiches for lunch, and then drove to the top of Meadows in the Sky Parkway. Another reason I’m glad we started on Friday is that we were easily able to find parking. There’s not very much space in the top parking lot and when we returned to the car on Sunday, there was a steady stream of cars parking along the edge of the road. We arrived around noon and didn’t have any trouble.

But there was another contributing factor to the lack of crowds. As we climbed up the mountain, it slowly started to rain, and by the time we parked the car, it had escalated to a full on torrential downpour. I’ve never been less excited to start a hike. I don’t mind hiking out in the rain, but it’s a real bummer starting a hike in the rain. If we hadn’t driven 6 hours to get there, I may have said, “let’s try again next year”. We reminded ourselves that it was supposed to be much nicer the next two days, and slowly prepared ourselves for the hike.

We ate lunch in the car to postpone the inevitable, and then finally set forth in our full rain gear. My rain gear worked great, as did my boots, but it’s not a particularly enjoyable experience. It’s ~1km uphill from the parking lot to the top of the mountain, where there are a ton of other alpine meadow trails to enjoy (the “Meadows in the Sky” Parkway is very aptly named). The rain did lighten up after a while, but it was still extremely cloudy and we didn’t see any views. This resulted in us making pretty quick time along the 7km trail to Eva Lake and we arrived in the mid afternoon.

I’m so glad I picked Eva Lake for our first night! While we didn’t get to enjoy any of the views from Eva Lake, this campsite does have a small Ranger cabin that is over 100 years old. This was an absolute godsend on a rainy day! We had brought a tarp, but it was so lovely to be able to hang out in the cabin all evening rather than have to tough it out in the cold.

Like I said, there’s only 4 tent sites, and with the rain, the lake was pretty empty. There was one solo female camper from Salmon Arm already there when we arrived, as well as a small family. A group of 3 women showed up later in the evening and we all hung out in the cabin getting to know each other and hoping the rain would let up. We hung everything up to dry, but it was so humid everything remained pretty damp. It never really stopped raining, but it made for a cozy evening and reminded me a lot of the trip Brandon and I made to Lake O’Hara last year, where we spent the better part of the day sheltering in the O’Hara store while it poured and poured.

Fortunately, things improved the following morning. It was still completely clouded in when we woke up, but the rain had finally moved on overnight. We didn’t have too much hiking ahead of us, so we had a lazy start and enjoyed our breakfast by the lake. The clouds were moving around a lot and creating cool shapes. We got a few glimpses of the mountains overshadowing the lake, but never got a view of the mountains looking out from the lake. From other photos, it looks like it’s an amazing view, so something to come back for another time! But we did enjoy the 1km walk that’s available around the edge of the Lake. Check back next week to hear about the second part of our trip to Jade Lake!

Mount Stephen Fossil Site

November 1, 2023July 11, 2024 / Maria / 1 Comment

After a quick trip through Kootenay National Park, our Rocky Mountain road trip continued into Banff and Yoho National Parks. I’ve been to Banff a few times since the pandemic, so Banff was really more of a stopover on the way to Yoho, which was the highlight for the second half of our trip. Unfortunately, there aren’t as many frontcountry camping options in Yoho, and given that it was the long weekend, the only campsite we could get was in Lake Louise.

It was still cool though because the last time I camped in Banff, I stayed at the Tunnel Mountain campground, so at least I got to try something new! Camping in Banff is really unlike anywhere else I’ve ever camped. It’s so incredibly popular, not just in Canada, but all over the world, so it has some really unique campsites. I can’t think of anywhere else except the National Parks in the Rocky Mountains where there are multiple campgrounds boasting hundreds of car-camping sites. So we were able to get a site for 2 nights with minimal advance planning, which was good because even with almost 400 sites in this campground alone, it was sold out by the time the long weekend actually arrived!

The other wild thing about the campground is that it’s surrounded by an electric fence to make it completely bearproof! Even so, they still occasionally wander in, so you still have to be bear safe, but it’s a cool idea. We arrived in the late afternoon and took it easy for a few hours. Our friend, Jason, from the Rockwall Trail had finished his thru hike on his section of the GDT, so he met up with us to celebrate! We opted to check out the Station Restaurant, which is a restaurant that’s been set up in the old school Railway Station. It even has some tables in an old railway car! The food was delicious and we chowed down on our second elk burger of the trip before heading back for an early night.

We had to go to bed early because we had an early rise for our guided hike to Mount Stephen. Since I started dating Seth 12 years ago, I learned that there is an incredibly important fossil site in Yoho National Park called the Burgess Shale. Seth’s been dying to visit it for years, so when we planned a trip to Yoho, I couldn’t help but check out the guided hikes. There was still some availability, so I booked a visit, even though I had a lot of guilt over going without Seth. Bbut it was honestly so much fun, I’d be more than happy to go again with him in the future!

The Burgess Shale is a UNESCO world heritage site that is recognized around the world as one of the most well preserved, and oldest, examples of soft-bodied marine animals, dating back 508 million years to the middle Cambrian era. The entire site is protected, so the only way you can visit it is on a guided hike with either Parks Canada or the Geoscience Foundation. There’s two locations to choose from, either Walcott Quarry or Mount Stephen. Walcott Quarry is 22km round trip, while Mount Stephen is 8km. The catch is that both have over 800m of elevation, which makes Mount Stephen an incredibly steep and taxing hike, with a grade of ~20% for the majority of the hike.

I originally picked Mount Stephen because I thought Walcott Quarry was the more famous of the two sites, so I figured I’d save that one to do with Seth. Now that I have visited, I don’t think one is more famous than the other, but I think I made the right choice because I went with two other hikers, so we enjoyed the challenge of Mount Stephen.

Our tour was with Parks Canada. There was 10 people on the tour and we left from the visitor center in Field at 7am (hence the early wake-up call). Our guide seemed delighted with our group because everyone was pretty fit, so we made a really good pace on the hike. It’s honestly a top-notch tour and we learned so much historical and scientific information on the tour. The Mount Stephen site was discovered first and is credited to Charles Walcott in the early 1900’s, but we learned that Walcott is really the one who made the site famous, but didn’t really discover it.

It was likely first discovered by the local first nations groups, and then later by a surveyor for the railroad. It was just Walcott that really understood what he was looking at and drew attention to the site. Walcott collected over 65,000 fossils between the two sites and for many years, anyone could hike up to the site and take a fossil. That’s not the case now. You must be accompanied with a registered guide and if you try to sneak in otherwise, there’s several cameras that text your photo directly to the park warden, who will then come and escort you down with an automatic appearance in court. But with a guide you can enjoy the experience in peace!

It’s definitely a steep hike. It’s a slog the entire way up. You break out of the trees about 75% through the hike and we had a nice break along the ridge before continuing up another steep climb to the quarry. The quarry is a shale rock site literally located right on the side of the mountain. It has incredible views of Field and the surrounding mountains and I would have been willing to do the tour just for the views! But the fossils are really unreal. Like I said, they’re 508 million years old and incredibly well preserved. The most recognizable are the trilobites, but our group was more enamoured by the anomolocaris (replica pictured above on the left).

We had an hour to eat our lunch and freely explore in the quarry. Hundreds of thousands of fossils have been removed from the quarry and yet almost every single rock you look at has at least 1 fossil, if not dozens, on it. You can either walk through the quarry, examining larger fossils as you go, or you can sit down and get close up with all the unique little fossils. Our guide shared magnifying glasses and identification booklets and we all got lost back in time for an hour. Plus enjoy the pica that entertained me during my lunch pictured below!

We were incredibly lucky weather-wise. It was threatening rain on us all morning, which can make the fossils a bit hard to see and make the quarry quite slippery. But the rain held off until we were finally starting to pack up, and then we finished packing up in a hurry to slowly head back down. Apparently we were a bit faster than the average group, so we had a bit longer in the quarry and finished the entire hike in ~7 hours, but usually the guide allots for 8 hours to run the tour. She dropped us back at the visitor centre around 2pm.

We were all in awe the entire time and it was such a fun way to learn about natural history. I still have the guilt from going without Seth, but I can’t wait to return for Walcott Quarry. Unfortunately, it was Carolyn’s last day with us as she had to go back to work. She’d been planning to drive about halfway back to Vancouver, but with our early finish, she ending up powering the entire way back home that night. Me and Brandon enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Truffle Pig in Field instead and then returned to the Lake Louise campground to pack for our next adventure: Lake O’Hara!