Rockwall Trail Backpacking Guide

January 17, 2026December 17, 2025 / Maria / Leave a comment

In the spirit of helping more people get hiking on some of western Canada’s most iconic trails, I decided to create a backpacking guide for the Rockwall Trail in Kootenay National Park. I hiked this trail over 3 nights in 2023 and had a fantastic time. I attribute most of the fun to my phenomenal hiking partners, but the beautiful scenery on the trail also made the experience unforgettable. I’ve already published a 2-part trail report, which you can read starting here, as well as a guide to Kootenay National Park. I’ve consolidated all of my Rockwall-specific knowledge here for those planning to hike the trail. Reservations for the 2026 season release at 7am PST on January 26, 2026 (8am MST).

The Trail

The Rockwall Trail is a 54km thru-hike located in Kootenay National Park in BC. You can hike the trail in either direction and there are several exit points that connect to the highway if you want to shorten your hike. The two main trailheads are located off Highway 93 at the Floe Lake and Paint Pots Trailheads. There are 5 campgrounds on the trail, with the most popular campsite at Floe Lake. Most people hike the trail over 3-5 days, depending on fitness level.

At 54km in length, the Rockwall Trail is not the longest trail in the Rockies, but there is a significant amount of elevation gain, so don’t underestimate it. The hike starts in the forest on both ends of the trail, climbing up towards the alpine, which runs between Helmet Falls and Floe Lake with 3 steep passes along the way. While Floe Lake is very popular, the trail takes its namesake from the large rock wall that runs between Helmet Falls and Tumbling Creek, which in my opinion, is the real highlight!

If you don’t like backpacking, you can visit Floe Lake as a day hike, but it is a 22km round trip hike, with 750m of elevation, so it’s a big day. I don’t recommend day hikes from any of the other trail entrances – unless you’re a trail runner – but the alternative trail entrances from Numa Creek and Tumbling Creek Trails offer the opportunity to shorten your backpacking trip.

Time of Year

The best time of year to hike the Rockwall Trail is in the Summer or early Fall. If you go in late-June or early-July, be aware that there may still be snow on some of the trails. If you go later in the summer, it’s more likely that your trip might be impacted by wildfires. While most people prefer to backpack in the summer, late September is also popular due to the colourful larch trees near Floe Lake. However, you should be prepared for snow and cold conditions at this time of year. I hiked the trail at the very end of August and had great conditions.

Getting There

Unfortunately, this park is not accessible by public transit. Similar to other popular Canadian parks, the easiest way to access is by driving. The park is located on Highway 93, which is a 50 minute drive to the Floe Lake Trailhead from either Banff or Radium. The added challenge with the Rockwall Trail is that, because it’s a thru-hike, you will either need 2 cars, 1 at each trailhead, or plan to hitchhike between the two parking lots. I parked a car at each trailhead, which is the easiest option, but hitchhiking is not uncommon along this route and is relatively safe. I recommend making friends along the trail and looking for a ride from another hiker.

There is a large parking lot at the Paint Pots trailhead, but the Floe Lake trailhead is much smaller, so you may have to wait for a parking space to open up. I’ve also heard that break-ins are not uncommon at the Floe Lake trailhead, so make sure not to leave valuables in your vehicle.

Permits

Like most popular hikes in the Rockies, securing your camping permits will likely be the hardest part of your trip. This is a popular trail and it attracts crowds every year. If you’re doing a day hike, you don’t need a permit for the trail, just the National Park Pass (discussed below). But if you want to try and get camping permits, then it’s important to mark your calendar with the permit release date.

The permit release date for 2026 is January 26, 2026 at 7am PST. Permits are $10 per person, per night (plus a booking fee) and they will disappear fast, so you need to be ready to book right when they release. I will try and update the release dates for permits every year, but they are usually announced by Parks Canada in late November or early December for the following year – so keep an eye on their page of release dates in future years. To make your bookings, visit https://reservation.pc.gc.ca/.

Once booking opens, select “backcountry” in the tabs along the top of the booking page, and then select “backcountry zone”. Next, select “Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho Backcountry” as your park and select your start date and access point. There are 3 options for access points along the Rockwall Trail: Floe Lake, Numa Falls, and Paint Pots. Numa Falls is only used if you’re doing a shorter version of the trail. If you want to hike south, select Paint Pots; if you want to hike north, select Floe Lake. If you have trouble getting your preferred itinerary, you can always try reversing direction or using different start dates.

Once you start your search, you will be forced to build your itinerary day by day. At the top of the page, you’ll see a dropdown menu where you can select your campsite and “add to stay”. Instead of building your itinerary this way, you can scroll down to the map and click on the “calendar” tab in the left sidebar to see a list of all available campsites per night. This is an easier way to see what’s available and build your itinerary. If you don’t see what you want, try refreshing or reversing your itinerary by updating your access point. People are constantly adding and changing dates and campsites in a rush to get their preferred itinerary, so the trick is to frequently refresh. Just because you don’t see a site available right away, doesn’t mean it won’t show up later if you keep refreshing.

My recommendation is to take what you can get and make changes later. If Floe Lake is not available, book Numa Creek and move on to the next day before those dates book up too. Once you have secured a booking for each of the dates in your itinerary, go back and look for cancellations. Keep refreshing until you see one, and then make a change to your booking to add it. This does cost more as you have to pay a small change fee, but it offers more flexibility in ensuring you at least get something. I wasn’t able to book Floe Lake when I made my original booking, but I was able to get a cancellation for it afterwards. You can track cancellations on Schnerp, which will notify you when a site opens up.

Here’s a few tips for getting your camping permits:

Get on the booking website 15 minutes early using as many devices as possible (computers, phones, ipads, etc). At release time, everyone on the website is entered into a random generator that assigns you a position in the queue. All of your devices will be assigned a place in line, then proceed to book your permits on whatever device has the shortest queue.
Once you get access, be flexible with both your starting date and itinerary. Use the “calendar” option to see available dates at each campsite. Consider shortening your itinerary by exiting on the Numa Creek or Tumbling Falls Trails.
If you don’t see any availability, keep refreshing for at least 15 minutes. With so many people trying to book campsites, dates are always disappearing and then becoming available again, so if you don’t see anything, keep refreshing.
Be prepared that you might not get what you want. Book alternative sites and sign up for cancellation notifications on Schnerp.

National Park Pass

In addition to backpacking permits, which are specific to your campsite, you must also have a National Park Pass. These are much easier to obtain – there is no booking period and the number of passes are not restricted. The most common option is to purchase the discovery pass, which is available for $150 for a family, or $75 per person. It’s essentially an annual pass that covers everyone in your car. You leave it hanging in the car while you’re on the trail and it acts as a parking pass. If you have two cars, then you would need two passes. Alternatively, you can buy single adult day passes for everyone, which are $11 per person, per day. However, in 2025 and 2026, Canadians can obtain the Canada Strong Pass for free, which includes a free discovery pass and 25% off bookings! You can purchase passes online, in advance, or in person at the Kootenay and Banff park entrances.

Campsites

There are 5 backcountry campsites located along the trail, so there are multiple options for where to stay, which provides some flexibility when planning your itinerary and securing bookings. The campsites are pretty equally spaced along the trail, so it is easy to plan for a more relaxed itinerary, or you can plan your sites further apart if your itinerary is more aggressive. I’ll discuss itineraries below, but here’s an overview of the campsites running from north to south. They all include outhouses and bear lockers, and require valid permits for overnight use.

Helmet-Ochre Junction – This is the most accessible campground on the trail, located 6km from the Paint Pots trailhead. It’s located along the river at a trail junction and has 6 tent sites. It’s a nice enough campground, but it’s often overlooked in favour of the more popular/scenic campsites. If you can’t get permits for Helmet Falls, this is a good alternative. It’s also a great option if you’re starting late in the day and don’t want to hike too far.

Helmet Falls – This is a beautiful campground located at the base of Helmet Falls, which cascades down the valley from Helmet Mountain. There are 18 tent sites and you can enjoy the view from the picnic area at the back of the campground. This is a great option to camp before or after you’ve hiked along the Rockwall.

Tumbling Creek – This campground is located at the bottom of the valley between Rockwall Pass and Tumbling Pass. There’s 18 tent sites and easy access to the river with nice views. This is a great option to camp before or after you’ve hiked along the Rockwall. You can also come direct to the campground along the Tumbling Creek Trail, which starts at the Paint Pots trailhead.

Numa Creek – This is the lowest elevation campground on the trail and is located between Tumbling Pass and Numa Pass. There’s 18 tent sites and easy river access. This is a great place to camp on your way to or from Floe Lake. You can also come direct to the campgound along the Numa Creek Trail, which starts at the Numa Falls trailhead.

Floe Lake – This is the most popular campground on the trail. If you can score a permit for this campground, do not hesitate to book it. The entire trail is very scenic, but Floe Lake is definitely the most scenic campground. It has 18 tent sites and is located 11km from the Floe Lake trailhead.

Itineraries

Planning this trail is pretty straight forward because it is a linear thru-hike. Your main decisions will be what direction to hike and over how many days. Here are a few recommendations based on how many nights you plan to spend on the trail. And here’s a useful trail graphic from Parks Canada, noting the distance between each campsite.

1-Night: Your best option if you only have 1 night is to camp at Floe Lake, hiking in and out from that trailhead. Add on 2km each way to hike up to the top of the nearby pass for a fantastic birds-eye view of Floe Lake. Alternatively, if you really want to see the Rockwall, you could spend 1 night at Helmet Falls and hike out via the Rockwall and Tumbling Creek Trail. You just have to be prepared for a big 20km day on day 2.

2-Night: 2 nights is probably the most awkward itinerary, because you can hike most of the trail, but it’s ambitious to do the whole thing. If you want to do the whole trail, I’d recommend camping at Helmet Falls and Numa Creek, which requires you to hike two 20km days back to back. If you don’t want to do the whole trail, hike north, camping at Floe Lake, followed by Tumbling Creek, and exit on the Tumbling Creek Trail. Or hike south, camping at Helmet Falls, followed by Numa Creek, and exit on the Numa Creek Trail. Hiking north allows you to visit Floe Lake, while hiking south allows you to hike the Rockwall. If you want to hit both, you have to do the whole trail.

3-Night: I did the trail in 3-nights, which I thought was a good length. Plan for your first and third nights at either Floe Lake or Helmet Falls (doesn’t matter which direction you go), and then your second night at either Tumbling Creek or Numa Creek. You will have one long day with this itinerary, but you can plan it around whether you’d like to have extra time at Floe Lake or on the Rockwall. I hiked south and camped at Numa Creek, meaning I had lots of time to relax at Floe Lake on my last night.

4-Night: This is the most relaxed itinerary. Do the trail in either direction and camp at Floe Lake, Numa Creek, Tumbling Creek, and Helmet Falls. You’ll have lots of time to enjoy Floe Lake, the Rockwall, and Helmet Falls.

Guide to Lake O’Hara

December 20, 2025December 17, 2025 / Maria / Leave a comment

Lake O’Hara is one of the most popular lakes in the Canadian Rockies, but it’s one of the hardest lakes to visit (except maybe for Berg Lake). Other popular lakes like Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and Emerald Lake, can all be visited by car, whereas Lake O’Hara is located at the end of an 11km road that is only accessible on foot or by Parks Canada shuttle bus. For that reason, it sees fewer visitors than other lakes in the Rockies, but has one of the most exclusive permitting systems. Whether you want to backpack or day hike at Lake O’Hara, if you want to avoid the 22km round trip journey on the access road, you need to secure a bus pass. If you’re lucky enough to get one, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most incredible views in Yoho and all of the Rockies.

Getting There

Lake O’Hara is located in the heart of Yoho National Park, along Highway 1 (Trans Canada Highway), shortly outside of the small town of Field. It’s easily accessible from both Alberta and BC. It’s located an hour from Banff on the east side and an hour from Golden on the west side. Unfortunately, there isn’t any public transport running to the Lake O’Hara parking lot, so you will need your own vehicle or to connect with other hikers. You can park in the base lot for free, but you cannot drive the access road, you must reserve a spot of the Lake O’Hara shuttle bus.

The Attraction

Why is access to Lake O’Hara so sought after? It’s because of the incredible views once you arrive at the lake and the concentrated access to scenic alpine terrain. 22km is a big hike for most people, but the access road is fairly straight forward and not too challenging. If you just want to see the lake, you could hike in and out on the access road.

However, the reason most people prefer to skip the 22km access hike is to spend more time exploring the alpine. Lake O’Hara is home to the famous alpine circuit, a ~12km loop hike through the alpine that encircles Lake O’Hara. While the alpine circuit can be broken into 3 sections that can be hiked individually, if you’d like to hike the entire circuit, you’ll want to take the shuttle bus in. I hiked the trail and stayed at the campsite for 2 nights in 2023, you can read my full trip report here.

The alpine circuit starts at the base of the lake, hiking straight up to the Wiwaxy Gap and Huber’s Ledges, which will take you to Lake Oesa. From there, you continue on the Yukness Ledges to Opabin Lake and the viewpoint at Opabin Prospect. This is the most popular view in the park, and many visitors will focus on hiking to this viewpoint rather than doing the whole circuit. If you want to finish the circuit, you then continue hiking the All Souls route, which will take you along the edge of Mount Shaffer and back to where you started. Other hiking routes in the park include Lake McArthur, Odaray Grandview, and Linda Lake, though these are not as popular as the sections of the Alpine Circuit.

Other attractions include visiting Le Relais, a small cafe run by Parks Canada, for hot chocolate and carrot cake; visiting the lodge for high tea; or renting a canoe to explore the lake (although this might only be available to those staying at the lodge, I’m not sure).

With so many options for hiking, staying overnight in the park is an attractive option for many visitors. The overnight options include a pricey stay at the O’Hara Lodge, a lottery ticket entry to stay at the ACC’s Elizabeth Parker Hut, or a permit for the backcountry campsite managed by Parks Canada. More on each of these options below.

Time of Year

There are a few options for when to visit Lake O’Hara, but the most popular option is to visit in the summer. The backcountry campground is usually open from late June to late September and it will be sold out for the entire season. July is a great time to visit if you want warm weather and to avoid the wildfire smoke that will inevitably roll in at some point in the summer, but there may still be snow on some of the high routes in July. September is also a popular time to visit because there are many larch trees around the lake that turn bright yellow in the Fall.

Winter is a less popular time to visit as there is no shuttle service in the winter, but it is still possible. You can ski or snowshoe up the access road and the ACC’s Elizabeth Parker Hut is much easier to book in the winter. However, I don’t have experience with the winter route and I believe it does pass through an avalanche run-out zone, so please do independent research if you visit in the winter and ensure that you have the proper avalanche safety training.

Permits

Getting permits is really the crux of this blog post. Without a doubt, scoring a day pass on the shuttle or an overnight camping permit (which includes a bus pass) will be the hardest part of your trip. The day pass secures you a ride up and back on the shuttle bus and allows you a full day of hiking in the park. The day pass is managed using a lottery system, so it’s easy to enter the lottery, but no guarantee that you will be lucky enough to get a pass. The shuttle bus lottery for 2026 will run from March 2 to March 23. There is a $10 non-refundable fee to enter the lottery, plus if you are successful, a $15 fee for the bus.

In contrast, the camping permits are issued all at once for the season. Camping permits for 2026 will be released on January 22 at 7am PST (8am MT). Permits are ~$30 per night and they will disappear fast, so you need to be ready to book right when they release. I will try and update the release dates for permits every year, but they are usually announced by Parks Canada in late November or early December for the following year – so keep an eye on their page of release dates in future years. To make your bookings, visit https://reservation.pc.gc.ca/.

Here’s a few tips for getting your camping permit:

Get on the booking website 15 minutes early using as many devices as possible (computers, phones, ipads, etc). At release time, everyone on the website is entered into a random generator that assigns you a position in the queue. All of your devices will be assigned a place in line, then proceed to book your permits on whatever device has the shortest queue. You may have to wait up to an hour to get in, so try not to be discouraged.
Once you get access, be flexible. Search for your desired dates and then click on the Lake O’Hara backcountry campsite, followed by the “calendar” option on the left sidebar to see all available dates.
If you don’t see any availability, keep refreshing for at least 15 minutes. With so many people trying to book campsites, dates are always disappearing and then becoming available again, so if you don’t see anything, keep refreshing.
If you’re trying to get multiple dates, it can be hard to get two consecutive nights on the same booking. If both nights aren’t available at once, book one night first, and then try and get the second night after. You will have to pay the reservation fee twice, but it will increase your odds of getting a booking (or at least securing one night). Just make sure to call Parks Canada later and get them to combine your permits (because they both include in a bus pass and if you don’t show up for the bus on the second day, they will give your camping permit away for the second night).
Be prepared that you might not get anything. The first year I tried for permits, I wasn’t successful. The second year, I managed to get two separate 1 night bookings that I combined. If you don’t get anything, sign up for cancellation notifications on Schnerp.
Parks Canada will give away “no shows” on the day of the reservations. So you can try to get a permit by showing up at the parking lot. But be advised that a lot of people do this, so no guarantees. You can also hike up and try and grab a spare seat on the bus on the way down, but again, there is usually a long line of people trying to do this.

If you would like to try for alternative overnight options, the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) also runs a lottery for their Elizabeth Parker Hut. This lottery is available for entry between December 15, 2025 and January 30, 2026, and there is a $16 fee to enter. You can also book into the swanky Lake O’Hara lodge, but be prepared to book early and pay ~$1000 per night.

National Park Pass

In addition to backpacking permits, which are specific to your campsite, you must also have a National Park Pass. These are much easier to obtain – there is no booking period and the number of passes are not restricted. The most common option is to purchase the discovery pass, which is available for $150 for a family, or $75 per person. It’s essentially an annual pass that covers everyone in your car. You leave it hanging in the car while you’re on the trail and it acts as a parking pass. Alternatively, you can buy single adult day passes for everyone, which are $11 per person, per day. However, in 2025 and 2026, Canadians can obtain the Canada Strong Pass for free, which includes a free discovery pass and 25% off bookings! You can purchase passes online, in advance, or in person at the Banff park entrance.

Overnight Options

As discussed in the permit section, there are 3 options for accommodation:

Lake O’Hara Campground (Parks Canada) – This is a backcountry campground with 30 tent pads. There is a cooking shelter, picnic tables, potable water, bear lockers, bag storage, and a communal firepit with wood provided (when there is no fire ban). You must have a permit to stay here and check-in with the park rangers both when you board the bus and at the campsite. You must cook in the communal cooking area. Book on January 22, 2026 at 7am PST at https://reservation.pc.gc.ca/

Elizabeth Parker Hut (ACC) – This is a backcountry hut that sleeps 24 people and has a water source nearby. You must have a permit to stay here and can enter the lottery for $16 between December 15, 2025 and January 30, 2025 at https://alpineclubofcanada.ca/hut/elizabeth-parker-hut/. You can obtain a bus pass through the ACC if you are successful in the lottery.

Lake O’Hara Lodge (private) – This is a fully catered hotel experience, including a private bus up to the lodge, hotel style accommodations, and prepared meals. Be prepared to pay a high price for this experience, but I’m sure it’s very luxurious. Book at https://www.lakeohara.com/

Itineraries

I’ll keep this simple. If you’re planning a hike to Lake O’Hara, take what you can get. I think my dream itinerary would be to stay for 3 nights at the campground, doing two day hikes on the Alpine Circuit and to Lake McArthur. But you can get creative with other options. There is enough time to bus up in the morning and do a full day hike. I took the bus and did the alpine circuit on the same day. There is bag storage at the campsite, so you can also do a day hike on the day you leave. We tried to do Lake McArthur on our last day, but it was very rainy, so we bailed halfway.

Day Hikes

There are lots of options for hiking from Lake O’Hara. I have done the Wiwaxy and Yukness sections of the Alpine Circuit and hiked around the lake, but I have not done the other hikes. I’ve included them here as a base for you to research further.

Lake O’Hara – An easy 3km walk around the Lake. A great option if you’re not up for the challenge of the alpine circuit or you’re tired from hiking up the access road.

Opabin Prospect – A 4km out and back trail to one of the most scenic viewpoints in the park. If you’re doing the full Alpine Circuit, you can visit this viewpoint enroute, but if you don’t have the time or energy for the full circuit, you can hike 2km each way from the bus drop-off.

Lake O’Hara Alpine Circuit – a breathtaking 12km trail that wraps around Lake O’Hara through the alpine. This is a very challenging trail as it covers a lot of elevation gain (up and down 3 times). However, there are lots of exit points if you don’t want to hike the full trail. I don’t recommend attempting this one if you also have to walk up and back the access road. If you would like a shorter version, I recommend doing the Wiwaxy Gap/Hubers Ledges to Lake Oesa, followed by the Yukness Ledges to Opabin Lake and Opabin Prospect, but cut out the All Souls section of the trail. Exercise extreme caution on this trail if it is rainy, or pick an alternative trail.

Lake Oesa – A beautiful lake that is an easier alternative to the Alpine Circuit. The easiest route is to hike 3km each way along the northern shore of Lake O’Hara, or add in a full circuit of Lake O’Hara on your way back. If you’re looking for more of a challenge and would like to sample the alpine circuit, you can hike up to the Wiwaxy Gap and take Hubers Ledges down to Lake Oesa, returning via Lake O’Hara (7km total). Another option could be to combine the Opabin Prospect viewpoint with the Yukness Ledges section of the Alpine Circuit to visit the lake, returning via Lake O’Hara (9km total).

Lake McArthur – An 8km round trip hike to another gorgeous alpine lake. There are lots of branches on this trail, so it is possible to turn it into a loop trail. The trail will take you over McArthur Pass and past the Elizabeth Parker Hut. You could combine this hike with the All Souls route of the Alpine Circuit to visit Opabin Prospect (10km total).

Linda Lake – a 10km trail that starts from the Lake O’Hara campground. It was recommended to me as an alternative hike to the alpine circuit on a rainy day, so I’m assuming it’s mostly forested.

Odaray Highline – only 4 groups per day are permitted on this trail to protect the wildlife corridor, which is managed through a self-registration system at the trailhead. It’s approximately 9km round trip from the Lake O’Hara bus stop.

Cathedral Park Backpacking Trip: The Lakes

December 13, 2025November 20, 2025 / Maria / Leave a comment

After an epic day exploring the Rim Trail and a better night’s sleep from repairing Carolyn’s sleeping pad, we were awoken by mountain goats snuffling around the campground near dawn. We both ignored them in our early morning stupor and decided to have a bit of a later start to the day. Since we’d already completed the Rim Trail, our only plan for the day was to visit the rest of the lakes in the core area of the park. We’d already swam in two of them and Carolyn was determined to bag all 5!

The rest of the campground had an earlier start and I assume most of them were hiking the Rim Trail. We left mid-morning and didn’t encounter anyone all day until we returned to the lake in the late afternoon. We decided to visit the lakes in a clockwise direction, with out first stop of the day at Lake-of-the-Woods. This is the smallest lake in the park, but it was quite nice. There used to be a campsite there and you could still see a lot of the remnants. Some of the tent pads seemed untouched, even though the trees were all burned down. One tent post even still had a backcountry permit attached to it!

While we wanted to swim in all 5 lakes, Carolyn’s real goal was to skinny dip in all 5 of the lakes. We’d been hoping to bag Quinescoe on the first day, but the lodge owners had been hanging out at the lake and we never got the chance. We’d already ticked Ladyslipper Lake off the list and Lake-of-the-Woods was our second success. We hoped no one would wander off the trail accidentally, and given we were the last people to leave the campground for the day, we were pretty confident we’d be alone. Lake-of-the-woods was probably the warmest of all the lakes, so I really enjoyed that one. It was sad though to look out at the ring of burned trees around the perimeter of the lake.

We hung out for a little while before continuing on to Pyramid Lake. In my opinion, Pyramid Lake was the worst of the casualties in the fire. Absolutely everything was burned and a lot of the trees had fallen down, leaving a mess of trunks everywhere. The old campground was located on the side of the lake, but it was so burned up, we couldn’t even find the trail. We did a little bit of bush-wacking around the edge of the lake until we found somewhere we could swim, but honestly, it was a real challenge! It’s not a good swimming lake, but we still managed to tick the 3rd lake off our skinny dipping challenge.

Our last objective was to hike up over the ridge to Glacier Lake. The start of the connector trail was burned, but as we approached the meadows around the lake, we left the burn zone behind us and there were still lots of untouched larch trees around the lake. We stumbled upon a few mountain goats in the meadow and then found a nice place to eat our lunch. We could see some hikers up along the ridge of the Rim Trail in the distance.

I mentioned in my last post that Ladyslipper Lake was Carolyn’s favourite lake in the park, but mine was Glacier Lake. Both are very nice, but Glacier lake felt more open with a big grassy meadow extending down to the edge of the lake. Plus, I liked that we could see the Rim Trail around the edge of the bowl. We checked swimming in Glacier Lake off our list and debated whether we might still be able to get Quinescoe Lake. We spent a bit of time playing in the meadow and filming some more of our tiktok dances before starting the hike back down to Quinescoe.

The trail pops out right in the campsite, but there is another trail that goes around to the back of the lake. There were people at the campsite, so we decided to continue on hiking until we found a big rock at the back of Quinescoe Lake. We ticked the last lake off our bucket list and then enjoyed sunbathing on the rocks for an hour before heading back to camp. It was a much more relaxed itinerary than the previous day, but we still managed to spend 5.5 hours hiking only 8km.

We decided to play a few games of crib next to the lake when we got back to camp and Carolyn made us popcorn for dessert. I’d made an apple crumble that we had for dessert after finishing the Rim Trail the previous day, so we definitely ate well on the trip! It was nice to camp at the same spot for 3 nights and not to have to pack up camp and lug around our heavy bags every day. It was a newer experience for Carolyn, as she tends to gravitate to thru hiking more than base camping. As we were lounging around, she did admit that it was pretty enjoyable to have it so easy!

The whole trip was a little bittersweet because I’m not sure when we’ll get to do a trip like this together again. Carolyn is moving back to Newfoundland at the end of the year. It’s a hard pill for me to swallow, even though I know it’s the right move for her and I think it will make her happy. But we’ve had 10 years of adventuring together in BC and I always call Carolyn my soul sister because I’ve never met anyone else who thinks so much like me. We are still very different people and we have different personalities, but we are almost always on the same page with how we approach problems. Sometimes I’m convinced we have a telepathic connection because we don’t even need to verbalize something to agree on a course of action. By the time I weigh all my options and decide what to do, Carolyn’s already arrived at the same conclusion.

I feel pretty confident we’ll continue hiking and backpacking together since I still call Newfoundland home and spend 2 weeks there every summer, but I know the opportunities won’t be as frequent in the future. No one else is as excited about making tiktoks with me in the backcountry, willing to be miserable together for days on end, or as tolerant of my (many) bathroom stories as Carolyn. When we hang out together, it feels exactly like what peak female friendship should be. This is getting to be more sentimental than I planned (I didn’t plan to talk about Carolyn leaving at all). The likelihood of her even reading this is pretty low – Carolyn, if you read this, comment “I cry a lot”.

After our last night in the backcountry, we got up early once again and had started hiking before anyone else had even gotten out of their tent. Like I said, we’re always on the same page, and 90% of the time that page says to get up early. We had 15km of hiking along the Lakeview Trail to get back to our car, followed by 5 hours of driving back to Vancouver. We filmed a few more tiktoks shortly after setting off, and then proved to ourselves that even though we were slow as cold molasses at hiking the Rim Trail, we have the capability to be fast when we want.

We ended up doing the entire 15km hike in 4.5 hours, including breaks. We barely stopped, except to film tiktoks, but it caught up with me after 12km and I stopped for a quick lunch break while Carolyn finished the last few kilometres to the car. I am glad that we did not hike in on the Lakeview Trail. It didn’t feel particularly steep on the downhill, but it’s long and it’s almost completely exposed. The Crater Creek fire burned all the trees along the trail, so while you get a good view towards the Rim Trail, it comes at the cost of total sun exposure. The trail crosses the road a few times before heading back into unburned forest before you reach the end. It would be a long slog to hike all the way up on that trail.

The trailhead is located right next to the Ashnola River, so we both took the opportunity to have a nice river bath before getting in the car. I didn’t have my pocket shower, but a good old fashioned cloth bath still does wonders in making you feel refreshed. Overall, I didn’t feel too stinky on this trip because of all the swimming. We made really quick time on the drive back to Vancouver, but of course, we had to stop for ice cream in Princeton, followed by McDonalds in Hope!

I’m not sure if and when I’ll make it back to Cathedral Park. I proud that we hiked in and out of the park, but I’m not super keen to do it again. I think I’d like to take advantage of the shuttle the next time I visit. While so much of the forest in the area did burn, there are still a handful of larch trees standing around the core area of the park, so I think I’d like to go back one day in the Fall to see the larches turn yellow. It is upsetting to see how much of the park was lost, but don’t let it stop you from making a trip there. All of the stone features are still standing, and we really felt that this was a special place. I’m glad I got to experience it, and it’s even more special that it was mine and Carolyn’s last backpacking trip, at least for a little while.