Bowron Circuit Kayak Trip: The West Side

July 20, 2025July 31, 2025 / Maria / 1 Comment

If you’re just joining, this is my final post on my experience on the Bowron Circuit in May 2025. Start with Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3, to read about the full trip. This post focuses on the West Circuit if you’re just planning a partial trip.

Leaving Unna Lake definitely felt a little like the beginning of the end of the trip. We still had a decent amount of distance to cover, but the end was in sight. We didn’t regret our decision to wait to do the hike to Cariboo Falls because the water was completely flat in the morning and we had a very leisurely paddle across the lake. It’s a nice trail to the waterfall. It’s not too long and it’s definitely worth it to do the hike, especially in the Spring!

There was A LOT of water cascading over the falls in May. The river had a very high flow and to some degree, most of what we could see of the waterfall was mist! Definitely exercise caution in this area because there are a few footpaths branching off that people have created that are not formal trails. It is possible to hike down towards the river, but we only went part way because the rock was really wet and slippery and a slip on the rocks could easily knock you into the raging river. We took a few photos before returning to our boats. What was particularly surprising was how dry the forest was. There were a lot of dead trees (probably from pine beetles) and they were looking really dry, so I won’t be surprised when this part of the province gets a fire ban.

Leaving Unna Lake, you have to paddle back upstream for a short distance to get to the portage to Babstock Lake. There’s a fancy ranger cabin and a short paddle along Babstock Creek. It seems that you used to be allowed to line your boat in the creek all the way to the lake, but this is no longer allowed in order to protect the environment, so you have to portage. We had 3 portages ahead of us, but fortunately, they were all pretty short.

The first portage is the longest one of the day to connect to Babstock Lake. It’s 1.3km long, but it’s along fairly flat terrain. It’s just annoying to have to unpack and repack the kayaks multiple times in a day. Fortunately, we had a really exciting encounter at the end of the portage. We finally saw our first moose! Growing up in Newfoundland, we’re definitely not strangers to moose, but it is still fun to see them, especially in wilderness settings (half the moose I’ve seen back home have just accidentally wandered into the city). It was a female moose and she was having a nice snack along the edge of the lake, so we were able to watch her while packing our kayaks and once launching into the lake.

We got some photos, but tried to keep our distance so as not to bother her. Sadly, the wind came up shortly after launching, but it was a nice tailwind, so we had an extra push to help us across the lake! It was only a 3km paddle and then we were back to another portage. This portage was much shorter, measuring only 300m. I was tempted to pull the kayak heavy loaded, but Seth convinced me to unload it to protect my boat from unnecessary flex… I’m not sure it was worth it.

Unloading the boats took much longer than the actual portage and in no time we had arrived at the inflow for the next lake, Skoi Lake. Skoi is by far the smallest lake on the circuit. You have to launch into the creek, which is pretty narrow, in some parts I could barely paddle because flow between the reeds was actually narrower than the length of my paddle! It’s 800m across the lake and then you arrive at your final portage. We were greeted by a family out for a day trip as we packed up our boats to do the final 200m portage.

The portage ends at the south end of Spectacle Lakes. There’s a campsite there (Camp #44), which is actually quite nice. The family took off to return to their campsite and we decided to hang around, eat lunch, and go for another swim. The water felt a little colder, but the weather was properly warming up over the last 2-3 days, so it was still enjoyable. I will admit to putting this swimsuit on just for the photo 😉

On a map, Spectacle Lakes looks like one big lake, but I can understand why it’s called Spectacle Lakes. There are several sand bars at the narrower parts of the channel and at least twice I had to get out of my boat and pull it over the sandbar in order to keep paddling. So I’m assuming it gets shallower in the middle of summer. The sandbars do help in keeping the wind down though. It picked up once we got about a quarter of the way up the lake, but again, we had a tailwind, so we sailed up to the campsite at the end of the lake quite quickly.

This is another large campsite called Pat Point (Camp #48). Our plan had been to spend the night at Pat Point and paddle the remaining 19km in the morning. The only people camping at Pat Point were the family and it was a really nice campsite with another big shelter and sandy beaches. It looks down Spectacle Lakes on the south side and up Swan Lake on the north side. We stopped for a snack break while debating our options.

The wind was definitely picking up, but it wasn’t unmanageable. We had already paddled quite a distance, but there was a fair amount of time left in the day. Part of me wanted to stay and enjoy the beautiful campsite, but another part of me wanted to shorten the journey the following day so that we could get a solid start on the drive home. We were booked into the frontcountry campsite the following night, but that meant having to do the entire 10-hour drive on Sunday, and I really wanted to get home a bit earlier.

So we decided to keep going and get closer to the end of the circuit. Swan Lake is 8km long, then there’s 4km on the Bowron River and 7km on Bowron Lake. The final campsite is at the end of Swan Lake, so I figured it was worth reducing our distance for the following day. I’m still not sure if we made the right decision or not. In some ways, it felt like the wrong decision because the campsites at the end of Swan Lake were extremely crowded. But it also felt like the right decision because it was so windy the following day that I was glad to have saved the time! But I’m getting ahead of myself.

We opted to keep paddling, racking up a total of 26km for the day! We had a substantial tailwind, so we made good time coming down the lake. It was also really nice because we saw a lot of wildlife! All birds, but with Seth being an ornithologist, we get pretty excited about birds. There’s lots of marshland around the west edge of the lake, which is great habitat for them.

There are 4 campsites at the end of the lake. We knew the Canoe Bros would be at one, but we thought they were the only ones. We did not take into account how busy the west side of the circuit could get on a Friday night. We wanted to stay at campsite #51, but when we arrived, it was full with a group of paddlers who had started a day ahead of us. Then we continued on to campsite #52 and that looked full too. We probably should have checked, but we’d been warned by the paddlers at Camp #51 that the people at #52 were not friendly and did not want to share, so we decided to continue on.

Campsite #53 and #54 are right at the end of the lake, before you start paddling the Bowron River. The Canoe Bros were at Camp #53, so that site was also full. It is connected to Camp #54, which fortunately had 1 tent pad left! Unfortunately, the people at Camp #54 weren’t very friendly either. They had taken over the shared shelter and left it a total mess, so we opted to eat our dinner on the other side of the campsite.

I can’t complain about it too much though because it was a really beautiful site. It looks over the Bowron River, which is supposed to be the best place for wildlife on the entire circuit, so we were able to do some spotting while we ate. There’s also this heritage cabin there. It’s 100 years old, so you’re not allowed to go inside, but it’s still a very cool relic of the park. It was constructed the same year that the park was established, so it felt special to get to paddle the circuit on its 100th birthday.

The campsites all have only 1 shared campfire, so we opted to join the Canoe Bros at their campfire in the evening. I felt that we got a really good mix throughout the circuit of what the Bowron Circuit is meant to be. It’s a very remote and wild location, so it was nice to have so much time to ourselves to enjoy that. But it’s also very much a social activity. It’s fun to get to know the other paddlers on the circuit and I did enjoy the nights that we got to hang out with 5 Guys and the Canoe Bros. They definitely had some characters in their groups, but everyone really loved being out on the water and in the wilderness. I’m glad I got to experience a little bit of both. Although preferably with more women next time!

Our last day on the circuit did not disappoint. Our timing wasn’t that great because the weather improved a lot at the end of the trip and it was looking really nice for the next group of paddlers. But you win some, you lose some! We got up early in hopes of seeing some interesting wildlife along the river. At breakfast, we could see some kind of large animal along the shoreline that we thought might be a deer, but closer inspection with Seth’s binoculars revealed that it was actually a sandhill crane! They are really huge birds, so that was an exciting discovery.

The crane had moved on once we started paddling the river, but we did catch up with it later on the circuit. We saw lots of birds along the route and were excited to see a beaver swimming in the river as well. The river is really meandering. It’s not fast moving, but it could be easy to get lost among the channels. We did go down a few branches just for fun to see what we could find. What we really wanted to see was another moose and we were rewarded right at the end of the river! It was another female and she was also having a snack along the edge of the river.

Considering it was only 9am when we exited the river, it was already pretty windy on Bowron Lake. Seth and I got along really well all week, but had a bit of a breakdown in communication at the edge of the lake. The way the wind was blowing, it would be a tailwind for the first half of the paddle, but then there’s a turn in the lake, and after that we would be getting hit broadside. I wanted to paddle down the east side of the lake so that the headland would protect us from some of the wind when we turned the corner. Seth didn’t look at the map and made his decision based on vibes, so he thought it would be better to go down the west side of the lake.

Ladies, you know when you take on the emotional labour of trip planning and decision making, sometimes you get decision fatigue and you want someone, anyone, to take on a little bit of that? I think that’s what I was feeling when I agreed to paddle down the west side of the lake, even though my gut was screaming at me to go down the east side. It’s a bit more of a paddle to get to the east side, which is why I think I gave in, but it was a mistake.

It was fairly windy paddling down the first half, but manageable with the wind coming from behind us. Before the lake turned we did pull into the side of the lake to take a little break, which was definitely a good idea because we got fully assaulted by the wind after that. As we started to make the turn, we still had a tailwind, but it coming at us from a side angle that made the waves a bit scary. As we started getting hit broadside, I’m pretty sure I had a rage blackout and some inner monster took over my body and just brute-force paddled its way down the rest of the lake. I was super mad, but it was the kind of stew-in-it anger and we just paddled against the crashing waves in silence.

Honestly, the right thing to do would probably have been to pull over to the lakeshore and wait it out like we had done on Isaac Lake, but we were so close to the end and I was so cranky, I didn’t want to stop paddling. So I kept rage paddling with Seth hot on my tail. The anger took me almost to the end of the lake, then I got a little bit pummeled by waves and there was a moment of real fear that this might be the time I capsize. I think that’s when the rage finally left my body and I pushed through the last section of lake, taking the first opportunity to exit the water, which is the public boat launch. We pulled the boats up on the shore and jumped out of the kayaks for a big hug while both crying “I’m sorry!!”. And that was how our epic 7 day trip ended.

Technically, we weren’t at the end yet. The public boat launch is 2kms from the park centre, but neither of us had the desire to brave the waves for another 2km. We were just relieved to be back on shore. Instead, Seth unpacked the kayaks and I walked the last bit of the circuit along the road to sign out at the park centre and pick up the car. In total, we tracked 14km for the day, finishing before noon. Intuitively, I know we should have waited out the wind, but it was still racing up the lake when I returned with the car, so it was hard to regret the decision to keep going. There were a few paddlers trying to launch their canoes to start their paddle on the West Circuit, so I mostly felt relief to be done.

It felt like an anti-climactic end to the trip, but it was a really incredible experience. I feel like we went up against a lot of challenges due to the time of year that we paddled, but I also felt like we gained a lot. The reason I keep going on long multi-day backpacking trips is because I love the feeling of accomplishment – of really challenging myself – and the Bowron Circuit definitely delivered on that feeling. It was also really special because I did it with Seth. He doesn’t like backpacking that much, so a lot of my backpacking trips are with friends, which is also nice, but it’s special to have that kind of experience with my husband too. Within hours I’d already forgotten about all the challenges of the trip and would 100% do this circuit again in the future.

Bowron Circuit Kayak Trip: The Chute

July 13, 2025July 31, 2025 / Maria / 2 Comments

If you’ve been following along, this is Part 3 of my Bowron Circuit series. Check out Part 1 and Part 2.

We left off at the end of Day 3, camping at Camp #28 next to the most notorious feature on the Bowron Lake Circuit: The Chute. The Chute is a section of standing waves where the end of Isaac Lake meets the mouth of the Isaac River. The main characteristics of the Chute is that there is a circular eddy on either side of the chute and a sharp right bend in the river at the end of it. If I’m being honest, it’s not that challenging, the trick is not to exit the chute too early. You want to get as close to the end of the waves as possible because if you turn too early, you can get sucked into the eddy, which will turn your boat sideways and then the waves will quickly flip you over.

I’m not sure how the water level contributes to the difficulty of the Chute. It was still Spring when we visited the park, so the water level was really high. One of the kayakers shared that he had done the Chute in the middle of summer when the water level was a lot lower. I imagine the waves are probably more pronounced in the Spring, but in the Summer, you have to worry about not hitting rocks, so it might actually be easier with the high flow.

The biggest challenge we had was that it was very cold. We were lucky to wake up and find the sun shining, which definitely helped, but the temperature hovered pretty close to zero degrees most mornings (one morning we woke up with frost on the boats). The risk of a capsize was a lot scarier at this time of year because of the cold water and air temperatures. In the middle of summer, you’d generally only be worried about losing your gear to the river rather than being concerned about hypothermia from getting dunked in it.

For this reason, more than half of the 5 Guys decided not to run the Chute. Three of them portaged around it, but two decided to paddle it, so Seth and I got to watch them before attempting it ourselves. They navigated the water without any issue, so we decided to follow close behind. I definitely think you have a bit of an advantage doing the Chute in a kayak because you’re not really worried about losing gear. Everything is enclosed in our hatches, so we only had to deal with the cold. The Canoe Bros also ran the Chute, but they spent more time to bungee all their gear to the canoe, so they went after us.

The other advantage me and Seth had is that we were wearing wetsuits. Generally, a dry suit is much better, but they’re also very expensive, so we’ve managed just fine with our wetsuits for years. I still didn’t want to get dunked, but at least I had 3mm of neoprene between me and the cold water. We decided that I would paddle the Chute first so that Seth could assist me if I capsized. Fortunately, we both made it through the Chute without incident! And you know what, it was so much fun! We’re not experienced paddlers by a long shot, but I definitely think that if you can handle paddling 116km of wilderness, you can handle the Chute and I’d encourage people to give it a try. Take the time to plot out your route first and discuss risk management and what you will do if you capsize. Secure your gear if possible to minimize the impacts of capsize, but overall, I think the Chute is a pretty manageable objective and I was so glad that we took it on.

Although, the Chute is only the start of the adventure! Once you run the Chute, you are committed to another 1km of paddling along the fast moving river. The next section of rapids are called the rollercoaster, but they’re mostly just sections of standing waves. It’s not a big deal to go through them, you want to make sure you avoid any rocks in the river, so it’s mostly an exercise in looking for hazards. I suspect this part of the river is a bit easier in the Spring when water levels are high because there are less obstacles.

The river paddle goes by very quickly and then there’s a mandatory portage around a section of the river known as the Cascades. The portage is only 800m and it is all downhill, but the trail is in rough shape and there were a lot of tree roots and rocks that we had to go around. Then there’s another short section of paddling in the river (~600m). At this time of year, the river is moving really fast and there are some more sections of standing waves, so I found it fun to paddle.

However, you have to be careful not to miss the sign for the last portage, because if you go too far downstream, the next water feature is Isaac Falls! The signage is pretty obvious and we pulled our boats ashore for another 500m portage. Once you finish that portage, the bulk of the portaging for the circuit is done. You launch back into the river, but are quickly pushed out into McLeary Lake.

McLeary Lake is one of the smaller lakes on the circuit, but it is really beautiful. There’s only one campsite on it and I don’t think it’s super popular because most people stay overnight at the top of the Chute, but I think this one would be really nice if you wanted to do the Chute later in the day. McLeary Lake felt like one of the most remote lakes to me. I think it’s because it’s shallow and it felt more like a river delta. It’s a quick paddle across the lake, which connects the Isaac River to the Cariboo River, so we pulled our boats up on the sandy shore for a break before taking on the Cariboo. It really felt like we were in the middle of nowhere and I could envision seeing a moose or a caribou at any moment.

We still had to navigate the Cariboo River, which is probably the second most challenging part of the circuit, after the Chute. You can’t portage around the river, so what makes it tricky is that it’s 6km long and there are lots of hazards lurking along the shore or just under the surface. You need to be careful to watch for deadhead (debris under/in the water) and sweepers (debris across the river) that could knock you from your boat. I’m not sure what the current is like in the summer, but in the spring, there was a lot of water and it was moving very fast. I felt that capsizing in the Cariboo River would be more dangerous than the Chute because the current moves so fast, it’s really important not to get separated from your boat.

Fortunately, everything went smoothly for us and it was probably one of the most fun and beautiful sections of the entire circuit. Combined with running the Chute, Day 4 was easily our favourite day of the trip. Because the current was moving so fast, we barely had to paddle at all and we were surrounded by the most scenic and remote mountain landscapes. My jaw was on the floor of the boat the entire time! I think we had less hazards to worry about with the water being so high, but there was one large tree submerged below the surface in one section that played with my imagination because it would be quite easy to capsize if you got too close or didn’t see it.

We had planned for a shorter day because I was worried about the Chute and the Cariboo River, but because those sections of the river are fast moving, this actually would be a good day to knock out some serious mileage if you were behind schedule. 5 Guys and the Canoe Bros were all aiming to make it to Unna Lake, which was a lofty 35km of paddling. Our goal was Turner Creek (Campsite #34), which was only 15km, and we decided to check it out before choosing if we wanted to paddle further.

We ended up paddling all the way to Turner Creek for a late lunch before stopping. Once you exit the Cariboo River, you’re at the bottom of the circuit, starting with Lanezi Lake. I’d heard the south end of the circuit was particularly stunning and I didn’t want to rush through it. The wind picked up pretty much right away when we got to Lanezi Lake, so it was a bit of a work-out to get to Turner Creek, which is a few kilometres up the lake. We ended up arriving shortly after 1pm. It felt a bit early to stop, but it got a bit stormy when we landed on the beach and started to rain, so we quickly ran up the camp to the shelter.

The shelters early on the circuit are more like little ranger cabins. They’re not very big and seem to be historic to the park. On the second half of the circuit, the shelters are modern construction and clearly designed to accommodate more people. The shelter at Turner Creek was the same as at the Chute, but this one had windows, which is much more practical if you want to use the woodstove. As soon as we got to the shelter and saw the views from the campsite, it was a very easy decision to stay and have a lazy afternoon. We watched as 5 Guys and the Canoe Bros all paddled past us on their way to Unna Lake.

Turner Creek is a large site and I think it’s pretty popular in the summer, so it’s hard to believe we had it all to ourselves! We picked a campsite with a gorgeous view of the lake, with the fire pit right on the edge of the site overlooking the view. Seth got a fire going in the woodstove and we unloaded the boats and changed into dry clothes. The rain was short lived and after a few hours of wind and waves, the sun came out in the late afternoon and the water got really calm. I mostly just read and soaked in the sun for a few hours, which was much needed! Seth opted to go for a quick swim, but I was still too chilled for the water, so I just enjoyed the view.

At this point of the trip, we hadn’t seen a lot of the other paddlers who started with us. There was a group of New Brunswickers who paddled faster than the rest of us and we didn’t see them after the second day. But there was also a solo kayaker who was doing the circuit with a 10 foot sit-upon kayak. We talked to him briefly on day 1 (he shared that his kayak felt very “tippy”) and then we hadn’t seen him since. I have mixed feelings about the appropriateness of this kind of kayak. Really, they are not appropriate. 10 feet is very short for this kind of trip and sit-upons lack the stability of an ocean kayak. I can’t imagine it felt very comfortable in the challenging conditions of Isaac Lake. But on Day 4, the solo kayaker eventually caught up with us and he did end up finishing the circuit, so I guess I don’t have any right to judge him. I would not recommend it, but I guess it can be done. He pulled into another site for the night, so we still didn’t get to talk to him.

We spent the rest of the evening eating and enjoying the view. I made supper and Sseth got a campfire going looking out over the lake. The weather really cleared up and we didn’t get any more rain that day. Instead we just enjoyed the solitude of the site before eventually going to bed for the night. This was the only night on circuit that I was a bit cold overnight. We packed really warm sleeping equipment, but the next morning when we woke up there was frost on the kayaks, so it obviously got pretty cold overnight!

On Day 5, we finally got a morning where the lake was dead flat in the morning and we were super excited to launch the kayaks! The sun was still hanging around and we had a really enjoyable paddle along the edge of Lanezi Lake. The mountains on the south side of Lanezi are super picturesque. There’s a few small campsites along the edge of the lake and as we were approaching one for a snack break, Seth spotted a marmot along the lakeshore! It didn’t seem like marmot habitat, but I guess this guy found a good place to make his home between some loose rocks.

The weather was very temperamental, but not necessarily in a bad way. We could see the storms moving around throughout the day. You’d look one direction and it would be rainy and dark, and then you look the other direction and it’s blue sky and clouds. We weren’t immune from the rain, but the wind stayed low all day, so it didn’t bother us. We had another snack break at the end of Lanezi Lake, at Camp #37, which is a really beautiful site.

From there, you briefly return to the Cariboo River to paddle into Sandy Lake. The river is really wide in this section and it’s not fast flowing. Sandy Lake is small compared to some of the other lakes and we did get a spot of bad weather as we were paddling into it. But there are some really nice campsites! As the name suggests, there are sandy beaches along Sandy Lake and the campsites are very large, with lots of room for tents to spread out. We took a break for lunch just as the wind was coming up, but fortunately it was short lived and seemed to calm down again after we re-launched.

The last section we had to paddle for the day was to re-join the Cariboo River until we reached Unna Lake. Unna Lake is probably the most well known site on the circuit, so it has a lot of campsites and is very popular as a place to stay. To get there, we had to paddle 21km in total, which was pretty achievable 5 days into the trip and considering we had decent paddling conditions.

We weren’t sure what to expect from the Cariboo River in this section. We thought it might be fast moving like the section from the previous day, but it was more like a lazy river. We had to work a little bit more with the paddling, but we saw lots of birds along the way, especially kingfishers, which are my favourite bird!

Unna Lake is actually located off the circuit, so in order to get there, you have to paddle past the next portage to Babstock Lake, until you get to a little entrance off the river to the lake. The lake is pretty sheltered and I think it’s popular because it’s usually quite calm. There’s a huge beach with lots of campsites at Unna Lake, and if you paddle further into the lake, there’s a second lake called Rum Lake, which is where the group campsite is. The other attraction on the far end of Unna Lake is the trail to Cariboo Falls. There’s no hiking in the park except for this trail. It’s a 1km trail that hikes further along the river to the thundering Cariboo Falls.

We could see the Canoe Bros across the lake heading out towards the trail, but the campsite was empty so we assumed they were on the way out. Again, we had a very large and popular campsite all to ourselves, which felt a bit surreal! We picked a nice spot to set up and then the sun came out and I finally felt like I might be warm enough to go for a swim. There was no one around, so the only real option for swimming was skinny dipping. I can tell you, we never miss an opportunity for skinny dipping and given the low crowds on the trail, neither of us used our swimsuits on the trip 😉

I finally went for a swim and because Unna Lake is so shallow, it was surprisingly warm. It felt nice to wash my body, although we had been doing heated cloth baths throughout the week and those are pretty nice too! We figured there was no rush to hike to Cariboo Falls and decided to just relax along the beachfront instead. Unna Lake is very sandy, so I can understand why it’s so popular in the summer. That said, if you can’t make it all the way to Unna or it doesn’t work with your itinerary, I honestly think Sandy Lake is just as nice, and probably gets less people.

Later in the afternoon we got a little bit of entertainment. Once you hit Unna Lake, you’re on what is considered the West Circuit. If you don’t have enough time for the entire Circuit, you can plan a shorter itinerary on the West Circuit, which involves starting your paddle across Bowron Lake in the opposite direction. You’re permitted to paddle as far as Unna Lake, after which you have to turn around and paddle back to Bowron (because of the currents on the Cariboo River). So generally, the circuit did feel a little bit busier after Unna Lake and it was harder to guess how many people might be interested in the same campsite.

As we were relaxing, a very large school group with about a dozen canoes entered the lake. They were all on the west circuit and staying at the group campsite on Rum Lake for the evening. It was at this point, when we saw the Canoe Bros starting the paddle back, that we realized they had actually been camping at Rum Lake overnight and had been planning to stay a second night. They had to pack up all their gear to vacate the group site and then they opted to paddle on to Babstock Lake instead. So we still ended up being the only people at the Unna Lake campsite for the evening.

We planned to eat supper and then go to the Cariboo Falls trail in the evening, but around 6pm it got super windy! Unna Lake was the only campsite we ended up staying at that didn’t have a shelter, so I made a nice little tarp shelter with our paddles and the wind really put it to the test. It’s only a 10 minute paddle across the lake, but we decided to wait until morning with the wind being so high. We had planned to have a campfire, but I ended up getting chilled by the wind and decided to have a lazy night in the tent instead. I did a bit of reading and went to bed super early, but the exhaustion really catches up with you on these types of trips and I think it was much needed. Check back next week for Part 4!

Bowron Circuit Kayak Trip: Isaac Lake

June 29, 2025September 3, 2025 / Maria / 3 Comments

My last blog post covered the basics of the Bowron Lake Circuit and a re-cap of our first day on the circuit. After a warm and cozy night on Indianpoint Lake, we were up early to continue our adventure to Isaac Lake. We packed up the boats and were on the water by 8am. Sadly, we only had a short 1km paddle to the end of Indianpoint Lake, followed by yet another portage. Fortunately, the portages keep getting shorter. This one was only 1.5km, and it would be our last portage for 2 days.

I’m really glad we opted to stay at Campsite #8 on Day 1 rather than pushing to Isaac Lake. I was exhausted after our second portage on Day 1, but I felt a lot more rested on Day 2. The portage was a bit annoying in that it had a lot of potholes and Seth’s kayak took a sideways tumble early in the portage. But overall, it was pretty flat and it felt like the easiest of the 3 portages to me.

I should note that Seth and I did not purchase or rent an expedition cart for this trip. We already owned small carts that we use to get our kayak from the car to the launch, and we opted to just use those. They have plastic wheels and are lower to the ground then the expedition carts, but honestly, they worked great! Everyone else was using expedition carts, which are a little higher, and everyone complained about them being really tippy. At first, I babied my cart, but by the end of the trip, I was just hauling it over every bump, root, and rock. It held up for the entire trip with no issue and very limited tipping. We did bring a spare wheel with us in case we blew out a tire (since they’re plastic), but we didn’t end up needing it.

Eventually we arrived at Isaac Lake, the biggest lake on the circuit. I think it’s time to share a map of the circuit to give you an idea of the unique topography of this area. The circuit is very rectangular, with Isaac Lake having a notable corner in it. The west arm is ~7km long, while the main arm is ~31km long. We paddled Isaac Lake for 2 full days and it is definitely one of the more memorable lakes (both good and bad).

The water was really calm when we arrived and we could see a lot of the other groups still packing up along the shore from Campsites #11 and #12. I always live in fear of the afternoon headwind (which seems to be a thing everywhere we paddle), so our goal was to have early mornings and do as much paddling as possible before lunch. Since the water was so calm, we ended up paddling the entire 7km of the west arm in one go, over about an hour and a half. Overall, we paddled pretty fast on this trip, usually averaging around 4km an hour.

I should also mention that there are two kinds of campsites on the circuit: individual sites and group sites. If you have more than 7 people in your party, you have to make a group reservation. The benefit of the group reservation is that you have guaranteed campsites. Only 1 group leaves per day and only that group can stay at the group campsites. The downside is that you have to follow a fixed itinerary (I think it’s 8 days). There was no group on the circuit when we did it, so we were able to use group sites if desired. We made a stop at the group campsite (#14) at the end of the arm for a snack, and then continued our paddle down the main arm.

Isaac Lake is quite beautiful. It’s so long that you cannot see the entirety of the lake at any point and it is completely surrounded by mountains. The mountains were a bit coy when we paddled the lake because of the weather. It didn’t rain very much on Day 2, but it was overcast and the clouds hid a lot of the mountains. It did start to get a bit windy as we paddled down the main arm, so we stopped at Campsite #18 for lunch.

Campsite #18 is another campsite with a shelter. The wind really picked up while we were having lunch, so we strongly debated just having a short day and spending the night to take advantage of the shelter. But I knew there was another shelter 8km away at Campsite #20, so I was really on the fence. Our goal was to get to the end of Isaac Lake by the end of Day 3, and that would be a lot easier from Campsite #20. But the wind seemed to drop down after a while and we decided to make a go for it. We did have to fight with a headwind for a few kilometres, but the wind dropped off entirely before we got to Campsite #20 and it was almost flat water when we arrived. Thanks to the extra distance, it was one of our bigger days on the circuit and we travelled a total of 23km.

We had to name the other groups we were sharing the circuit with to differentiate them from one another. There was a group of 5 kayakers that we creatively named 5 Guys (but apt because they were young burgers-and-beer kind of guys), and they were already settled in when we arrived at the campsite. They were very friendly and there was one tent pad left, so we took it and got to know their group a bit better around the campfire. We didn’t get any more rain for the rest of the night, so we ended up not needing the shelter. 5 Guys had a pretty raging campfire, so that kept us warm for the evening, and we had a good laugh as they regaled us with stories of accidentally capsizing in Kibbee Lake, 20 minutes into their trip!

On Day 3, we really got a bit of everything. We were up early and on the water by 8am again. When we paddle at home, the ocean is usually dead calm at 8am, and will often stay that way until at least 11am. I was surprised by some of the conditions on the Bowron circuit. I wouldn’t say it was windy in the mornings, but it was rarely flat water, even at 6am. The wind was never concerning in the mornings, but always a bit more breezy than I was anticipating.

We got in a few hours of easy paddling along the shoreline, but we had 21.5km to go to get to the end of Isaac Lake. Isaac Lake has a lot of little headlands along it, where the mountain meets the water and creates a small point. Around 11am, it started getting really windy. Usually it’s windier when you go around a headland, but once you make it to the other side, the wind dies down because you’re somewhat protected by the next headland. At 11am, we went around one headland where it felt like we were getting completely assaulted by the full strength of the wind across the lake. We could see really far down the lake and it felt like the wind was tunneling the whole way up it to hit us broadside. The way the wind was blowing, there was no shelter from the next headland and we had a very slow paddle through some nasty waves.

Eventually we reached the next headland and got a small break directly behind it. We were afraid to go around because we knew we’d be getting hit directly again on the other side, so we decided to wait it out for a little while. Like I said, the weather was all over the place on this trip and it was fairly normal for the rain and wind to storm up and down the lake, so conditions changed quickly and frequently. We figured if we waited even for 15 minutes, the wind could change, so we pulled our boats onto the very limited amount of available shoreline and settled in to wait.

Unfortunately, the wind only seemed to get worse and we could see whitecaps forming in the lake. After about a half hour, 5 Guys caught up with us and also opted to pull into the lakeside to wait. Shortly after they arrived, me and Seth decided to make an attempt at the headland, but the second we became exposed, we were getting hit by whitecaps, so we quickly did a 180 and returned to shelter. We ate our lunch while studying the waves for another 45 minutes or so. Eventually it looked like the wind was coming down a little bit, and we decided to go for it as a group. It was still pretty nasty, but definitely better than our first attempt and this time we made it through to the next section.

I think we were probably just at the windiest part of the lake and it did seem like the only way out was through. Once we made it through the next section, the wind definitely died down a lot and we all felt comfortable to keep going. Me and Seth took a short break at a real campsite, but then the rain showed up and we decided it was more comfortable to weather the rain in the boats.

One upside of the rain is that it does generally calm the wind and it can sometimes be windier on sunny days. The wind continued dropping and by the time we paddled through the rain, we seemed to have passed through one storm into another. The wind actually switched direction and we ended up getting a nice little tailwind for the rest of the day. The group of canoers that we nicknamed Canoe Bros, caught up with us later in the day and said that they had experienced the same thing. They described it as two storm fronts and they ended up catching a break for a while when they got caught in the calm between the two, and were able to ride it out for a few hours.

Fortunately that was the end of our wind woes for the day. 5 Guys branched off to do some fishing and Seth and I enjoyed the gentle tailwind propelling us the rest of the way to the campsite. Our goal for the day was Campsite #28, which is the last campsite on Isaac Lake. It’s a large site and I think it’s a popular spot for people to stop. It’s combined with a group site, but since there were no groups, we put it to good use between us, 5 Guys, and the Canoe Bros. It has a large shared shelter with a set of picnic tables and a woodstove, although the woodstove isn’t super useful because it’s an open-air shelter.

But the weather really cleared up in the afternoon and we actually got a couple of hours of sun! So we all lay out on the banks of the lake to soak in as much warmth as possible. The reason this site is so popular though, is because of it’s proximity to the most notorious water feature on the circuit, the Chute. It’s an optional paddling feature for those brave enough to try it, so people like to stop at the campsite for the night to assess the objective and hope to see someone else attempt it first!

It’s basically a line of standing waves, with an eddy on either side. What makes it tricky is that there’s a sharp turn at the end of the chute and if you exit to early, you can get caught in the eddy and then the waves will hit you broadside and quickly capsize your boat. No one attempted the chute in the evening, but we all spent hours discussing and sizing it up. Trying to figure out who was going to run it and whether we could wait around long enough to watch them attempt it first!

Seth was all for running the chute (mostly because he didn’t want to portage any extra distance). We assumed 5 Guys would all be down for the challenge, but they were having serious doubts after their capsize in Kibbee Lake. We caught an absolutely gorgeous sunset over the lake while debating it and Seth and I decided that since we had wetsuits, we would give it a try in the morning, but were really hoping to see someone else attempt it first.

Tune in next week to find out if we were successful in running the notorious Chute!