West Coast Trail: Pachena Bay to Darling River

August 1, 2026July 14, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

When I first moved to Vancouver in 2014, I was asked what I was most looking forward to doing and I said the West Coast Trail. I didn’t know anything about the trail at the time. Newfoundland has the East Coast Trail, which is over 300km of coastal hiking that runs along the edge of the avalon peninsula. The trail runs from community to community and the entire thing can be completed as day hikes, with the longest section being ~23km. I thought the West Coast Trail was like the East Coast Trail and I was keen to explore a few sections.

I quickly learned how wrong I was. The West Coast Trail is a 75km coastal hike on Vancouver Island, but unlike the East Coast Trail, it is mostly done in one shot. There is one exit near the mid-point of the trail, but it is a multi-day hiking objective that draws visitors from all over the world. It’s one of the most well known trails in British Columbia and often recognized on world class hiking lists. I hadn’t backpacked at all in 2014 and so I quickly removed the West Coast Trail from my bucket list in favour of some more achievable day hikes. However, when I started backpacking in 2016, I still wasn’t keen on re-adding it to my list.

Because of it’s popularity, it’s a very regulated trail. Everyone on the trail must have a valid permit and the permits sell out very quickly. I started hearing about some other alternatives to the West Coast Trail, and I decided to tackle those instead. The Juan de Fuca Marine Trail is 47km of coastal hiking immediately south of the West Coast Trail. It’s often known as the West Coast Trail Lite and because it doesn’t require permits, a lot of people hike this trail first. I did the Juan de Fuca Trail with Emily in 2017 and I found it so challenging that I was further deterred from completing the West Coast Trail.

Coastal hikes on Vancouver Island are particularly challenging. The coast is often rainy and foggy, which results in a lot of muddy sections through the forest. While there is a lot of beach walking, it’s not possible to stick to the coast all the time, and the trails usually feature challenging muddy detours up and down through the forest. Even when beach walking is possible, it provides its own set of obstacles as walking for hours on cobble, dry sand, or rocky boulders can be very tiring.

As I became a more confident hiker, I decided to hike the Cape Scott and North Coast Trails in 2020. Together, they are similar in length to the West Coast Trail and the North Coast Trail has a reputation for being particularly challenging. Even though I felt more equipped than when I had hiked the Juan de Fuca Trail, the North Coast Trail still proved to be extremely challenging. We completed the trail over 6 days, which was pretty ambitious and we were all exhausted by the end. At times, it can be hard to hike faster than 1km every 45 minutes, which makes for very long days.

After that experience, I turned my attention from the West Coast Trail entirely. I guess because it was so regulated, I figured it was better to do the less popular trails first. The trail wasn’t going anywhere and I didn’t feel in a rush to complete it. Until 2026, when the urge finally struck. I’m not sure why this year over any other year, but as I was making my plans for the summer in early 2026, I suddenly became very aware of the fact that I’ve lived in BC for more than 12 years and still hadn’t completed this iconic trail. I take great pride in this blog and it’s been doing well over the past 2 years. It started to feel like a real gap that I haven’t covered this trail on the blog, and so I decided that this was the year, I was finally going to hike the trail.

I initially debated solo hiking and seeing if I could fast-pack it, but I quickly abandoned the idea. Why rush through one of BC’s most famous hikes? Instead, I decided I wanted to enjoy the experience, and if I was to enjoy it, it would be a lot more fun with a friend. So I invited Adriana to join me, who was also very enthusiastic about hiking the trail. Amazingly, when permits released, she found herself #59 in the queue, which I’ve never heard of, so we got all our preferred dates and direction for permits with no issues. We decided to take advantage of the Canada Day stat holiday and complete the trail in late June / early July.

Now that I’ve covered that fun piece of story telling, let’s actually talk about the West Coast Trail. In short, it’s a logistical nightmare. Actually, that may be unfair, Parks Canada does take care of a lot of the trail logistics for you. There are two boat rides required on the trail, both of which have fees, but they are both included in your permit, so you don’t have to deal with it directly. What’s not included is transportation between trailheads and any additional camping fees on either end of the trail. The hike runs from Pachena Bay to Gordon River, with a Parks Canada office on either end where you can check in and out and complete the mandatory orientation. The main decision you have to make before getting your permit is which direction you’d like to hike the trail.

Here’s a few things to consider:
– Parking is free at Pachena Bay, but not at Gordon River (a whopping $20 per day)
– The trail is easier on the north end (Pachena Bay) and gets more challenging towards Gordon River
– The first campsite on the Pachena Bay side is 12km from the trailhead. The first campsite on the Gordon River side is 6km from the trailhead
– Owen Point is one of the longest and most impressive tidal sections. It starts 6km from Gordon River and is 5km long. I really recommend building your trip around ensuring you’ll have a tidal window in which to hike to Owen Point

The final point was really the only one that I considered when choosing my direction. If I started in Gordon River, it would have added a full day to my trip in order to accommodate the trail orientation, boat schedule, and tidal window for Owen Point. For that reason alone, we decided to start in Pachena Bay. But I don’t regret this decision. I liked that we started with the easier half of the trail, allowing us to gain mileage early and get comfortable with the trail as it got harder. It also meant that while we had heavier bags for the longer distance days, we had eaten through a lot of our food by the time we hit the more challenging sections of trail (which honestly took just as long even though our distance was shorter). There are a lot more ladders on the south end of the trail, so I appreciated having a lighter pack for those as well.

I was not happy about the $20 per day parking fee. I wasn’t aware of this when we made the booking. We took the ferry from Tsawassen to Sidney on Saturday morning. The WCT shuttle between the two trailheads only runs once per day in each direction, leaving Gordon River at 9am and Pachena Bay at 1pm. We didn’t have enough time to catch either shuttle on Saturday, so we planned to stay in Gordon River overnight on Saturday, catch the shuttle on Sunday morning, at start from Pachena Bay in the afternoon. This meant we had no option but to pay for parking.

There’s a campground located on either end of the trail as well, so you can plan to stay overnight at either Gordon River or Pachena Bay. I can’t speak to the campground at Pachena Bay, but I didn’t have the best experience at Pacheedaht, which is located in Gordon River. There’s nothing wrong with the sites, but when we encountered some issues, it became evident the campground was not well managed.

The WCT shuttle company is great and I appreciate that they run the shuttle daily, but oh my goodness, the experience was miserable. Nothing personal against the company, it’s just that the road is mostly gravel and I felt sick the entire time. It’s a 4 hour drive between trailheads and the driver is supposed to provide a direct service, but I really appreciated that he gave us a pee break in Lake Cowichan. Definitely bring gravol or something for motion sickness with you on the bus. I felt terrible the entire ride and it was also freezing. But we did see three elk, so that was cool.

We arrived in Pachena Bay at 1pm. It’s an extremely limited site, it has two outhouses and a garbage bin, but nothing else. The trail orientation is scheduled for 2pm, but the park ranger gave it to us at 1:30pm since we were all there. Even so, it was 2:30pm by the time we departed. It was a real mauzy day, not raining, but overcast and a bit cold. The trail starts with a short tidal section across the beach, but we were outside of the tidal window, so we had to start the trail in the forest. This means we were immediately introduced to the ladders.

For those not familiar with the West Coast Trail, it is very well known for its ladders. There are over 100 ladders on the trail and many of them are quite long. I’m not sure why the West Coast Trail developed this way, there are no ladders on either the Juan de Fuca or North Coast Trails, but when they developed the WCT, the decision was made to go up and down over all of the obstacles rather than find routes around them. This means that most of the elevation gain on the trail is done via ladders. We started with 6 or 7 ladders up and over the headland. The ladders were much taller than I was expecting and so I was a little bit nervous on the first few. Going up wasn’t too bad, but going down really freaked me out. Some ladders are missing rungs and when you go down, your feet are exploring the ladder first rather than your hands, which made me feel like I needed to look down to watch my feet. I got more confident on the ladders as time went on, but the first few are definitely a little scary.

It’s 12km from Pachena Bay to the first campsite, which is Michigan Creek. We hadn’t planned out exactly where we wanted to camp every night, but we were keen to see if we could go 14km on Day 1 to get to Darling River Camp. This is because we had a tidal limitation the following morning and it would be easier to time it right if we were a little bit closer to it. But we didn’t want to overdo it, so we decided to make a decision once we got to Michigan Creek.

It was a bit of a slow start to the trail. It took us some time to adjust to the ladders and figure out what to do with our poles. We didn’t want to secure them to our packs at every ladder, but we didn’t want them loose either, for safety reasons. I ended up collapsing mine every time we did a ladder and tucking them into my waist belt so that I could be hands-free and not have them acting as a hazard. Adriana wasn’t feeling great after the bus ride, so we started off with a pretty slow pace, which wasn’t ideal given our late start. The main thing on our side was that it was very close to solstice, so we had a lot of daylight.

Fortunately, our pace picked up a lot after the first few kilometres. It was originally overcast, but it was quite humid and the sun did make an appearance later in the day, so we ended up changing into shorts and t-shirt and we were able to knock out some distance after that. We ended up doing the first 9km in ~3 hours, arriving at Sea Lion Rock around 5:30pm. It’s the first real view on the trail, looking out at the ocean and all the sea lions basking on the large rock shelf. We were both quite hungry and we still had 3-5km to go, so we decided to stop and have our supper. It resulted in an hour-long break, but it was definitely worth it and we left the viewpoint feeling much more energetic.

We finally exited the forest at Michigan Creek Camp, which is the start of the beach walking. There were several people already camping at Michigan Creek and we were still feeling good from supper and happy to arrive at the beach, so we decided to tackle the last two kilometres to Darling River. It was a good choice and we really enjoyed walking along the beach during golden hour. There were a lot of stragglers heading to Michigan Creek from the opposite direction and Darling River ended up being the least busy campsite we stayed at all week, so it was a good choice.

We arrived at Darling River around 8:30pm and I spotted the waterfall that cascades out of the forest and into Darling River before flowing to the ocean. It’s set back from the beach and no one was there, so like I was possessed, I immediately became fixated on the idea of swimming in the waterfall. Adriana was more concerned with getting to camp, so she kept going to find a site across the river, but I put on my sandals and trekked up through the creek to get to the falls. I ended up having a little skinny dip bath in the pool and arrived at camp 30 minutes later feeling incredibly refreshed!

We’d already eaten, so all we had to do was set up camp on the beach. Adriana found a really nice sandy spot and we took care of our nightly chores and then went straight to bed. It was our first of many nights camping on the beach and it felt really restful to hang out in the sand and watch the sunset before heading to bed. It was a much later arrival at camp than I prefer, but considering our late start, I thought it was a pretty successful first day! Tune in next week for Part 2!

Pump Peak Backpacking Trip

July 18, 2026July 8, 2026 / Maria / Leave a comment

Considering how long I’ve lived in Vancouver, it’s a bit shocking that this was my first time hiking to Pump Peak though it’s not been for lack of effort. Back in 2019, I tried to hike via Pump Peak on my way to Elsay Lake, but I ended up on the wrong trail and because of the time crunch to get to Elsay Lake, I ended up skipping Pump Peak entirely. I’ve also made several attempts to visit Pump Peak in the winter, but I always find myself completely exhausted by the time I reach Brockton Point and I’ve abandoned Pump Peak on more than one occasion.

I had to cancel a trip at the last minute in mid-June of this year, but I still wanted to get outside and do something, so I decided to make another attempt at Pump Peak, this time as an overnight objective. I was solo hiking with my dog, Sadie, so I thought Pump Peak would be a good option since it’s popular and so close to the city. I ended up having the best time, I can’t believe I waited so long to hike there!

I did this hike over the summer solstice and I had lots of daylight, so I didn’t end up leaving my house in Coquitlam until 5pm. Me and Sadie were ready to start hiking at 6pm and by 7:30pm, we were at the top. I knew it was a short hike, but I was still astounded at how quickly I went from my house to the summit. It’s a very achievable objective if you make a last minute decision to go backpacking.

For those who aren’t familiar. Pump Peak is located in Mount Seymour Provincial Park in North Vancouver. It’s very popular in all seasons because of its proximity to the city. In the summer, you can park in the main ski resort lot, unless you’re going overnight, in which case you need to park in Lot 2. In the winter, you need to park in the lot along the road (also known as Lot 1) since the ski resort is in operation. You also need to get a day use permit from BC Parks in the winter. These release 2 days in advance of your trip, at 7am. They are free, but they sell out fast. No permits are required in the summer.

The hike involves climbing the trail along the edge of the ski resort, or in the summer, you do have the option to walk right up the ski trails. I opted to take the side trail since there is more shade. The trail goes to Brockton Point, which also has great views of the city. In the summer, it took me an hour to get to Brockton Point, but in the winter, it takes me closer to 90 minutes. It’s approximately 2.5km and 250m of elevation gain, closer to 3km in the winter since the parking lot is farther away.

After Brockton Point, the trail continues for another 1.5km and 150m in elevation gain to the top of Pump Peak, also known as 1st Peak. In the summer, this took me another 30 minutes, but I’d budget for another hour in the winter. It is the steepest part of the trail as it winds along the back of the peak. There were a lot of mosquitoes in the summer, so be prepared with fly spray and a thermacell. Please be aware that in the winter, the portion of the trail between Brockton and Pump Peak is in challenging avalanche terrain. Don’t be lulled into a false sense of security by the crowds, you should have AST1 training and travel with the appropriate equipment in this area in the winter.

While Pump Peak is very popular for camping, please be aware that there is no campground and it is considered wild camping. This means there is no outhouse or bear cache. You should be prepared to dig a cathole if you need to poop, and you should bring a bear bin or bear bag for your food. There are not many trees, so it’s not really possible to do a bear hang. My sense was that most people camping in the area were not practicing proper bear safety and it’s important that we do, otherwise the area will become dangerous to bears and humans.

Finding somewhere to pitch your tent can be a little bit challenging because there are no established tent pads. Most likely you will be pitching your tent on bare rock. However, it wasn’t as bad as I thought it might be because there is so much space available to chose from. There were quite a few people camping, but everyone was very spread out and I didn’t have too much trouble finding somewhere to set up my tent that wasn’t crowded. I opted to set up near some of the trees so that I would have privacy when I needed to pee.

There is nowhere to set up on the actual summit and it will be crowded with people, so do not attempt to pitch your tent up there. Be aware that there is also no water source. There were a few small tarns around, which was helpful to Sadie, but I would not recommend trying to drink or even filter that water. Just hike up all the water you need for your trip, including for your dog.

It’s a beautiful place to camp though. There are incredible views of both the city and the backcountry. From the peak, you can enjoy a 360 degree view in all directions. We arrived well before sunset, so after setting up the tent, me and Sadie went up to the peak before looking for solitude underneath, in which to enjoy the sunset. Because it was the solstice, it was a particularly long sunset and the wind kept the mosquitoes away.

What was really annoying was that the summit is also a popular destination for sunrise enthusiasts. This would be fine, but on this particular day, a group a very noisy boys decided to hike up to the summit at 4:30am and were not shy about yelling and laughing very loudly. Sound travels really well in the alpine, so everyone on the mountain was privy to their conversation and it was very annoying. I had a similar experience when I did Golden Ears last year and it’s always men who act this way, so please try and have a little consideration that at 4:30am, most of the people in the nearby tents might be trying to sleep and they can definitely hear you.

My thermacell was definitely essential to enjoy breakfast the following morning as the mosquitoes returned in full force with the sun. A lot of people packed up their tents quickly to escape them, but me and Sadie were able to hang out for a little bit before heading back down the mountain.

What I really loved about this trip was the ability to start hiking late (I wouldn’t recommend going too early because the mosquitoes will drive you crazy) and the ability to arrive home early the following day. I felt like this trip enabled me to have a fun night outside while still leaving most of my weekend available to relax or pursue other interests. I’m used to driving so far away for my backpacking trips and having them take up the entire weekend, it was nice to still have lots of time to myself with this trip.

In conclusion, this is a really safe and convenient trip for those living in the lower mainland. I would definitely recommend it, but please respect the backcountry. Practice proper bear safety and leave no trace when wild camping. I did notice that people were also camping on Brockton Point and I’m not sure if that’s allowed. The BC Parks website says you can camp anywhere north of Brockton Point, but I’m not sure if that includes the Point itself.

Lightning Lakes Backpacking Trip

July 11, 2026July 8, 2026 / Maria / 2 Comments

Last week I wrote about Keats Island, which was the first in a slew of backpacking trips I did in late Spring. Many people are familiar with Lightning Lakes, which is a popular location for day trippers in Manning Park. I’ve done a lot of backpacking and car camping in Manning Park and I love spending a day relaxing at the lake in the summer. At this point, I think I’ve hiked the majority of the popular trails in Manning Park, including many times hiking around Lightning Lakes, but I’ve never done the Lightning Lakes Chain Trail. I’ve been wanting to do it for years and I finally made it happen in early June.

Lightning Lakes Chain Trail starts at the main parking lot and includes hiking around the first two lakes before continuing 11km into the backcountry, passing 3 more lakes along the way. It’s a good hike for early in the season because the trail follows the river through the valley and has minimal elevation gain. So even though the hike starts at a pretty high elevation (1200m), all the snow melts at once, meaning the trail is usually completely clear by June. I first became aware of this hike in 2018 when I did the Skyline II Trail from Strawberry Flats to Mowich Camp. That trail hikes up to the top of the mountain and then follows the ridge through Despair Pass and up to Snow Camp Mountain. From there, you can see Thunder Lake, which is the final lake on the Lightning Lakes Chain Trail, located in the valley below.

On this occasion, I left my house on Saturday morning with my dog, Sadie, to meet my friend in the park. I haven’t seen very much online or on social media about this trail, so I wasn’t expecting it to be busy. We met at noon and started hiking around 1pm. It was a pretty hot day for early-June, especially in Manning Park, which can be cold. I find that you never know what you’re going to get in Manning – you’ll either get beautiful sunny weather, or it will be cloudy and absolutely freezing (more common) – but it feels like there’s no in between.

So I was thrilled to get warm weather. Even though it had been nice in the city for weeks, Lightning Lakes was my first real mountain hike of the summer and I felt a giddy anticipation for the season to come. This was enhanced by the fact that the trail was filled with wildflowers! I can’t ever recall seeing wildflowers in June before, but we saw common paintbrush, lupin, arnica, columbine, valerian sitka, spreading phlox, pentstemon, and violet (among others I couldn’t identify).

It was busy along the first Lightning Lake, but the crowds tapered off when we hit the second Lightning Lake. We stopped for a snack at the end of the second lake, before continuing along the rest of the chain trail. From that point onwards, we saw very few people, I can only recall passing one or two groups of day hikers. The trail continues to Flash Lake and Strike Lake, with the campsite located just past Strike Lake. The challenge is that this trail doesn’t see a lot of trail maintenance and there is a fair amount of blowdown, so we did a lot of crawling over and under trees and my legs got pretty scratched up.

I wanted to swim in all the new lakes I’d never been to before, but Flash Lake wasn’t particularly nice. It’s a bit scummy and I couldn’t see anywhere nice to enter the water, so I ended up skipping it. Strike Lake was a little bit better, but there’s still not a lot of good places for swimming. Close to the end of the lake, we found a decent spot and took another break. Colin had a snack while I went for a swim. The water was cold, which it always is in Manning, but surprisingly, I didn’t find it too bad. We were pretty sweaty from the humidity, so it was a nice break to cool off.

The campsite is just a few hundred metres past the lake, but what I wasn’t prepared for was how busy it was at the campsite considering the trail had been empty. It is a fairly large campsite, with several tent pads spread out along the river and through the forest, but they were all full. There was a school group that had hiked in on Friday that was taking up a large portion of the sites near the river, but even excluding them, there were still a lot of hiking groups. I do wonder if this campground is busy all summer long, or just in Spring/early Summer, since it’s a lower elevation hike. Either way, we couldn’t get a tent pad and wandered around for a while looking for empty space before squeezing in among the trees near the river. We had Sadie with us and there was another dog on the other side of the campground, so we mostly tried to avoid them. I think it ended up working out.

We arrived around 3:30pm, meaning it took us approximately 2.5 hours to hike in, including the swimming and snack breaks. I was keen to continue hiking to Thunder Lake, so once we set up camp, we packed supper with us and hiked another 3km to the final lake. Trail maintenance definitely didn’t improve after the campground. There was still a good number of trees blown across the trail, but what was more annoying was that some sections of the trail were very overgrown with shrubs, and in one area, a very prickly plant. I’m not sure what it was, but we quickly noticed it stinging us as we were walking through it, so shorts weren’t a great idea. It was probably only along 5 minutes of the trail, so we just suffered through it, but we both changed into pants on the way back.

As far as the trail goes, Thunder Lake is a bit of an anticlimactic way to end. It’s a beautiful lake, but it’s really hard to access. As you approach the lake, the trail goes through a very steep boulder field, with the river flowing along underneath. You end up getting pretty high above the lake and the area doesn’t look entirely stable, so it’s not a great place to stop. Eventually you reach the treeline at the edge of the lake and there’s a sign saying that it’s dangerous to go further. We did go a little bit past the sign and I can confirm that it’s not worth it. The trail got steeper and was very dicey with loose rock overhead, so I don’t recommend it. It’s too steep to get down to the water, so we backtracked to the sign.

It’s frustrating to be so close to the lake, but unable to access it. We did find a small side trail leading down to the edge of the water, but there’s limited space to hang out. Fortunately there weren’t many other people around because it was late in the day, so we managed to go for a quick swim and had an awkward time cooking supper along the slope. I couldn’t even set up my camp chair because there was nowhere flat enough. So if you hike all the way to the lake, don’t assume you’ll be able to get down to the water, and if you try, definitely be very careful. I think it could be easy to get into trouble here or cause a small rockslide. I did not feel comfortable when we were bumbling around in the forest trying to find a way down, which is why we came back.

Otherwise it was a pretty chill trip. We hiked back to the campsite, arriving around 8pm and hanging out for an hour before going to bed. There is an outhouse and a bear cache, though the outhouse is a bit hidden in the trees. When you arrive at the main sign, it’s up through the trees to the right. I spent some time reading before bed and slept well with the sound of the river next to my tent.

It took us another 2.5 hours to hike back to the parking lot the following day. I would have liked to go for a swim at Lightning Lake before driving home, but I had Sadie with me and she’s a lot to manage when there’s people around, so we opted to skip it. Overall, I did enjoy the trail, in spite of the blowdown. The hike is primarily in the trees and not one of the more breathtaking hikes in Manning Park, so I probably wouldn’t choose to do it in the middle of the summer, but it was a perfect early season hike! Manning is still my favourite provincial park in BC and I love any time I get to recreate there.