Favourite Hikes in Southwestern BC: Part IV

July 26, 2023December 17, 2024 / Maria / 4 Comments

If you’re thinking, “didn’t she just post her 10 favourite hikes last week?” You are correct, I did. But I have a severe backlog of trails to post about, so Part III featured my favourite trails from 2019-2020, while this post focuses on my 2021-2022 era. Part III was my “covid era”, so it featured a lot of trails closer to Vancouver. In my opinion, Part IV has some really scenic hikes because post-covid, all I wanted to do was hike and I discovered some real gems! Check out Part I, Part II, and Part III.

#10 Hut Lake – Let’s start off with a really obscure hike. The snow pack was insanely high in 2022, which postponed my alpine hiking season. In our desperation to find somewhere low elevation to camp, we stumbled upon Levette and Hut Lake outside Squamish. Levette is well known by the locals, but if you continue past Levette, you’ll eventually come to the much less popular Hut Lake Rec Site. It seems to be mostly used by the 4×4 community, but we had it to ourselves on a weekend in mid-July. The hike is entirely in the forest and it’s not the most memorable lake, but I still had the best time swimming in the insanely warm water and recommend it as a good Spring hike or rainy day trail. (8km, 500m elevation gain, 4 hours)

#9 Bedwell Lake – Bedwell Lake is a popular trail in Strathcona Provincial Park. It’s located at the back of the park and ease of access can depend on the current state of the road. When we visited, a normal AWD SUV would access it fine, but I’ve heard sometimes you need 4WD or high clearance. Parts of the trail are a bit technical, with some ladder sections, but you’re rewarded with beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains. We wanted to continue on to Cream Lake, but unfortunately we got rained out on our visit. I’m keen to return to see it in the sun! (10km, 600m elevation gain, 6 hours)

#8 Slesse Memorial Trail – There are some real gems in Chilliwack Valley. Slesse is a challenging one to get to as you definitely need 4WD and high clearance. It’s a bit of a somber hike because it’s the location of a plane crash, but it also has gorgeous views of Chilliwack Provincial Park and across the border. With over 1000m of elevation gain, it is a slog to get to the top and the views are relatively limited until the summit. But once you hit the ridgeline, there’s a glacier in front of you and a wall of mountains behind you, so you really get a pay-off. (15km, 1100m elevation gain, 9 hours)

#7 Barnet Trail – One of the things I love about living near Vancouver is that you don’t have to go way into the wilderness to hike and the Barnet Trail on Burnaby Mountain has become one of my favourite semi-urban hikes. We hike here regularly with Sadie and I love the views from Burnaby Mountain Park and through the forest. We always start at Burnaby Mountain Park, and I have to admit, the best view of the hike is at the trailhead, but it’s the perfect hike to get your body moving when you don’t want to drive anywhere or have limited time. (9km, 300m elevation, 3 hours)

#6 Myra Falls – I debated for a long time about whether to put this on this list or not. At 1.5km, it barely qualifies as a hike and is definitely more of a walk, but it’s such a beautiful waterfall! It’s also located in Strathcona Provincial Park and it’s so beautiful Brandon and I had to visit it twice! It’s an easy walk down to the Falls from the parking lot and then you can explore around the area. Definitely exercise caution as there are some steep sections, but after swimming in the waterfall, Brandon and I hiked down over the rocks to also swim in Buttle Lake. (1.5km, 50m elevation gain, 1 hour)

#5 Seed Peak – I did this trail in the late Fall of 2021 and even before I finished, I knew I’d have to return some day. There was already snow on the ground when we visited and I was having a rough day physically, so we didn’t even finish the hike, but I was still astounded by the views. Access is a bit tricky for this one as it’s way off the beaten track outside Squamish and I’d recommend 4WD and high clearance. Part of the trail is actually located in the far north end of Pinecone Burke Park (which starts in Coquitlam) and there are gorgeous views of the backcountry everywhere you look. We only made it to the base of Seed Peak, but I definitely need to return for the rest of the hike! (13km, 800m elevation gain, 8 hours)

#4 Tricouni Meadows – My apologies for including so many 4WD access hikes on this list, this is the last one, but I couldn’t leave it off! Tricouni Meadows is located way up in the wilderness north of Squamish Valley. It’s a slog to get to the trailhead and another slog to get to the lake, but you are rewarded once you get there. There are several lakes at the base of Tricouni Peak and it’s a bit technical travelling between them, but there’s space for several campsites. We visited Pendant Lake (my favourite), Spearpoint Lake, and Reflection Lake. From reflection Lake, you can continue up to the top of Tricouni Peak, which I didn’t do, but would like to return and complete as a backpacking trip. It’s a surprisingly busy campsite for such challenging access, so get there early! (8km, 500m elevation gain, 8 hours)

#3 Skywalk North – This hike is north of Whistler and better known as Iceberg Lake. It’s a popular hike, but most people only hike to the lake and back. It’s a bit longer, but I recommend turning it into a loop hike by doing with the Skywalk North or South trail. We chose the North Trail, it’s longer, but more scenic. It’s a long hike through the trees, but once you hit the lake, you continue hiking up to another summit above the lake with incredible views looking back. From there you continue through several meadows before arriving at Screaming Cat Lake and returning through the trees. Pay special attention to the trail stats though, this is a rewarding, but challenging hike. (22km, 1200m elevation gain, 10 hours)

#2 Opal Cone/Mamquam Lake – If you go back to my previous posts, you’ll find Elfin Lakes on my first list. Elfin Lakes remains one of my favourite hikes to this day, but I can finally add Opal Cone and Mamquam Lake to the list! This are both continuation hikes from Elfin Lakes and are not intended to be done in a day. Camp at the lake and do either one or both of these as a day hike. Personally, I like Opal Cone better, which is in peak alpine terrain, but it was rewarding to finally make it to Mamquam Lake after a failed attempt back in 2018. (14-22km, 1000m elevation gain, 9 hours)

#1 Sunshine Coast Trail – No other trail had any chance of the number one spot with the Sunshine Coast Trail in the mix. I hiked this entire 180km trail in 2022 and I’m in love with every inch of it! You don’t need to hike the whole thing, there are so many highlights on this trail and lots of them are accessible as day hikes or 2-3 day trips. The backcountry huts are what make this trail so special, but my favourite sections include Tin Hat, Walt Hill, Manzanita Bluff, Sarah Point, Appleton Canyon, Inland Lake, Rainy Day Lake, and Fairview Bay – basically the entire trail. (180km, 7-12 days)

Continue on to Part V.

Favourite Hikes in Southwestern BC Part III

July 19, 2023August 13, 2024 / Maria / 4 Comments

I moved to BC in 2014. In late 2016, I wrote a post sharing my top 10 favourite hiking trails in Southwest BC, which I followed up with Part II in late 2018 with 10 more of my favourite trails. I’ve been wanting to write a follow up post for a while, but I’ve hiked well over 100 more trails since my last post in 2018, so it’s a lot a trails to choose from! I decided to break it into two more posts. Part III will cover another 10 of my favourite trails that I hiked between 2019 and 2020, while Part IV will cover 2021 to 2022. Is this a bit excessive? Maybe… but my blog, my rules! I like the symmetry of a top 10 post for every 2 years I’ve been here, so I guess you’ll get Part V at the end of 2024!

Without further ado, here’s a few of my favourite hikes from the 2019-2020 era!

#10 High Falls Creek – Squamish has a few hidden gems and in my opinion, this is one of them. It’s located about 30 minutes out on Squamish Valley Road and after a quick ascent, boasts beautiful views of both High Falls Creek and the Squamish River. It’s a bit of a scramble on the way up, so I would save it for a fair weather day. The waterfall is the main highlight, but my favourite part is the viewpoint after the waterfall and the peaceful forest walking. Turn this into a loop by walking back the Forest Service Road, which has more incredible views of the Valley! (10km, 500m elevation gain, 4 hours)

#9 Mount Norman – I stumbled upon this short little hike when I kayaked around Pender Island. The formal hike starts just past the bridge to the South Island and it’s a short uphill hike to a viewpoint over Bedwell Harbour and the surrounding Gulf Islands. It’s only 3km round trip, but if you’d like to extend it, take the left branch before you get back to the road and hike down to the Beaumont Campground, which has gorgeous views out over the bluff and along Bedwell Harbour. (3-6km, 300m elevation gain, 1-2 hours)

#8 Viewpoint Beach – This hike is located in Golden Ears Park and has been gaining a lot of popularity since the pandemic as a good beginner backpacking trail. Because of it’s low elevation, it’s snow free in the Spring and is an easy 8km round trip hike along Gold Creek to Viewpoint Beach. It makes for a great day trip, or an overnight trip, though it can get busy. I’d recommend hiking in Friday night or early Saturday morning. The trail continues on to Half Moon Beach if you’d like to extend the trip, but it’s not well maintained, so be prepared for a bit of route finding. (8km, 200m elevation gain, 3 hours)

#7 Zoa Peak – I’ve attepted Zoa Peak twice now, once in the Fall (where I got smoked out by wildfires) and once in the Winter. For this reason, I’ve never made it past the sub-peak, but I still recommend it as a good all year hike. I think the Coquihalla Summit Rec Area is vastly underrated and Zoa makes for a scenic hike in the summer and a relatively safe snowshoe in the winter. Don’t go past the sub-peak in the winter without your Avalanche Safety Training, but it’s a popular area for ski touring in the winter! (10km, 700m elevation gain, 5 hours)

#6 Elk/Thurston Mountain – Elk Mountain is a popular hike in the summer and especially in the Fall when it gets a pop of colour. There’s a lot of elevation gain, but it’s a relatively simple trail until close to the top, when you pop into the woods for a steeper ascent to the summit. It’s 8km round trip to the Elk Mountain Summit, but 800m in elevation gain, so don’t underestimate it! If you have the time, I recommend continuing on another ~2km as the hike continues along the ridgeline to Thurston Peak. It’s an 16km round trip to go all the way to Thurston, but there’s no view from Thurston Peak, so if you’d like to save yourself a bit of time, just enjoy the ridge walk for a few kilometers and then turn around. From Elk Mountain onwards are beautiful views of Chilliwack Valley and Mount Baker. (8-16km, 800-1000m elevation gain, 4-8 hours)

#5 Pinecone Burke Provincial Park – Pinecone Burke was one of my best pandemic discoveries. When we weren’t allowed to leave our neighbourhood in 2020, I spent a lot of time hiking around Eagle Mountain, Minnekhada, and Pinecone Burke. Pinecone Burke is located right on the northern edge of Coquitlam (in the Burke Mountain area) and it’s BC Parks least funded park. As a result, it has no infrastructure (not even a toilet) and gets few visitors. It’s mostly frequented by mountain bikers, but there are some truly lovely trails in this park! My personal favourite is to extend the Woodland Walk up to Sawblade Falls, but the Coquitlam Lakeview Trail is also reasonably popular. The park is primarily forest views, so it’s a perfect rainy day or Spring hike. You can hike the Woodland Walk year round, but the Lakeview Trail usually has snow until June. (8-14km, up to 700m elevation gain, 2-6 hours)

#4 Brew Lake – Brew Lake is another relatively unknown trail off the Sea to Sky Highway, just before Whistler. Even I discovered this trail by accident when the Rainbow Lake trailhead was closed due to an aggressive bear. We decided to hike to Brew Lake instead and spend the night in early Fall and were rewarded with beautiful lake views and an empty trail. We didn’t know what condition the road was in, so we parked at the Whistler RV Park and hiked the full 17km round-trip trail. But if you have the proper vehicle, you can considerably shorten the trail along forestry roads. If you have time, extend the hike a little further to Brew Hut, which I still have to return for. (17km, 900m elevation gain, 9 hours)

#3 Minnekhada Regional Park – Minnekhada Park was my other pandemic discovery and remains one of my favourite places near the city for a leisurely hike. The highlight of the park is High Knoll, which is known as the “Quarry Rock of Coquitlam” and has beautiful views down to the Pitt River and Pitt-Addington Marsh. Part of the park burned down in 2022, but it recently re-opened and is great for bird watching along the lakes. (5-8km, 200m elevation gain, 2-3 hours)

#2 Cape Scott and the North Coast Trail – This is where I stretch the boundary of “Southwestern BC” just a little bit. Cape Scott and the NCT are at the far northern tip of Vancouver Island, but I feel this was one of the defining hikes I did between 2018 and 2020. We hadn’t planned to do this hike, but when our Assiniboine trip got cancelled during the pandemic, we decided to hike 85km along this intense and remote coastal trail instead. This trail is a real challenge and is not for the faint of heart. Be prepared for an incredibly slow pace and knee high mud, but boy is it a rewarding hike. One of my most memorable. (85km, 5-7 days)

#1 Howe Sound Crest Trail – This is another incredibly challenging trail that tested my endurance when I did it in 30 degree weather, but it’s a trail I think about often. It was on my bucket list for 3 years before I finally did it over the course of 2 nights and was able to soak in every inch of this scenic trail. The trail provides the opportunity to summit the West Lion, Mount Harvey, and Mount Brunswick. I didn’t summit any of them, but I camped beneath the Lions and lounged in vibrant Brunswick Lake instead. I’d like to return one day for each of these summits, but this was a trail where it was more about the journey than the summits. (30km, 1500m elevation gain, 2-3 days)

Continue to Part IV.

Desolation Sound Kayak Trip Part III

June 21, 2023August 13, 2024 / Maria / 1 Comment

On day 3 of our paddling trip to Desolation Sound Marine Park, we got up at 6am to get ahead of the wind (as I explained in Part II). We packed up our campsite on East Curme Island and were on the water around 8am. It was flat water at this time, so we had a very leisurely paddle over to Otter Island and along the coast to Bold Head Campground.

I was really curious about Bold Head because I’d read it was a nice site. It’s backed right again the cliffside and there are several tent pads up at the head, but it was empty. I could understand why – as nice as it is, I’d still pick the Curme Islands when given the choice, so I suspect it may act primarily as overflow for the islands.

The campsites in the Park are all first-come-first-serve and according to BC Parks, if the tent pads are all taken, you should move on to another site. Though they do state that if moving on isn’t safe, find the least impactful spot (somewhere with no vegetation that looks like people have camped there before). Fortunately we didn’t have any issues with availability on the May Long weekend, but I could see it being an issue in the height of summer. The problem is, the islands are all very small, and while there’s 3 of them, there’s limited options for overflow camping since most of the sites are set on bedrock. Fortunately there are a lot of tent pads, and I assume that’s why.

But if you do find the islands full, head over to Bold Head – it’s not far and it is nice. The toilet situation is quite different though. The other campsites I visited all had an outhouse (sometimes two), but Bold Head just has a throne toilet and at the time of our visit, it had a wasp nest inside! There are bear caches at all the mainland sites, but none on the island sites. It is also a tricky landing on Bold Head, but manageable.

Unfortunately our simple paddling was short lived as the wind came up suddenly while we were touring around Bold Head. It wasn’t too bad at first, but as soon as we started paddling across Tenedos Bay, it really caught us unaware and started hitting us broadside. It was still manageable, but definitely veering into uncomfortable territory for me as I could see some small white caps forming. It’s ~1km to cross, so we really powered it to the bay on the other side. I had put on my spray skirt, so I had no issue, but Seth didn’t have his on. This wouldn’t have been a problem, but I accidentally bumped him and almost put him in the water… oops! This was the closest anyone came to a capsize on the trip though, so all in all, it was fine.

We continued up through Call Bight to Portage Cove. Seth took a quick break along the rocks to get his skirt on and we powered up to Portage. This turned out to be the most challenging part of the entire trip. It was definitely windy and while the waves weren’t bad along the shore, it was slow moving through the headwind. I was very excited to pull into Portage Cove and take a proper break, but we were disappointed to learn that Portage Cove is private property and not actually in the park (as we were informed by the numerous trespassing signs).

I know these properties long pre-date the park, but it was a low moment for me. There’s not a lot of pull-outs between Bold Head and Hare Point when you’re taking the southern route and I needed a proper break. Fortunately, the tide was coming down, so we pulled out on a tidal beach for a reset. This proved to be a good idea because I was getting a bit upset and stopping to have a snack and talk things through helped a lot.

We decided to get properly suited up in our wetsuits and come up with a plan for the rest of the day. There’s a longer stretch between Portage Cove and Galley Bay with no beaches, so our plan was for me to lead (as the weaker paddler) and Seth to come right behind. This worked really well for us and we stayed close together throughout the paddle.

It was a bit rough coming out of Portage Cove, but then the wind either dropped down or was sheltered by Zephine Head. I think it was actually the former as it was gusting pretty strong at times, but overall, the sustained wind speed wasn’t too bad. We ended up actually having a nice paddle along the cliffside before stopping in Galley Bay for lunch.

Once we hit Galley Bay I felt much better because we would have the wind at our backs when we turned down Okeover Inlet. We’d started the trip from Lund, but we were planning to finish at the public wharf in Okeover instead to switch up the trip. In fact, we ended up not actually repeating any coastline, which made for a more diverse trip.

As soon as we got around Zephine Head, the wind pretty much died and we had a simple paddle down the inlet to Hare Point. There’s a huge campsite at Hare Point and we landed at the main beach to assess. There’s two key areas to the site, with a bunch of tent pads at the back of the beach and a bunch more along Hare Point. We were the only people there, so we decided on a site along the Point and then paddled back to land on the rocks instead. We kept the same strategy of tying the boats on and letting the tide bring them up for us.

We were joined later in the afternoon by another family of kayakers who camped in the other section of the tent pads, otherwise we didn’t see anyone else. I really liked our site at Hare Point, but the wind was unquestionably getting worse. To be fair, we were on a pretty exposed tent pad, but I ended up guy-lining the tent to the rock for peace of mind and it was the only night we used the fly.

The wind was supposed to be even worse the next day, so we had to do a bit of risk management. I was reassured by the fact that it’s a lot calmer in Okeover Inlet than in the Sound, and that the wind would be at our backs. In case you’re wondering, I use both the Windy App and the weather network for wind information. I usually find Windy to be good, but on this trip the Weather Network was more reliable for wind speed (though the Windy app was still accurate for direction). We’d been planning to get weather updates on our marine radio and via inreach message from Carolyn (who had our trip plan), but there was cell service in pretty much the entire park, so I ended up just using my phone.

What arose as more of a concern as we watched the inlet from our campsite, was the currents. Okeover Inlet is huge, with lots of other inlets branching off it, so with up to 5m of difference between high and low tide, that’s a huge amount of water coming up and down the inlet twice daily. We arrived at Hare Point at slack tide, so we had no trouble getting there, but as the tide changed, the current got quicker and quicker, until it was really clipping down the inlet at a fast pace.

We’d already decided to get up at dawn the following morning to try and get ahead of the wind, and this decision became much more important when we realized that the tide would be switching again at 7:30am. It would be working with us until then and we didn’t want to have to battle it the whole morning.

It ended up working out really well. It was hard crawling out of bed so early, but we were on the water by 6:45am and with the wind at our backs and the current with us, we absolutely flew down the inlet! It was super fun! It’s 10km of paddling back to the public wharf, which would usually take us around 3 hours with breaks, but we ended up doing the whole thing in about 90 minutes. The wind looked pretty intense later in the morning when we returned to Powell River, but we managed to get ahead of it and actually had a very enjoyable paddle.

Our ferry reservation out of Langdale wasn’t until 8pm, but since we’d finished so early, we decided to power back to try and get on an earlier ferry. Unfortunately this didn’t really pan out. BC Ferries was so busy over the long weekend that it actually crashed the website, so we couldn’t check the ferry times and ended up being way out of sync with them. We waited for the ferry at Saltery Bay for the better part of 2 hours. Then we rushed down to Langdale for 2pm, only to be told to keep our 8pm reservation because we probably wouldn’t get on any earlier than that anyways. So we ended up burning 6 hours in Gibsons instead. In hindsight, I would have preferred to spend some more time in Powell River, but you can never know that at the start of the day.

We had a nice time in Gibsons. We explored some shops and enjoyed a pint at Tapworks and a really nice meal at Buono Osteria. We finished with a nice walk along the waterfront. Overall it was a fantastic trip. Seth and I used to do a 3 day paddling trip every year, but we missed 2021 and 2022, so this one was long overdue and a good reminder of how much we enjoy the trips. We do lots of day paddles, but overnight trips definitely have a very different feel. I don’t think we’ll have time to do a second trip this summer (mostly because it’s hard finding someone to watch our dog), but I’m really desperate to do another trip, so we’ve already started brainstorming for next year!

There are lots of things to consider when visiting Desolation Sound, but May turned out to be good timing for us. We’re so lucky to live in a place with so many epic places to explore and I can’t wait until the next trip!